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I am new to straight razor shaving. I bought a new Dovo razor that was honed by straight razor designs and have been using it with good results for about 2 weeks. How do I determine how much stropping I need. I have been doing 30 fabric 60 leather every day on my strop. I have heard talk of the 'hanging hair test' is this how I know when it is ready to shave? Should I be using pasted strop? All help is appreciated.
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Come back in a week after you read the 1000's of posts :rofl2:
You test a SR the EXACT same way as every other razor you have owned,, When it starts to pull and tug during the shave you need to do something more :p
All the other "Tests" are for people that hone razors, it honestly is that simple
Alternative plan:
There is another path that is a maintenance schedule, which basically uses weekly, bi-weekly or perhaps monthly touch-ups, so that the razor never slips from optimum performance
In my limited experience, stropping will improve the edge quite a bit...if it's not, it's either good or you're stropping wrong. If you test a razor on your arm hair or use a hanging hair test or shave test, you'll see that your sharpness will improve from no stropping to a couple dozen passes correctly stropping. I've taken my blades, unstropped, and started shaving, then stropped 10 on linen, 20 on leather...test shaved again...20 more on leather...test shaved a spot again...etc. I found that there's a point of diminishing returns for my calibrated face and my wife's hair around 40 or so. I continue to read as many posts as I can, do searches constantly and re-read post and re-watch videos. Every once in a while, something clicks. I started out with a SRD honed Boker King Cutter a couple months ago and went through the same thought process. I wouldn't hit a pasted strop for a while. All you should need right now is stropping. Hope this helps.
You've answered your own question as far as sharpness. As far as stropping, I used to do 50 and 50 but I've gotten down to 30/40 and even less sometimes with no depreciation in effectiveness. IMHO, pasted strop is only for when the razor begins to lose the sharp/smooth feel. HHT is fun but the shave is the important thing.Quote:
Originally Posted by nickrich1418
I kinda figured that was the case. Thank you for confirming it for me.Quote:
Originally Posted by JimmyHAD
My short answer is that your razor is sharp enough when it shaves hairs when all you're trying to do is gently squeegee away the lather. That's all the pressure you should use for shaving anyway.
You can develop your own hanging hair test to monitor your own blade... here's a missive I wrote about it for the Wiki.
You have a good excuse for buying another shave-ready razor (a "reference blade," to be used only once a month or so)... in a couple more months, when this one has dulled at its usual imperceptible pace. Barring, of course, sink dings or stropping damage. You'll adapt your shave and expectations a tiny bit each day, and your technique will improve to make up for the declining edge--to the point where good technique doesn't work any more and you try substituting bad technique (like more pressure). That's when a reference blade is priceless, when it can remind you of how good this is really supposed to feel.
Best wishes and happy shaving.
HHT. Be careful. It's not standing in front of the bathroom mirror suspending a hair between your thumb and forefinger and trying to slice it in half with your razor. Remember High School Science and Refraction. Chances are good you'll slice a part of your finger off!!
Read up on how it's done.
I have a small bald patch on my arm where I do my shave test. If it can't shave that, to me it's not sharp enough. After that it's all polish to make it a smooth shave.
Yes, and look through the Cut of the Day thread. I think the most grievous injuries there were suffered by a guy who moved the blade, not the hair. Grievous!Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnus
Your razor is sharp enough when it cuts smoothly, without pulling or sticking or hopping. If it is not doing this it is not sharp enough. You may need to work on your prep. Is your beard stiff and hard before you put the lather on, if so it is the prep you need to work on. From personal experience, only the sharpest replaceable blades (like those used in DEs, SEs or Feather and Kai shavettes) will cut a bunch of stiff hard whiskers and you still might get some resistance. Your beard has to absorb some water and you must figure out how to do this for your face.
Sharp enough.... consider the reverse "when is my razor dull?"
The only good advice I have is to compare it with another blade.
My go-to touch stone is a BiC yellow handle tossable. Out of the
bag they are sharp enough to shave but not sharp and harsh like
a Feather blade. By holding the BiC at the far end of the handle
gently with two fingers I can feel it grab, snag and eventually snip
a whisker. With better shave prep there is less snag and more snip.
When I get my razor honed correctly for my face the grab and snag feeling
is almost gone (depends on grind) and "like butta" comes to mind but is not
quite the case.
If I keep shaving day after day... I hit my limit of tolerability in the grab snag snip
feeling and think of it as grab rip and drag... It is cost effective to wear out
a BiC and explore the dark side of dull not so on a good straight. You want to
strop a good razor lightly each day you use it to get the max life out of the edge.
If you let it get dull by not stropping you will need a touch up hone and styptic.
As for stropping --- I tend to find less is good for me
five or ten on canvas or just skip the canvas and 30-50
smooth licks on leather. The lighter and smoother I strop
the less I seem to need.
As for paste... I see no harm in 0.25 micron diamond or CBN on the canvas
side applied in small amounts over time. I do it and find it improves the
smoothness of my shave.
Paste on the leather side is less desirable. I made a bunch of strops
with nice leather from Tandy. Pasted them, oiled them all sorts of things.
I found that very light strop dressing or oil was all I needed. On one I tried Mink Oil
and found it gummy and the best thing I found to correct the draw was 0.25 micron bits
(a dusting of CeOx dust). If you spray the leather that is fine too just go lightly.
Glenn did a test using submicron spray and found it did no harm after months.
BTW: He is right... come back in a week and read the 1000's of posts.