Advice for Total Beginner

Hey guys, I'm 24 here, and I'm ready to take the plunge and try shaving straight. Here's my situation. As a teenager (i.e. when I didn't have all that much to shave), I didn't have much problem shaving with a standard cartridge blade, and did so most days of the week. Starting around age 18 however, shaving grew much more problematic. I'd get ingrown hairs almost every time, leaving me with bumps and redness up and down my neck and jawline. It got so bad that, for the past 2 years or so, I've pretty much stopped shaving altogether, just using a stubble trimmer on the lowest setting. While I don't mind the slightly scruffy look, it's really been going on too long now and I need a way to shave on closer to a daily basis. (I'm white, but my hair is rather think and dense, which probably explains the ingrown problem.)

Basically, as far as razors what should I buy? I'm patient and good with my hands, and don't mind learning. Time, also, is not a huge issue, as I'm willing to put aside time when I won't be rushed. I was thinking of DE, maybe a Merkur, but browsing this forum now maybe I should just get a SE? Thanks.

HI and welcome to the forum,
I started with a set of latigo strop and 5/8 Dovo with ebony scales.
I can't remember what brush I started with, I think it was cheap Omega badger hair from Amazon. My cream was Proraso.

The razor of choice really doe snot matter at this point of the game as you have no experience and do not know what kind of blade will you like eventually. So 5/8 or 6/8 hollow ground is a good choice as long as it is shave ready.
In this stage of the hobby you will have the most issue with stropping and possibly angle of attack of the hairs, both take practice to learn, how long depends on the individual. It is very important to learn proper stropping as improper technique will mess up the edge.

+1 It will take sometime to learn what you prefer.




notice the blue tag under Mainaman's username? The one that says MENTOR. Those that carry that moniker are recognized as being knowledgeable and helpful. PM him to learn all the "secrets of the guild".

Start by doing your homework read the Wiki and this http://straightrazorpalace.com/begin...ead-first.html

and this

http://straightrazorpalace.com/begin...zor-place.html

and this


http://straightrazorpalace.com/begin...icipation.html


Welcome to the forum we are glad you found us and we look forward to sharing your successes and failures as you journey along the straight razor adventure.

WE LOVE PHOTOS

Thanks for the replies guys. What about just what razor to buy (SE or DE and which ones specifically)? I'll be needing that obviously.

Do you want to learn a Straight razor, or Double Edge razor? I would suggest that your preference is going to be the deciding factor.

DEs probably have a shallower learning curve, and (at least one friend reports) it is faster...though I feel like I am getting pretty fast with my Straight.

I know little about DEs, but straights...I would suggest that anything you find on the sites hosted by the sponsors is going to be pretty good quality. Take a look and see what appeals to you visually, then come back and ask about it. Guys will tell you the pros and cons of anything (for example, square points or spikes are fantastic for sculpting work, but that sharp angular toe can bite you pretty quickly...so beginners might prefer a round toe).

There is much to learn...and as expensive as it sounds, do not try to over burden yourself with selecting the PERFECT razor right out of the gate, because as you learn, you will likely evolve in your wants, tastes, and needs...and eventually buy another one (or 12 :D).

Have fun, and jump on in. There are many ways to start cheap...used/vintage is a GREAT way to do this, but perhaps the MOST important thing is to make sure that whatever you get is TRULY well honed and SHAVE READY.


C'mon in the water is nice....and deep;)

For a newbie I recommend a 6/8. The wider blade allows for better control on the strop and on the face.

Buy this razor




Vintage Henckles High Carbon 15/16 Full Hollow Straight Razor - Straight Razor Place Classifieds

Alba, kudos for jumping in.

Alot of us, including myself, obsess about our first blade, wanting to make a 'right' decision and imagine it'll be the blade we'll pass on to our grandchildren. As Mainaman says, without a reference - you don't have enough context to know that that 'right' decision is - for now. Sizes, grinds, steels - they all can feel quite different. Though you'll want your own blade, I would suggest keeping the price humble for now so your funds are available for a 2nd blade (very handy when you need to send one out for honing), or after you settle on a blade(s) you find you really like. A very high quality shaver doesn't have to be expensive - just quality steel with a professional quality edge. I'm thinking the quality/attributes of the edge are more important than a particular maker/size/grind. You'll have your hands full with learning your facial topography in detail, and then learning all the stretches, strokes & facial contortions that allow you to comfortably get each section smooth.

