New need a question answered on when to start honing?

Hi,
So I am new to SR world I was given a Gold dollar razor:gaah: as a gift after I commented how I liked the way my barber did my line ups with a shavette. I found this web site and started to read about the MANY SR and noticed Gold dollar is not a recommended brand. So I bought a DOVO shavette for now and I ordered a DOVO $114.00 SR and a $40.00 strop. My next one will be a BOKER since I have fallen in love with the art of SR and the better shave I get keep in mind that was with a Gold dollar so I can only imagen what the real deal will be like (DROOL;))!!!

SO my question is how long should it be before I even need my first HONE and how often do I need it to be HONED I shave about every 2-3 days. I know its recommended to send it out to get it done which I will the first 2x BUT I would like to learn to HONE my own and save the shipping fees and price to have it done.

Would a 8k stone be all I need? to keep it sharp?

So I figured I use the GOLD DOLLAR to learn how to HONE. I know to strop before every shave about 60 strokes the night before I want to shave. I want to learn all this so I can pass this to my 5rd old son when he is old enough to shave and start a tradition. THANK YOU!!!!!!!

I've heard close to six months or as soon as your razor starts pulling your hair. It's one of those "it depends" questions because everyones beard is different...thick, thinner, and number of times you shave per week. I'll go with as soon as your razor starts pulling your hair. Good luck!

Just wanted to add if ur stropping routine is good.u can usually go a decent amount of time. Everyone is different. Treated strops and touch up with them will also delay the time between honings. Quick question is ur razor honed and shave ready? Because u really should get one really shave ready and honed by a member in the member service area so.u know what the razor should feel like.. when the strops stop working its hone time im.also new to.honing not sr shaving.. plenty of great info here on that topic watch videos ask question read forums.. the guys here are great caring people who.will always help.
Good luck.

I ordered a shave ready DOVO and a leather horse strop no linen. I use a basic cow hide strop now. I don't use paste I wasn't to sure about using that I get very mixed thought's on that more negative then positive.

I been reading topics on here for the last month or so I have learned a lot but the honing is confusing and what grit to use I seen 4k and 8k and others say only 8k and only use 12k to 18k so I will be reading as much as I can on honing. I used the GD for a month and have had no tugs or pulls yet but I do strop about 60x if I keep count day before shave. I just don't want to ruin my new SR when I get it. Honing is the most confusing part of all this!! I won't be doing any restoring any SR just keeping it sharp is my main purpose!

Ok i.have a 4/8 Norton which i love.. the pyramid is a step bu step way to hone for anybody it works.. look up pyramid honing. And also.the janorton thread.. great stone cheap and it does it all.. i have good look with diamond spray on a modular strop.. concentration on ur strop laps once u get stropping down give honing a try if u cant get it,have patience it comes i.can.hone.fairly well now.. buy a good back up razor look.in member classifieds for a good price back up i feel the 4/8 Norton can't b beat for.noobs.. once u get into bevel setting u can.do.it with the norton also a 1k just goes quicker.. start with the nortom

My opinion

ok thank you i will look into the 4/8k stone I have seen many comments and that as well. I will look up pyramid and janorton.


Thank you

I think it has been answered here, but the length of time in between hones, will definitely depend on the coarseness of your hair, the previous hone on the razor and a few other factors. What works for me, is to try to dry shave a VERY small patch (just two or three hairs) of arm hair before i use the razor to shave my face. The razor should pop the arm hair off without any irritation. If i get some irritation, then i know i may need to re-hone. If the razor struggles to cut, but eventually does cut the hair I use my Crox strop for a light touch up and try again.

As far as what stones to buy, please pay attention to the manufacturer of your stones. An 8K Norton will finish a blade the same (in my opinion) as a 12K Naniwaa. When you are ready to purchase stones, do your research here and learn what is right for you. One thing that is a must, if you are purchasing a stone is a lapping plate/stone. The lapping plate/stone is used to clean the microscopic metal shaving from your stone and also to ensure your stone is completely flat. If you, like myself, find yourself enamored with this crazy hobby and you'd like to try restoring the edge of a razor, you will need a combination of other stones to get the edge back. I will say with 100% seriousness to consider making your purchases from a known dealer such as SRD to ensure authenticity and quality in your investments.

Good luck and ask all the questions you need.

Calm down there..You've got at least 7 years to figure it out. :p

I suggest a synthetic waterstone of combination grit 3/8 or 4/8 as your first hone.

Read Gssixgun's monthly articles. One of them in the last few months addresses MOST of your questions. Then if you go back to the beginning of when he started it his monthly articles, you'll probably find the answer to almost all the questions a new person might ever think to ask.

If you ask a question on the open forum, and get fifty different opinions, then you'll be just as confused as when you started. I suggest finding a mentor, and asking that person your questions. That way you never subject yourself to multitudinous differing opinions.

