Enjoying my shaves so far, but...

I received a package deal from Straight Razor Designs for my birthday from my wife (Dovo Master's 6/8,3" Black Latigo Strop, Simpson Beaufort B4 Badger, and SRD Unscented Soap) and have been taking my time as suggested adding one more part of my face each day. Tomorrow will be my third day of shaving my full face (WTG only) and I'm enjoying it but had a few questions.

1. Over the past couple of days I have noticed an extra shiny area in the middle of the edge between toe and heel. I thought it was possibly a slight rolled edge but I'm not sure and stropping doesn't seem to change the glint at all. What is this and how can I fix it if its a problem?

2. My cheeks have progressively gotten a better and closer shave day by day. My chin and jawline don't seem to be very close though. I've been trying to continue unconcerned as my cheeks started kinda the same way and I believe my technique probably just needs to improve. Is that likely or should I be concerned?

3. I have always needed to do a WTG and then ATG shave with the cheapo Bics that I have always used. Skipping out on the ATG would always result in a sub par shave as would using any sort of store bought shaving cream/gel. I haven't begun trying an ATG shave with my straight razor yet. Could this be part of my problem with Question 2? Is the soap lather going to cause me a problem? Is there anything else I should be doing to soften up by beard and face to make for a better shave?

4. I have also considered trying a second WTG pass instead of adding an ATG pass. Is this recommended or should I just move straight to an ATG pass?

5. There is a slight pull or roughness to the stroke of the razor at almost all times. This seems normal to me as its always been the case for me when shaving. It doesn't hurt and I have only had a couple of minor nicks over the past week+, and no razor burn to really speak of. Just making sure that this is normal, as I have read multiple posts about the smoothness of others shaving experiences. Again its slight and not really concerning to me but wanted to make sure I wasn't doing something wrong and didn't know it.

Routine (for reference): (Soak Brush, Strop Razor, Shower with Conditioner on beard, Dry Off except for face, Lather, Shave WTG rinsing razor and wiping clean regularly, clean up and let everything dry, and use Stetson aftershave)

Thank you,
Nic

I'm fairly new to SR shaving but, I think with point #2, this will likely improve with technique. Are you pulling your skin taught during the shave?

I've noticed I actually get quite a bit of my under-jawline by pulling the skin up towards my sideburns/cheekbone. This is what I have used to get my cheeks fairly smooth without a second pass as mine are slightly concave. I also go straight to ATG for cheeks - but my hair grows in very bizarre directions; on my right cheek it grows towards my right ear, and the opposite direction on my left cheek. So when my shave stroke goes over my cheek from top to bottom, I'm shaving ATG. If I go from front to back, I'm shaving XTG on my left cheek, and WTG on my right.

For #1, a picture would help a lot. It may not be anything of importance, but not possible to tell from description.

For #2, 3 +1 with m4dm4n. You have to map out beard growth patterns on your face and neck and then you will have a better idea of what to do.

For #4 It is a way to shave that some find works for them. You can only try it and see. ATG passes are tricky and strategy can depend on the razor you use. I have been told to keep the angle for ATG passes low. Cuts and stutter and irritation are cured by good technique. I am still working on ATG. Very tricky. There are places (upper lip) I won't even try.

For #5 Roughness is a function of the sharpness of the blade and you choosing the proper angle of the blade. Practice is all one can do. Go slow, take small strokes and think about what you're trying to do.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Targul

I received a package deal from Straight Razor Designs for my birthday from my wife (Dovo Master's 6/8,3" Black Latigo Strop, Simpson Beaufort B4 Badger, and SRD Unscented Soap) and have been taking my time as suggested adding one more part of my face each day. Tomorrow will be my third day of shaving my full face (WTG only) and I'm enjoying it but had a few questions.

1. Over the past couple of days I have noticed an extra shiny area in the middle of the edge between toe and heel. I thought it was possibly a slight rolled edge but I'm not sure and stropping doesn't seem to change the glint at all. What is this and how can I fix it if its a problem?

2. My cheeks have progressively gotten a better and closer shave day by day. My chin and jawline don't seem to be very close though. I've been trying to continue unconcerned as my cheeks started kinda the same way and I believe my technique probably just needs to improve. Is that likely or should I be concerned?

3. I have always needed to do a WTG and then ATG shave with the cheapo Bics that I have always used. Skipping out on the ATG would always result in a sub par shave as would using any sort of store bought shaving cream/gel. I haven't begun trying an ATG shave with my straight razor yet. Could this be part of my problem with Question 2? Is the soap lather going to cause me a problem? Is there anything else I should be doing to soften up by beard and face to make for a better shave?

4. I have also considered trying a second WTG pass instead of adding an ATG pass. Is this recommended or should I just move straight to an ATG pass?

5. There is a slight pull or roughness to the stroke of the razor at almost all times. This seems normal to me as its always been the case for me when shaving. It doesn't hurt and I have only had a couple of minor nicks over the past week+, and no razor burn to really speak of. Just making sure that this is normal, as I have read multiple posts about the smoothness of others shaving experiences. Again its slight and not really concerning to me but wanted to make sure I wasn't doing something wrong and didn't know it.

