Need advice restoring an Ever Ready 500 PB

Not sure if any of you recall the poll I had regarding barber poles a little bit ago but this brush handle is the reason for it...
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c6...h/IMG_4404.jpg

I put three coats of Deep Red Testers enamel and just removed the tape for the photo. I need to clean up some of the edges and tape residue but my main question is:

What should I use to seal up the entire brush handle?

My first thoughts were CA, superglue, shellac, spray on clear coat, or two part epoxy. What do you experienced people think? Thanks for any advice/opinions.

p.s. not sure if this is more appropriate in the workshop subforum or right here in the brush subforum.

anyone have a suggestion?

I'm looking for info about a sealant on painted scales. If you don't get the answer you need, you can see if I get some good info.

"are painted scales a good idea?," thread in the workshop.

Let me preface what I'm about to say with the fact that I have never attempted something like this.

I wonder if using two part epoxy would work? I'm turning it around in my head how you'd dip the handle as to put a perfect layer on, but I haven't come up with anything yet. A perfect layer of two part like mirror-coat or something then cut with scratch-x or similar and waxed would be eye popping for sure, just not sure how you'd pull it off.

I thought about the application of two part epoxy and figured if I put a heavy enough coat on when it was fully cured I could sand down and polish it like any other material... but I would just be guessing as I haven't done that before.

I've been thinking about this a lot today. I looked back at some of my copies of Fine Woodworking magazine, and in one Chris Minik, one of the finishing gurus, described using automotive clear coat to protect projects when he decides to paint them instead of using using a varnish or oil finish. He swears by it. I'll have to give it a try some time.

He points out that new car clear coats are formulated for the flexible car panels they use on car bodies these days. They are designed to give without cracking, which makes it perfect for wood, since wood tends to shrink and expand from time to time. Application and polishing seem to be similar to most painting applications. But he says car clear coat polish, like Meguire's, is best for getting a good shine.

It will be a while before I can try this, so if you get to it soon post some pictures so we can see how it turns out.

I'll have to see if they have small amounts available as I am really only needing to do this brush handle right now...

Do you have another one to test on? If not i prob do. No sense in ruining you hard work

I do have another ER brush handle made out of the same cheap plastic/possible bakelite that I could test it on. But I think the automotive clear will work fine without messing up the enamel. I found a couple of sources online that sell it in spray can form that I'm willing to try.

Cool. Test it out on the other brush. I have triend some before and if i remember correctly it will require wet sanding when dry.

I believe Crylon or another one. Trying to remember. Its called Crystal clear. We use it on Rc Heli that use Nitro fuel