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I have a couple of brand new razors - the first is a 5/8 Dovo and the second is a 6/8 Fridor.
I assume I should start with pyramids on the 4/8 and then move to my pasted paddle after I can pass the HHT off of the 8.
How many laps does this usually take - I want to avoid overhoning.
I'm going to practice on some e-bay specials before taking the chance of ruining brand new razors, but wanted some info up front.
Thanks guys.
I haven't tried sharpening a new razor, only eBay specials so far. I'd say start off with a conservative pyramid, since the razors probably have a decent bevel already.
It might help to get RadioShack's $10 pocket microscope so you can see in detail what's happening to the edge.
Assuming the razor has a good bevel, an experienced honer would probably need only a couple of conservative pyramids to get a new razor shaving sharp. It's taken me since August to develop some level of skill, though, so I'd definitely suggest starting on a razor you can ruin.
One thing that's really helped put me over the top lately is the realization that all pressure isn't bad. You need a good bit of pressure (twice the weight of the blade) in the early stages of the pyramid, then right at the end you ease off to almost no pressure.
I found that the razor needs to pass the HHT off the 4K before I can get it to pass on the 8K. You might try doing X patterns on the 4K until it at least snags a hanging hair, then going into your pyramids with some pressure. Ease off for the last couple of 1-5 stages.
Let us know how you're progressing.
Josh
Hi Guys. This is just an opion. Your can spend a lot of money on different things with staight razor shaving. Microscopes are nice, but do you know what your looking for? Before I woud get into all that. Rember, straight razors are for shaving. If you want to test the razor just shave. That will tell you more than any microscope.
That's true, but microscopes will tell you things you can't tell by shaving. Like *why* the edge isn't good.
But there's no need to spring for a scope until you need it, it's mostly a diagnostic tool.
You'll need to figure out how sharp those razors are before you start honing them, don't assume they're nearly shave ready or totally dull, or you're setting yourself up for extra work.
I can't help you with the puma (isit stainless or carbon steel?), but don't be afraid to use pressure on the 4k on the friodur, and don't be afraid to spend lots of zero-pressure laps on the 8k polishing it up. These things are extremely hard, and you have to respect that. Don't worry about destroying them on the hone, if you ever have to take a nick out of one you'll discover a whole new meaning for tedium, you can spend an hour on the 4k with pounds of pressure and take a 7/8 blade all the way to a 55/64.
The microscope is certainly not necessary, but you may find it helpful. An edge can pass the thumbnail and hanging hair tests and still be pretty rough.
For example, even though your honing makes the bevel shiny all the way to the edge, sometimes you need some more work on a coarse stone like the 4K to get rid of microscopic chips in the edge. I had a razor that would slice hanging hairs beautifully in the middle, but the microscope showed that the edge needed to be cleaned up on the heel and toe. Without it I would have been wondering if the spots that failed the test were dull or actually overhoned.
You can definitely get carried away with gear, but for me the $10 was a good investment.
Good luck,
Josh
The Dovo will hone upeasily but the other will take some time.
It usually take me 1.5 hours to hone a razor but up to 3-4 hours if it has hard tempered steel as does the Friodur.
Start with the thumbnail test. Stay with the 4k until it passes the thumbnail test or if you have a microscope until the color and texture of the bevel are uniform for the entire length and width of the bevel and there are no micro nicks in the edge.
Then moe on to the aggressive pyramid starting at 10/5 and work your way down. Test frequently with either/both the thumb pad test and HHT. You can perform a test shave at any point.
The second time through the pyramid start at the 5/5 level. The third time at the 3/5 etc. By the time you have run thru these ( if needed) you will understand the rate of change that occurs with each. Then you can judge where to go from there.
Just my two cents, :)
You can get this scope here:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2179604
Also, I saw a link awhile back to nortons, but I cannot find it for the life of me. I am going to order one in about a week, and the cheapest I have found was 74.99 before shipping using froogle. Is there a cheaper place to get them?
Maybe the price has gone up but about a year and a half ago I got mine a classic shaving about $68.00.
Also I would check out edmunds scientific for scopes. They have a wide variety at all price ranges. Just google them.
That's one of the places that has them for 74.99. Man. :/
At the most, try a 5-5, 3-3, 1-3, 1-5 on the Norton 4K-8k and then your pasted strop, strop on the leather strop and test shave. If not perfect, but close, try 1-3,1-5, strop and shave again. Paste is up to you. No more than .5. If not good, let us know what the shave feels like, either pulling or gliding and no hair removal and we can go from there.
Lynn
The first thing you need to do with a new razor is evaluate it. It makes no sense to just jump into pyramids or whatever. It's not likely, but the razor may require little or no honing.Quote:
Originally Posted by suzuki
So the first thing I would do is a sharpness test, whichever you like. Try cutting forearm hair. If it's almost there or even part way there, you only need to do a little work on the 8K, tetsing frequenly so you can se what's going on. If it doesn't cut, try the thumbnail test to determine the state of the edge. See the discussion at classicshaving.com, the section "how to ... and why", where it talks about honing. What you do will be determined by the result. Most likely, the edge will be just a little dull. At that point you can start honing. You might try something like conservative pyramid, tetsing frequently, because you reall don't knowhat to expect.
As far as testing goes you should never do the thumnail test first, because you'll dell a razor that's already reasonably close. Also that test should never be repeated after it's passed. At that point you should do only sharpness testinting.
http://www.vintagebladesllc.com/vsho...me.php?cat=115Quote:
Originally Posted by TomlinAS
$69.99 @ Vintage Blades, plus the prop. there, Jim Ayers, is a member here.
I usually just do a few light passes on the coticule...did that with my TI and it came out scary sharp.