Routine (for reference): (Soak Brush, Strop Razor, Shower with Conditioner on beard, Dry Off except for face, Lather, Shave WTG rinsing razor and wiping clean regularly, clean up and let everything dry, and use Stetson aftershave)

Thank you,
Nic

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1. Rolling the edge is a possibility but I would rule out technique being the problem before trying to do anything about it like honing. If you are getting a comfortable shave then its probably not the issue.

2 Your chin and jawline are the hardest parts to master. Try stretching, checking the growth pattern, and play with the angle of the blade in these areas. I have noticed that these areas take several different blade angles to get the job done.

3. After you condition your beard first by massaging hair conditioner into it and letting it sit for a few minutes, try lathering your entire face making sure to really work it in and massage your face. let it sit for several minutes, rinse it off and then reapply more lather to shave with. A pre shave oil can help a lot too.

4. I did two wtg passes before I got the hang of ATG and XTG. Its perfectly fine if it helps reduce your beard

5. Try playing with the angle of your blade. Certain angles will pull and tug more than others. Also you may need more moisture in your lather. Try adding a few drops of water at a time as you shave and see if it gets to the point where it stops pulling. Also splashing water on your face before you reapply lather for another pass helps. Just remember it takes a long time to master this and get the close shaves you keep hearing about. Take baby steps and stick to wtg until you are very comfortable and your muscle memory kicks in. It takes time but its part of the journey. Sounds like you are on the right track to me.

If your "glint" is light shining back at you from the edge, and not the bevel, then that part of the blade has lost its edge at least slightly. If you are experiencing "pulling" or "tugging", that is another negative sign. Improved technique, which you will develop over time, will help, but nothing but sharpening solves the problems a dull edge can create.

Thanks everyone for the feedback! I did 2 WTG passes today and that went very well! I still needed to do a quick pass ATG with a bic to get my face work appropriately shaved but that was mostly for my jawline and chin so pretty happy.

How hard is honing really? I keep reading things about how easy it is to mess up your razor, but I'm not going to send my razor off every couple of months to get honed. Thus am going to have to learn sometime. I assume much like everything else seems to have been, stories are puffed up a bit so that the new guys like me think and slow down before ACTUALLY doing any damage.

Again thank you to everyone that replied your input is very helpful and welcome.

Nic

Its not that honing is hard, it just takes a lot of practice and patience to learn. Your muscles have to get trained to apply equal pressure and get a feel for the stone. It is ALOT of fun and adds a whole new aspect to the world of SR shaving. Watch a ton of videos and use the search function on here and with practice you can learn it in no time. I would suggest getting a second razor to use specifically for honing though. I encourage you to give it a shot. People say to wait and learn the basics of shaving first, but thats just not in my personality. I have to dive right in. It all comes together in the end eventually. Your first order of business would be to make sure you have a professionally honed razor to use as a point of reference as to what you are shooting for.

There is nothing wrong with learning to shave and learning to hone at the same time. I learned the honing first. The problem comes when you try to shave with a blade you are learning to hone on. Get a Shavette or a properly sharpened blade, shave with it and leave it alone while you practice your honing skills on flea market and antique store blades. You shouldn't have to spend more than $10.00 on a blade you are just practicing honing on. I didn't find learning both at the same time confusing at all. Combining the two processes is probably unwise and rough on the face.

I'm like Targul in that I'm loathe to send of my straight every couple of months for sharpening. At £25 a pop for a £60 razor that soon adds up. My Norton 4K/8K cost me £70 & I class it as money well spent in the long run.

I do agree that you need a proper shave ready razor to start so that you have something to compare your results with, & I also think it would help if the razor was still shave ready when you've actually acquired at least some minor skill shaving so you have more knowledge of what it should really be like.

The sum of my honing experience has been a touch up on the 8K side to bring the edge back, which I feel it did & that wasn't difficult at all, but maybe I just lucked out. I suspect anything greater than a touch up would be put me out of my depth though.

I have a 12K stone and a barber's hone. I use the 12K when the blade cannot be made shave ready with the barber's hone (about every 2-3 months). Unless you damage the blade or mess up the bevel, I don't see the need to send it out to a professional any more often than once every year or two. Maybe never if the blade is cutting the way you want. Proper stropping and a 12K or higher hone will be enough to keep the blade shave ready.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Targul

1. Over the past couple of days I have noticed an extra shiny area in the middle of the edge between toe and heel. I thought it was possibly a slight rolled edge but I'm not sure and stropping doesn't seem to change the glint at all. What is this and how can I fix it if its a problem?



Thank you,
Nic

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If the razor is still shaving like it was when you first got it , I think you can safely assume that there is nothing wrong with the edge .

I can assure you the shaves will get better and before you know it, your face will be smoother after a shave then when you used the bic.

Try going across the grain for your second pass. You will be surprised how close a shave you will get. Watch some videos on youtube and you'll see the technique. Also, try going against the grain on your sideburns. That's probably the easiest place to try. Take a low angle, with the blade almost flat on your face, and adjust from there. Use very little pressure.

As you get more comfortable with the straight, you will be going against the grain anywhere you please on your face.

Your soap will provide better glide, lubrication, and cusion than anything you can get from a can.

I wish you the best. It won't be long before your skills improve significantly.