6 months in, still having trouble
Hey guys,
I have been shaving with straights for about 6 months now, and am still having trouble achieving a close, comfortable shave. The smoothest, most pain free shave that I have had is with the first shave from a Feather Super blade. Even with a brand new Feather blade, I can't achieve a bbs in some areas. I will give a summary of different things that I have tried, and hopefully someone can spot where I am going wrong.
My face: I have sensitive skin, coarse facial hair, with the most concentrated growth around upper lip and goatee area. Normal growth direction of facial hair.
Various products tried: Col. Conklin soap, Taylor of Old Bond Street sensitive skin soap, Al's cream, Truefitt & Hill cream, Castle Forbes sensitive skin cream, pre shave oil, & baby moisturizing body wash for pre shave softening. I have also made uber lather with various combos of listed soaps/creams + a few drops of glycerine.
Razors used: Feather, brand new Dovo, mint W&B, Puma.
Techniques: Hot shower for prep or hot towel over lather. I've tried different combos of lather consistency from runny to cool whip thick. I work the lather in for a minute or so with a silvertip badger hair brush. I've tried many different combos of varying pressure/angle, wtg/xtg/atg, skin stretching, scything, etc. I can shave wtg and get a presentable, somewhat comfortable shave over my entire face, but there is still substantial amounts of hair left everywhere except my cheeks. Xtg doesn't pull anywhere except above lip and chin area. Atg stops the blade in it's tracks everywhere except cheeks, and outer neck. Even the brand new Feather blade and first shave on my new Dovo couldn't shave Atg with any angle/pressure combo that I tried. I know that everyone says to stop immediately if you feel tugging, but I have toughed my way through shaves to try and find out what works, and what doesn't. I'm comfortable with the blade, can use both hands to shave, can scythe, coup de maitre, and shave with high angles without cutting myself. I can't however, achieve a smooth shave over my entire face without going through alot of blade tugging, several passes, and an all around uncomfortable shave. I have watched hundreds of YouTube videos, some of guys that get close shaves in one pass, sometimes going atg in areas on the first pass. I have stropped my razors on a pasted strop lightly, up to 75 laps on pressed wool, and up to 150 laps on leather. I have tried blade weight up to light pressure while stropping, and the edges on my shave ready razors look perfect under a 40x loupe, will HHT coarse hair (chest hair) but won't cut hair off of my head (which is pretty fine). I haven't tried to hone any of my razors. Do I need to take them to my 4/8K Norton, or is it something in my procedure that I am doing wrong? I feel that I am pretty good at evaluating cause/effect for things, as I must do it on a daily basis for my job, but this has me stumped. Any advice will be greatly appreciated.