Craftsman 37" older lathe

Evening gents.
I have a very, very old lathe I was given from my father in law which I finally tried to set up in my growing basement shop.
Alas, it was not working out well as rust had seized the tail stock and the head unit seemed a solid shaft with a live centre and no morse taper or accessory options mounting capability.
I just tonight found this older craftsman 55-4507-2 on kijiji and got it for $60.
No manual or accessories with it but I still have the 8 pcs turning tool set my dear departed father in law gave me years back in their original box. I think those were 5 times the price I paid for the lathe when he purchased them years ago.
this model looks like it can be used over the bed, or on the other side as there is a threaded bolt sticking out of the case that looks like it could hold a face plate.
(under the red cap on the left of the picture)
any help with info on this unit, accessories available, etc, will be appreciated.
i haven't turned wood in 30 years but I am looking forward to picking it up once more.
Cheers.

There's not a tree in the neighborhood safe now,,,,,,,,,,,,:D

Trees, Garden markers, hell even my old upright piano should be scared.. ;-D

Actually, not to jack my own thread but I actually am thinking of chopping up my old piano.
Has anyone ever saved, reused the ivory strips from the piano keys, or used the ebony keys in scale making?
Just thinking of ideas.
Cheers.

i've saved the ivory, they are good for inlays but not big enough for scales. i've never found any real ebony keys though, the ones i have found are always painted black.

As above, the Ivory is great for inlay work.Older Pianos had ebony keys but are to short for scales.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MikeB52

Has anyone ever saved, reused the ivory strips from the piano keys, or used the ebony keys in scale making?
Just thinking of ideas.
Cheers.

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Mike, there were ebony keys, but they are really rare. More often it was an 'ebonised' wood finished with die, shellac or polymer to look like ebony, ebony being so expensive (and heavy).

Ivory keys were used a lot, depending on the age of the piano - pre 1930 and it is usually ivory, post 1930 and its usually an 'ivorene' substitute, veined and marked like real ivory.

A way to tell is to look closely at the top of the key where it is cut around the black key - two bits of ivory were used:

Attachment 180983

This makes the ivory plate even smaller. It also overhangs at the front, which usually results in chips, splits and discolouration. It is also very, very thin because it is cut as a facing material - it is not solid. Not very suitable, in other words!

Regards,
Neil

All pre 1920 Bosendorfers had real Ivory and ebony keys,have restored many of them.

Eh Mike the guy down the street is cutting down a maple with a ton of burl. I'll go hit him up.

Thanks for the info gents.
My keys are the two piece ivories as in your pic Neil, and the piano is a 1920 Doherty so the era is right.
The ebonies may be stained and I will know more when I remove them.
i plan on gutting the sound board and all the metal parts, maybe save the shell for something. Once its lighter it can be repurposed into something else.
a lathe bench maybe,, hehe.
Colin, you grab me some maple burls, there will be a handle or three turned out of the lot for ya! That would be awesome.
Using the ivory strips as partial inlay material might be all I can use them for, but having the stock, even for wedge stock will be cool. The ebony, maybe I can use that bonded with other woods in turning projects.
Thanks again gents.
Attachment 181025
Did grab a few starter pieces while in Cambridge this aft.
:-D

A&M woods Mike? Great place, but I find their stock is low right now. What did you pick up in the way of wood?

A and M it was indeed Andrew. Thanks for the tip about them in the summer.
great spot, smells incredible in there.
I picked up, as seen in the pic from left to right:
sapele, Amboyna burl, tulipwood, and a slice of mottled ebony.
the tulipwood is gorgeous and will probably turn into twosets of one piece scales, the ebony will be practice wood or wedges.
The others have a few turnings in them and will be my first brush handle attempts once I figure out if I need face plates, or different chucks for this lathe.
I hear lee valley calling me now to come look at lathe accessories. The chucks and faceplates I've seen seem to indicate my craftsman is likely a morse1 and is a 1x8tpi thread.
forgot my thread gauge at work so will not be getting much beyond basic set up this weekend. Maybe I can practice on the, as supplied, live centers.
Promised the wife a lovely pen out of the deal, so will be practicing on lots of small pieces, relearning my lathe strokes and such. Been almost 30 years since I've tried my hand at wood turning..
cant wait.
cheers.

I freakin love that place Mike! As you said, the smell!!!! That golden Amboyna is gorgeous stuff. Throw some oil on it when you have it all sanded up and it'll turn a vibrant orange/gold and will make everything pop.

Here's how I use to turn my handles with just a basic face plate, screws and a glue block (scrap wood, 2x4 hunk.) but you can use anything really.

Attachment 181047

Hot glue, or CA with an accelerator works great to bond them. Just make sure both face are really clean. As you see in my pic, once you have it turned, and sanded, just take a parting tool and cut it of, leaving a bit of extra wood. You can do this also on the band sand too, but is a little more tricky. A sharp blade helps. Then just lay some sand paper on a machined flat surface (table saw bed) and sand that extra wood off until it's flat. Back and forth sanding will sometimes create two flat areas due to rocking. If that happens just use a pulling motion instead of a push pull technique.

Hope that helps a bit with your first couple attempts.