The only *general* thoughts I talk about w/ a new shaver's selection of blade is about density/toughness of beard, sensitivity of your skin (least important imho), and the size of your hands. The beard of steel can be easily shaved w/ a super thin, flexible extra hollow. That doesn't mean that's the easiest blade to learn with. Many guys do just fine w/ a full hollow, but some find the flex a challenge while learning. Those who have trouble w/ blade flex (I did), might find the heavier grinds easier to learn with. They're a bit more forgiving on using pressure (but don't get into the habit), but will perform beautifully with no pressure at all. I've found the heavier grinds a little more gentle on the skin if there's any irritation. Hand size: if you take a glove size larger than 'L' (such as XL or XXL), the shanks on the 5/8 and smaller can be less comfortable to grip and articulate comfortably. This would favor the 6/8 or larger. Though not a hard and fast rule, many makers use a larger blank, starting at 6/8. Larger hands, larger shank - a bit more comfortable to use. Remember many of the vintage blades (1900-1930) were aimed at the avg. man. The avg WWI soldier was 5'3" tall. Smaller guys, smaller hands, smaller razors.

There's no location on your profile, but if you could find experienced guys that would allow you to try some of their gear - it would give you alot of experience with what feels best to you. Should your path wind near the Portland, OR area - hollar. Come try my gear. I have most sizes and grinds. I just don't have a sheffield, 'cause my face won't make peace w/ the feel of the shave.

You'll be amazed at how something that sharp can feel so gentle against your face. Its also quite unforgiving in most cases, but you'll get the technique down and soon have the best shaves of your life. 2nd best isn't close enough to attract my interest.

Have fun, Alba

Hi Albatrosspro,

As a fellow new guy who just took the plunge, welcome to the site! I jumped in with:
Vulfix Pure Badger Brush
Ogallala Bay Rum Soap (The Sage & Cedar lathers very nicely once you get some practise and I think it smells quite nice as well)
Dovo Shavette with black blades (close to the length of a straight)
A lathering bowl
Alum block
Body Shop aftershave (the one thats not really scented)

Its been pretty smooth sailing so far, a few cuts and nicks here and there but the blades are sharp and do not hurt too much. The alum seems to clear up the smaller cuts and nicks very well. I found the hardest part of adjustment to be working with the mirror and getting my grips sorted out but after 2 shaves that felt much better and by the 3rd it didnt feel like much of an issue.

One tip I would give is to start the razor at a 0*degree and then slowly raise to 30*degree for your cut. If you are below 30 with a pass that is with the grain you may only slightly cut or just move out the lather but at least its safer than putting the razor on your face and then just going for it. I've also noticed that my skin can stand up to some "oh shit" moments and that the blade & skin will let you know when its in danger of being cut (but not all the time!)






I found these lathering guides to be useful
http://badgerandblade.com/vb/showthread.php/21136 and
http://badgerandblade.com/vb/showthr...28#post2141228
Sorry for posting another forum but I found the photos to be really really really useful and more than I could find at SRP

And here are some youtube videos that I found useful as well:

How To Build And Apply Traditional Shaving Lather - YouTube
Barbershop Shave Prep - YouTube
PARKER SHAVETTE FOLDING RAZOR SHAVE: TOSS YOUR MULTI BLADE CARTRIDGE Go "OLD SKOOL" w/ Your Shaving! - YouTube


and some other links
Sharpologist.com: Mantic59's wet shaving, grooming guide and more
Geofatboy's Shaving Blog

OK after 10 minutes on amazon here's what I got:

Taylor of Old Bond Street Sandalwood Shaving Cream Bowl, 5.3-Ounce
Tweezerman Men's Shaving Brush
Parker SR1 Stainless Steel Straight Edge Razor and 5 Shark Super Stainless blades

I'm a bit confused on the whole stropping thing... this razor comes with blades that are replaced pretty frequently (I believe), and stropping is basically sharpening right, so is this necessary? Some clarify for me please

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Albatrosspro

Thanks again... do I need to worry about getting a safety razor? Is a safety razor really that helpful for beginners?

