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http://img.tapatalk.com/63ec829b-59e7-1fd8.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/63ec829b-59f9-1449.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/63ec829b-5a01-b103.jpgPicked up an old barber hone today real cheap from a local shop. I'm not sure how practically useful it will be but I loved the packaging.
My question is should I use the same lapping methods for this as my Nortons? Maybe try something a little less aggressive?
Thanks.
Most barber hones are really hard to lap. But if it is dished you'll have to. I use sandpaper on a kitchen worktop.
I recently did mine with a 400 grit diamond plate. It took awhile these old hones are very hard. YMMV
I've used the sandpaper on tile and also just a dmt coarse. the wet/dry paper i think works better if the hone needs lots of work. but if you use a diamond plate use it under water, place the diamond in the bottom of your kitchen sink add a few inches on warm water and with mild pressure begin lapping the hone ... you will be a while most likely.
As long as there are no major chips on the face or other things that might impede proper honing, I wouldn't try to lap it at all. Just a good cleaning with some scotch-brite should be all it needs. It would ruin some barber hones to try and lap them.
I find that you can tell how flat one is by the pattern of the water on it when you hone. If the water spreads out flat and evenly across the surface then your barber hone is flat.
Hey there
I used a Diamond plate, then used finer grit sand paper to get rid of the scratches. A tip ... get a wire brush to clean the barber hone residue from the diamond plate ... it is REAL hard to get off. Do it under running water too to make the process easier. You can get a diamond plate that will lap that barber hone for around £6 from the bay.
Good luck
Carl.
The surface of most barber's hones is very hard. Different grits are attainable by what is used to lap one in the final stage. Some were made and advertised with different grits on each side by using this method. Same stone, different grits! It is easy to see how a barbers hone responds by lapping it with different flatteners. Very interesting! JMHO
I did notice this. After lapping with 320 the hone was VERY aggressive. I could have probably set a bevel with it. I moved up two more progressions to 1200 and it calmed down significantly.Quote:
Originally Posted by sharptonn
As has been stated they are usually so hard and you can easily ruin a good swatty by finishing at a grit more coarse than the swatty is which isn't hard to do as there are few lapping. Media which are that fine. If the current surface is badly pitted however maybe some fine silicone carbide will do the trick.
Received an old pike swaty in the mail today. Tried lapping it with two different grits. Medium and fine , and it does produce a hone with a different front and back texture. Used it tonite on a Larkin that I have, will see how it worked tomorrow AM.
Boy was this a mistake!!! Used the swaty last nite, went over the Larkin this AM before the shave and...(:-( ! Not Good! Had to stop after the 1st pass and redo the razor with my usual Crown Barber hone. Few Crown passes and I was able to finish the shave. Not sure what went wrong but the 2x lapping of the Swaty didn't seem to work.(:-(
Hey there
Have you sanded the hone with fine grit sandpaper? Your hone with change in performance depending on the finish you leave on the surface. Can you see any scratches on the surface?
Carl
Hi used dual hone to do with. I did one side with a ~300 the other ~600. No scratches but surface is not that glossy feel that it initially had. Will try sand paper and see what happens.
Hey yeah now that you have it flat finish it with sand paper from around 600 moving up to at least 1000 grit paper
Carl
Hmmmm
I guess I've been doing it wrong all these years...
First never lap them at all unless there is actual damage that the razors can find
When I do lap them I use a DMT 120 first to remove the damage, then move to my DMT 525 yes that was not an error my 325 is much closer to a 525 now after 100's of Babrber's hones...
I kinda figured that if a 325 grit was good enough for a Shapton 30k it was probably good enough for a ~8k Barber's hone :shrug:
If you want to replicate the old "Fine" finish try a buffer and a CrOx wheel, also running an old razor over then a few times smooths them right up :)
The sarcasm made me smile <3
That is just how I get my best results, If I lap a barber hone I finish them with at least 1k abrasive paper until I can see no scratches.
Can you see scratches from your 525 after you are done with it? Just curious. I suppose it would be a personal preference too.
You have honed more razors than me though!!!
I have seen a ton of people go too really high lapping on more than just the B-hones in fact I used to do it myself and lap out to the 1k.. Then I brought the Shaptons, that made me re-think the whole thing,, Their DGLP is actually 325 grit also, when I realized that they have the highest grit stone (30k proved) right now, and they recommend lapping it on a 325 grit I never looked back after that... I have tried the Nagura/Slurry/High Grit Lapping on just about every Natural and Synthetic you can imagine and in the end I just honestly don't think it makes a bit of difference...
I can tell you the easiest and fastest way to lap most any stone slick is to lap with a Arkansas stone they are so hard that they smooth out anything but the hardest of the hard plus they are dirt cheap to get... I still try slicking up a stone every now and then just to make sure I don't feel I am missing something,,, but so far I just don't think there is... YMMV though
I have yet to own a shapton 30k ... thank's for that information Glen, I am sure the OP will be more than grateful too. I like the Arkansas idea too, I consider myself corrected, I will give it a try ... maybe I am just a gear junkie lol
No no not corrected just a different point of view ain't nothing wrong with going higher, just might not be better either :shrug:
Here is a Shumate B-Hone I just finished doing on the DMT's 120 to get rid of the deep scratches that were on it, then the 325 to smooth it up, I looked at it across the hone and into a light, and even tried looking at the window, to see scratches just like you would do on a blade, and my old eyes can't see anything.. I do finish the lapping with very light figure 8's and I lap these under running water ...
Attachment 94894
That looks great to me, I would definitely be more than happy to use that.
When I used my 325, I have quite deep seated visible scratches ... That's what made me start to use abrasive sheets afterwards because I just wasn't happy. It can clearly be seen that you have a great result with that method, maybe I need to soften up on the old boy when I use it!
I love this forum!
