Printable View
I don't understand how everyone here keeps there razors so clean, I have always wiped my razor down after the shave and wiped any soap scum off the blade before putting it away which has not let me down.
they appear during my shave with proraso lather but if patina forms during the shave how on earth are you keeping your razors spotless?.
I am at a loss now at what should be done to prevent this.
Patina forms because it has a place to start, meaning that parts of your blade are not polished adequately and give the corrosion a place to begin forming. I never see any on mine, but not only do I carefully dry them, I buff them in a stropping motion on a doubled towel to bring back the shine and remove any residue. The residue, however slight, is a place where water can interact with the blade and start corrosion, seen first as patina. If that doesn't work, I would polish the blade using Flitz, Maas or a polishing compound of some sort.
... without damaging the edge, the etching and the fingersQuote:
Originally Posted by ace
If you use a Q-tip then using a polish works very well and you won't hurt the edge. The very edge is handled well by stropping. I have not found a polish to hurt the etching at all. Also oiling the blade after shaving not only prevents rust but helps clean the blade for future use.
This is exactly what I do after use but its only forming during shaving which is puzzling me, I take my time to clean my razor after every use like you said which works well and never saw any patina form since but only during the actual shave, there must be something I am doing wrong?.Quote:
Originally Posted by ace
A truly shining blade won't develop patina because there is no weak or compromised part of it that would allow water or shaving soap to affect it. If it were mine, I would polish it and then use it to see if I could replicate the problem. I would doubt it would persist after a good polishing.
One way to experiment on the blade without having to go through polishing all of it would be to polish a small area with a Q-tip then shave. If that area still develops patina that quickly, then either you have not polished enough or you have a steel issue, and I doubt that. I have over 40 polished razors in my "rotation" and never see this. They are all makes and countries of origin as well.
Many of these spots aren't corrosion. They are hard water spots which can be a real bear to get off and they form very quickly. The color will tell you if they are the corrosion type.
I still believe that the biggest culprit in causing what you are talking about is getting the scales wet when shaving. No matter how hard we try to dry off a razor and particularly with natural scales once the blade is closed, it is almost impossible for some moisture not to end up on the blade. If you just rinse off or wipe off the blade when shaving being careful not to get water in or on the scales, you should not experience that much of this problem.
Have fun.
Thank you for your tips but I rarely get water in pivot or scale area.Quote:
Originally Posted by Lynn
I just say again that it only happens during actual shaving.
Apply lather
Use razor, take tops 15min
Rinse razor well
Dry all parts of razor
wipe razor until all extra soap scum is removed
Boom, new patina spots where soap has been
It must be a extremely reactive blade, my tang is getting tarnished as well but this area is also wiped down.
Cant think what it could be.
This is a Boker king cutter.
I was once told by Robert Williams that "staining" or "patina" is the start of corrosion/rust. I never leave my razors in the bathroom due to humidity. After shaving, I run the blade under very hot water and wipe with tissue. i use a small piece of tissue near the pivot to try and absorb as much of the moisture as I can. I then place the razor in an open position and let it sit until the next time I shave. I also use Renaissance wax on all the blades and this seems to work. Just my 2Cents
Why don't you try shaving with distilled water, see if you'll have the same problem?
If there's a chemical reaction with the steel there's more to it than 'extremely reactive blade', you generally need catalysts.