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I went from shaving with a Gillette Fusion to that Dovo Shavette, another buddy did the switch and picked up a safety razor.

The only difference between the two is that I have had more cuts (that heal quickly, within a few hours, and he has only had 2 or 3 minor cuts) and he still wants to switch to a straight eventually and is using the safety razor as a stepping stone.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Albatrosspro

OK after 10 minutes on amazon here's what I got:

Taylor of Old Bond Street Sandalwood Shaving Cream Bowl, 5.3-Ounce
Tweezerman Men's Shaving Brush
Parker SR1 Stainless Steel Straight Edge Razor and 5 Shark Super Stainless blades

I'm a bit confused on the whole stropping thing... this razor comes with blades that are replaced pretty frequently (I believe), and stropping is basically sharpening right, so is this necessary? Some clarify for me please

---

I would go for the Dovo Shavette, same idea with the replaceable blades but you have more options as to blade type when you change out the red insert for the black (or green if anyone has them in stock ever). Make sure you get a black insert (not 100% sure if the shavette comes with one, I ended up with 2 so mine came with one or west coast shaving accidentley gave me 2 inserts) and the long blades for the black insert along with some standard size DE blades for the red (should be useful later on for some touchups and bear shaping since the blade is smaller if you're going that route).

Since you are using a disposable blade system there is no need for honing or stropping, but keep in mind that others say that this method of shaving is harsher and less forgiving on the skin.

I'll be the odd man out . . .

Get a good soap and a brush. Learn to make lather. Use some kind of moisturizer (or glycerine, or oil, or Astroglide, or hair conditioner) as a pre-shave treatment.

Ignore straight razors and Shavettes.

Get a good double-edge razor (Merkur 34c, Edwin Jagger DE89, or a "middle-of-the-road" vintage razor like a Gillette Tech or one of the Gillette adjustables).

Get a "blade sampler" -- a package of assorted blades for the DE.

Then, learn to use the DE. It's not quite the same as a cartridge razor -- you'll need extremely light pressure, but it will cut off a beard effectively.

Don't do any fancy passes -- just "with-the-grain" shaving. Which means you'll have to figure out how your beard grows.

See if that combination helps your skin condition.

If it does, you might want to try a straight razor (or replaceable-blade straight like the Shavette or Parker) and see if that's even better.

. . Charles

The Parker (I had one) is a replaceable blade razor so the blade feels different than a straight. Also the cutting area is narrower, and you do not strop this one, just change the blade. It helped me learn some of the moves, but nothing like a straight.
My first blade was a Dovo Best Quality from Straight Razor Designs. I recommend a professionally honed blade like this for your first one. SRD also gives you a free honing when you buy a straight. If you want something more economical Whipped Dog Straights has the sight unseen deal, a shave ready vintage blade. The service is great. When you buy the straight, I recommend get a strop also. Theres a lot of information in this site it helped me a lot so browse every day and you always learn.

As mentioned in previous posts, it is a good idea to get a good badger brush and shave soap (or cream). Learn to lather. You won't get great shave results without a good lather.

I think that a DE safety razor is a good start. I was using a Mach 3 razor before I switched to a DE a several years back. I got a Merkur "Classic" 33C and tried different DE blades. Over a year ago someone gave me an old Gilllette Adjustable DE razor and I loved it. With an adjustable DE razor, you can adjust the angle of different DE blades to match your shave style. I would recommend an adjustable DE if you want to try DE shaving.

Last month I jump on the SR wagon and got myself a Parker SR1 razor. This is a shavette, not a SR. I was able to use my existing DE blades on it. Just snap a DE blade in half, while it is in its wrapper, and carefully insert the blade into the razor. I find that it is a good, cheap way to learn SR shaving. I'm getting the hang of it and keeping my shave angle in check. There's no need for stropping since you are using a new blade. Stropping is for SR razors.

I' m slowly moving to a regular SR. Recently I purchased a vintage J.A. Henckels SR on eBay. I just have to polish it up a bit, maybe hoan it, and then strop it. I also ordered a regular, inexpensive strop and Norton stones for practice. I'm getting there.

I found that moving to an SR shave slowly (i.e., Mach 3 --> DE --> Shavette --> SR) helps me appreciate it more.