The grits and honing stones will all make more sense in time. I remember when I first got my Norton 4/8. I was so glad they put the grit rating on the side because I thought I'd never be able to remember which side was which. As time passes, and you gain experience, all this stuff makes more sense. Take it slow, be methodical, and it will all sort itself out for you.

I never thought of doing that I think I will try that dry cut thank you. Also, I am doing a lot of research before I spend 100 plus bucks on a stone and it being junk. I have been reading lots of post and utube vids on this topic and there is so many opinions out there which makes it so hard.

I just want to shave with a SR strop and hone to keep it sharp LOL but come to find out there is sooo many options I am trying to keep track of all the repeated things I see and lean towards that idea so far I am at DOVO/BOKER SR, horse strop no paste (paste is questionable for me still) and Norton 4/8k stone I have seen this stone come up a lot on SRP and utube vids and google searches VS. these other brands seems like its more of a well rounded stone and will do what I am looking for.

I think I will in time purchase vintage SR to collect and pass on to my son. I know there is so many options' and yes I am starting to get addicted to this SR shaving.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by regularjoe

Calm down there..You've got at least 7 years to figure it out. :p

I suggest a synthetic waterstone of combination grit 3/8 or 4/8 as your first hone.

Read Gssixgun's monthly articles. One of them in the last few months addresses MOST of your questions. Then if you go back to the beginning of when he started it his monthly articles, you'll probably find the answer to almost all the questions a new person might ever think to ask.

If you ask a question on the open forum, and get fifty different opinions, then you'll be just as confused as when you started. I suggest finding a mentor, and asking that person your questions. That way you never subject yourself to multitudinous differing opinions.

The grits and honing stones will all make more sense in time. I remember when I first got my Norton 4/8. I was so glad they put the grit rating on the side because I thought I'd never be able to remember which side was which. As time passes, and you gain experience, all this stuff makes more sense. Take it slow, be methodical, and it will all sort itself out for you.

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LOL thanks I will do that look at the monthly post. there is a lot of good stuff here a lot of info. There is a lot of post on things more advanced then I need to know ATM so I tend stay away from those post until I get up to speed.

As for now I will read the monthly post and I have 1 new shave ready DOVO SR coming next week and should last a while before it needs honing and I will order a new shave ready SR from BOKER as well so I should be ok for sometime. but I want to get as much info and advise before I just jump in and screw things up and get some of my questions confirmed.


Thank you

If you are going to hone up that GD. Read up on correcting the shoulder issue many of the GDs have.

Once that issue is taken care of the gds make good shavers they just don't hold there edges as well as some other brands.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Castel33

If you are going to hone up that GD. Read up on correcting the shoulder issue many of the GDs have.

Once that issue is taken care of the gds make good shavers they just don't hold there edges as well as some other brands.

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No it was a gift I was not as knowledgeable as I am now on SR. It will be my learning blade.

First if you shaved with any straight for ~30 shaves with no tugging or pulling, either it started shave ready or you have no hair where you shaved.:p It sounds like your GD got a post factory honing. Feel free to keep it in rotation with your others. I have 3 GD 66's that all shave fine after honing but would never have shaved me comfortably with the factory edge. They all needed the shoulders reground.

Honing is both simple and complex. It is as simple as rub iron on stone, and as complex as searching for just the right finishing hone to give you the perfect shave. Some have spent hundreds trying various coticles. If all you want to do is keep your pro honed razors shave ready all you need is a finisher. If you want to be able to fix dings and such, get a 4k/8k combo and a finisher. If you want to do all your own honing including bevel setting, get a 1k, 4k/8k, and a finisher. Synthetics are usually easier to learn on.

I'm not one for pastes but they can be used in place of every step of honing. It would not be easy below an 8k equivalent paste.

Jonathan

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Datsots

First if you shaved with any straight for ~30 shaves with no tugging or pulling, either it started shave ready or you have no hair where you shaved.:p It sounds like your GD got a post factory honing. Feel free to keep it in rotation with your others. I have 3 GD 66's that all shave fine after honing but would never have shaved me comfortably with the factory edge. They all needed the shoulders reground.

Honing is both simple and complex. It is as simple as rub iron on stone, and as complex as searching for just the right finishing hone to give you the perfect shave. Some have spent hundreds trying various coticles. If all you want to do is keep your pro honed razors shave ready all you need is a finisher. If you want to be able to fix dings and such, get a 4k/8k combo and a finisher. If you want to do all your own honing including bevel setting, get a 1k, 4k/8k, and a finisher. Synthetics are usually easier to learn on.

I'm not one for pastes but they can be used in place of every step of honing. It would not be easy below an 8k equivalent paste.

Jonathan

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My GD was honed by our barber we go to he did it as a favor I have no complaints on GD it is doing a fine job I just know that it's not a preferred SR and I don't expect it to last 100yrs.

I am not or have not considered a paste. I have been doing just fine with this leather (cow hide) strop with no paste and no linen. I will continue to use this method as I am a novice SR user.

But thank you for the advice I am still far from bevel still LOL still trying to figure out the honing with some nicks and scraped to the face.:shrug: