Big newb making the big jump

Hi all you straight razor aficionados!

I'm relatively new to straight shaving. I have been doing it for the past 2 months and I feel like I have gotten as far as I can with what I know.
Currently using the Dovo Solingen Black Classic 5/8 and only going WTG and XTG. However, I feel the blade is very dull and not as sharp as a cartridge razor - not had a single nick even with force applied.

If I don't go ATG, I never get a clean shave as there is a lot of stubble left. Going ATG is very difficult as it feels the blade is going right over the hairs and not cutting; giving me the impression it is not sharp enough. It feels tuggy, and dry whenever I attempt ATG.

Naively, I recently switched to DE shaving which I found to be wickedly sharp. I never had so many cuts from anything like it.

In conclusion, I did some research after my first DE shave and read some articles on SRP.
I think my shave-ready razor was probably not honed enough. I'm using the Dovo Solingen Two Sided Strop (Leather & Canvas).

I'm planning a return to straight shaving armed with more knowledge this time around! Hence why I am here! :)

- atomicnewbie

Welcome to the forum.

From your post I fear you got in the bad habit of to much pressure due to trying for a closer shave. Then switched things up and that bad habit bit you.

For the time being search for a good guide to DE shaving. The basics that I have picked up is least angle, least aggressive setting, good beard prep, and absolutely no pressure. Then send your straight to one of the pros listed in the classifieds, when you get it back don't strop before your first shave as bad stropping can degrade the edge.

Good luck

Jonathan

Thanks for the feedback Jonathan.
I completely agree that I'm used to applying a lot of pressure when shaving with my Mach3 cartridge or straight razor.
I will send my straight to a professional and hopefully it will fix the sharpness.

In the meantime I will have to be less impatient with the DE. I even cut my finger quite badly while fiddling with the adjustable angle with wet hands.
Very very sharp DE blades from Merkur.

I also find DE's much harder to control than a straight. There is not much freedom in choosing the angle, and not enough tactile feedback in my experience.
It may have something to do with the weight of the DE I'm guessing.

I'm afraid that I can't help much more because I went from full beard to clean shaven with a straight. :)

Take a look through the threads and guides to face mapping and stretching. Depending on how your hair grows you may have trouble due to the hair laying flat to the skin like mine does under my jawline. I usually just do my best to stretch the skin and live with some stubble. I still look a lot better than with a cartridge.

Jonathan

Send off that Dovo straight away for a new edge.

A couple of blind suggestions:

Take proper steps during your pre-shave to prepare your face and soften your beard;
Make good lather;
Don't let your lather dry out on your face;
Pay attention to direction that your beard grows for your WTG pass;
LIGHT pressure with the blade;
Pay attention to the angle of your blade.

Read the Wiki, watch the videos, and ask questions, the brain trust on this site is incredible!

Good luck and come back often . . . :gl:

Try this, I have used a DE on and off for about 2 years now. Set the head on your face, lay the handle flat, now use enough of an angle that you can slide your thumb between the handle and your cheek, that should set the angle for cutting. When you start your stroke don't push down, as you have obviously found. Think of trying to run the razor head, not just the blade across a piece of paper without cutting through it. The weight of the head will give your momentum, all you want to do is "guide" it in the direction you want it. If you go against the grain I wrap my index finger just to the knuckle around the handle so your finger is on the outside, now lightly touch your thumb pad to the handle just under the head so your thumb is just slightly off your neck then just follow the countour of your neck. On your cheeks just reverse the grip ( thumb out, finger next to cheeks. You may find a grip you like better, but it should give you an idea on how to start tinkering.

Fully agree with above comments. I think I read it on the forum to think of pressure as using just enough to remove the lather. The edge ( properly honed and stropped) will do the work. Adding pressure gets you plenty of posts for the Cut of the Day thread!

Starting with a dull blade may have introduced bad habits. When you get it back from being honed, start over as a rookie and get the right skills down. Your face will thank you for it.

Welcome to the forum and good luck with your shaves. Just a note, that DEs, once you have your technique down, are fantastic and provide great and fast shaves.

@Datsots - My hair sticks to my skin quite stubbornly too. I'm never sure if sometimes it's just hair under the skin when I look under the mirror. I try to eliminate all traces of black (my hair colour) when going for BBS; maybe BBS doesn't necessarily look hairless?

@Eekspa - Thanks for the tips

@tiddle - Thanks for the detailed advice on getting a good DE grip. I'll try it after all the cuts on my face have healed

@SixNipples - I know everyone says to only use pressure enough to remove the lather, but my hairs stick to my skin at a very sharp angle. In addition, it feels very sticky when I make a pass (usually a 2nd pass is not possible without more lather). Often the head of the DE razor sticks to the lather on my skin - making it feel like I'm dragging the DE across sticky tape. I have never really felt the DE Razor ever 'glide' even when going WTG.


I should also add that I am using the Merkur Futur. I'm finding the comb is scraping a lot of lather and not leaving enough behind for the blade. Is this normal for you guys? Do you use open combs instead?

I think we would be better able to help if you were to describe your beard prep. Different DE blades may help a little. Also you should read up on skin stretching and beard prep. I prefer to keep my beard prep simple I just face lather, strop, refresh the lather if necessary, and proceed with shaving.

As I understand it BBS is a feeling more than a look. I only aim for an all over DFS but usually get a BBS on my non trouble areas.

Keep at it and you will get it.

Jonathan

@atomic

I'm sorry. I have not used a DE so I am not sure how to best advise you. My advice was based on using a straight.

This site might help: http://sharpologist.com/
Great videos and advice on all aspects of wet shaving.

DE shaving is exactly the same as straight in terms of prep, lather and post shave. The difference is the tool used for beard reduction (reduce the beard on each pass, not all at once). The angle of the blade is set by the DE razor you are using and it really cannot be adjusted (too shallow it doesn't cut well, too high and you chop your face up). The razor you are using is very aggressive. I sold mine. Even set on 0, I had trouble with cuts. It is not a DE I would recommend to new shavers. If you are interested in using a DE, I would start with a less aggressive razor such as, Merkur open comb (they are all the same head), Merkur 34C, and if you want an adjustable, the Merkur Progress. Always start using an adjustable at the lowest setting and increase it as you gain experience. DE razors come in all varieties and are a field in themselves. Merkur blades are not generally well regarded. They don't cut well and promote using pressure on the razor. As a general statement, the sharpest DE blades are sharper than a straight. A Feather DE blade in an aggressive razor will peel you face off (this is not an exaggeration). Straight shaving is actually safer IMO than some combinations of DE blades and razors.

The key here is that both tools require you to learn different techniques for their use. Some things are in common like not using any pressure, and getting familiar with the beard growth on your face. In either case, as your technique improves, you will find the best tool (DE razor and blade combo, or straight) to give you a fine shave. Also, remember, every face and beard is unique and the quality of shave you can expect is not "perfect" but perfect for you. Good luck.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by atomicnewbie

1. @Datsots - My hair sticks to my skin quite stubbornly too. I'm never sure if sometimes it's just hair under the skin when I look under the mirror. I try to eliminate all traces of black (my hair colour) when going for BBS; maybe BBS doesn't necessarily look hairless?
. . .
. . .
2. @SixNipples - I know everyone says to only use pressure enough to remove the lather, but my hairs stick to my skin at a very sharp angle. In addition, it feels very sticky when I make a pass (usually a 2nd pass is not possible without more lather). Often the head of the DE razor sticks to the lather on my skin - making it feel like I'm dragging the DE across sticky tape. I have never really felt the DE Razor ever 'glide' even when going WTG.

3. I should also add that I am using the Merkur Futur. I'm finding the comb is scraping a lot of lather and not leaving enough behind for the blade. Is this normal for you guys? Do you use open combs instead?

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PMFJI --


1. You're right -- "BBS" is "baby-butt-smooth", not "hairless". If you can run your hand in any direction, and your face feels smooth, that's BBS.

If you're trying to shave closer than that, you'll just get frustrated and have bad cuts and razor burn.

2. You need better lather. And you need to re-lather between passes! Don't try to shave dry, bare skin, ever.

3. (a) You need better lather -- maybe wetter lather. (b) the Futur is a nasty aggressive razor. It seems that Futur "0" is about equal to a normal DE. If you're using the Futur at higher settings, that could be the cause of a host of problems.

If _fresh_ lather feels like sticky tape, you need more water in the mix. If _old_ lather feels like sticky tape, put on some fresh lather before doing another pass.

There's nothing wrong with saying, halfway through a shave:

. . . "This lather on my face is dried out! I need fresh lather."

. Charles