Silvertip in African blackwood

After selling my friends, to be, birthday gift at our last meet up, I promised him I would make him a brush to his specs. So he wanted a longer handle, dark wood, with a silvertip knot. So that's exactly what I did. Its a 24mm Gr.A silvertip from TGN set in African blackwood, somewhere around 51/52mm.

The African blackwood is a pleasure to use, and holds very sharp edges when shaping. I took advantage of this and did some sharp edges, mixed with some simplicity, which really makes the wood speak for itself. I'm loving this brush and I'm glad I'll get to see it again. :) Can't wait to turn some of this again soon.


Attachment 142570Attachment 142571Attachment 142572

Classy. I think your friend will be pleased.

Thats very nice indeed,blackwood is a joy to work with for sure.

Wow, that's a nice one!

ELEGANT!
~Richard

That is one sweet brush!

So,,, is it black?

Nice brush.

very nice. I really like blackwood

I'm still in awe of how sharp that african blackwood looks...it's spot on! I'm quite envious of it's owner!

Thanks guys. It's hard giving this one up but my friend getting it deserves a brush like this. He's been a good friend for a long time. I know hes going to love it, especially when he whips up some soap for the first time. :)

Wow
Perfect lines, and as Geezer said "ELEGANT"
Well done!!!!

Clean lines, simple elegant Well done!

Very Very nice! Longer handles have become mandatory for me.
I could really see myself using that! Lovely Work! :tu

I have looked at that brush multiple times and it really started making me think about classic design. You have created a modern classic. I don't think it will ever look dated. An example of the opposite is possibly Jade Ghost G10 scales which for me had a very short shelf life (not that there has not been some nice work with this material). Anyway, beautiful work.

Very nice! Clean and elegant, well done!

As stated elegant and a future classic. I too like longer handles.

It looks like it takes a very fine finish, too. I like a long brush, it gives you more fulcrum as you swirl it over the soap.

Nice work you do.

Very nice. Did you have any problems with the blackwood dulling your tools? I've heard blackwood is very hard. Also, if one may ask, what finish did you use?
Very nice design as others have said better than I could.

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Originally Posted by irish19

Very nice. Did you have any problems with the blackwood dulling your tools? I've heard blackwood is very hard. Also, if one may ask, what finish did you use?
Very nice design as others have said better than I could.

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Blackwood is very hard on tools as it has high silica content.all I use is carbide anymore,One brush, the tool gets sharpend,after Blackwood.

What Pixel said. I use HSS tools, so wood like this dulls the tools after one project. I can get away with refreshing the edge with a slip stone, which works well. But you can only do that maybe twice if your lucky. Then its back to the bench grinder.

The finish is a paste wax that's carnauba wax based. I put it on while its spinning on the lathe and also rub it in the handle with the lathe off, in all directions, to really work it in. I let that sit for 5 or 10 min, lathe goes back on for polishing. I do that all twice. Then, one coat of conservators wax (Ren wax) is then applied to protect from fingerprints and water spots. Then buff that out too.

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Originally Posted by HARRYWALLY

What Pixel said. I use HSS tools, so wood like this dulls the tools after one project. I can get away with refreshing the edge with a slip stone, which works well. But you can only do that maybe twice if your lucky. Then its back to the bench grinder.

The finish is a paste wax that's carnauba wax based. I put it on while its spinning on the lathe and also rub it in the handle with the lathe off, in all directions, to really work it in. I let that sit for 5 or 10 min, lathe goes back on for polishing. I do that all twice. Then, one coat of conservators wax (Ren wax) is then applied to protect from fingerprints and water spots. Then buff that out too.

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Thanks for the info. It's a beautiful, simple finish that doesn't detract from the appearance of the lovely wood. A bad finish would have just destroyed all your fine work.

Well Done! Keep up the great work.

Attachment 145445Thats the beauty of hardwoods,They truley look better highley polished and protected with wax.

So the Ren wax will keep it from water spots & fingerprints, eh. That's good to know. I've been using about five coats of poly over Danish oil, but from what you're saying that might be overkill.

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Originally Posted by irish19

So the Ren wax will keep it from water spots & fingerprints, eh. That's good to know. I've been using about five coats of poly over Danish oil, but from what you're saying that might be overkill.

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Huh, tell me about it!!! I've done lots with poly and also poly over tung oil. Some people really like that look and I'll continue to do some that way. But some woods lose their beauty when you start spraying high gloss poly on them. Steals away some of the beauty in the wood IMO. Its also a pain to get that poly to look just right. Takes a good hand to get the right amount sprayed on without it sagging or running.

I usually brush on the initial coats and then use a final coat of the Minwax wipe-on as it dries quickly enough to minimize dust getting in the finish. Hate dust!!

Look into the long forgotten ways of doing french polishing,Pumice and oil,rottenstone and oil.You will get a glow on hardwoods you cannot duplicate with any plastic finish.

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Originally Posted by pixelfixed

Look into the long forgotten ways of doing french polishing,Pumice and oil,rottenstone and oil.You will get a glow on hardwoods you cannot duplicate with any plastic finish.

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My Cocobolo espresso machine handles are fine after 6 years from using that method. I finished gunstocks for extra money as a kid.
Secret is the use of "real" boiled linseed oil, not chemically processed.
~Richard

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Originally Posted by Geezer

My Cocobolo espresso machine handles are fine after 6 years from using that method. I finished gunstocks for extra money as a kid.
Secret is the use of "real" boiled linseed oil, not chemically processed.
~Richard

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Linseed oil is great stuff to a point.
If you use artist grade Linseed I think you get a better result because it is clear,not yellow.I use winsor and Newton.
Another trick is to cut it with Lighter fluid (naptha) by about 30%,Than you have birchwood casey tru oil.