Ever-Ready Restore

I am not sure if this is the right place to post this, but, I started doing a restore on a "Every-Ready" or "Ready Set", can't recall the name right now, shaving brush. I cut and drilled some of the hair out but am finding it difficult to be accurate as I don't have a lathe. I am doing things countertop with drill bits and dremel.

Since my goal is not to destroy this handle, I am trying to find if someone could help me finish the job. I know I still need to buy a knot, but of course, I am not sure how big the hole is as I don't have a metric ruler laying around.
I will try to post some pics later.

Thank you in advance for your help, and I apologize if this isn't the proper place or decorum for this posting.

Here you go.

i've done half a dozen of Ever-Ready type brush restores. Could you post pictures of your brush (down the opening and one of the outside)

Im my experience, It's always wise to go one size smaller than the dimension of the hole in the handle. Trying to fit the biggest size knot possible in a handle will result in much frustration. Just an FYI. Like TwistedOak has said, post some pics.

I was wrong on the brand. Not even really sure if worth restoring.
http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h7...psulpjtxk4.jpghttp://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h7...psy2kbuhuh.jpg
http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h7...pswk78kip4.jpg

A handles a handle no matter what the brand stamp is. You're almost there, why not finish the job and put a nice badger knot in there.

Looks like you have more epoxy to get out. Take a drill with a drill bit, 3/16 maybe, and keep drilling deeper in 1/8" increments going deeper and deeper until you see the material change. Then you'll know the depth of the epoxy. Once your that far, do some more holes to that same depth, then try and crack the rest of the epoxy out of there. Worst that happens is you wreck the handle and you'll have some experience for the next one you get.

Measure the badger holes diameter, buy a TGN finest 2 band 2mm smaller than the size measured and epoxy it in there using pennies to get the loft to 48mm. ( You don't have to do it to 48mm loft, that's just where I'd put it at.)

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Originally Posted by HARRYWALLY

A handles a handle no matter what the brand stamp is. You're almost there, why not finish the job and put a nice badger knot in there.

Looks like you have more epoxy to get out. Take a drill with a drill bit, 3/16 maybe, and keep drilling deeper in 1/8" increments going deeper and deeper until you see the material change. Then you'll know the depth of the epoxy. Once your that far, do some more holes to that same depth, then try and crack the rest of the epoxy out of there. Worst that happens is you wreck the handle and you'll have some experience for the next one you get.

Measure the holes diameter, buy a TGN finest 2 band 2mm smaller than the size measured and epoxy it in there using pennies to get the loft to 48mm. ( You don't have to do it to 48mm loft, that's just where I'd put it at.)

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I use the same technique to get the right loft, and add some heft.

Nice handle,is doable.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by HARRYWALLY

A handles a handle no matter what the brand stamp is. You're almost there, why not finish the job and put a nice badger knot in there.

Looks like you have more epoxy to get out. Take a drill with a drill bit, 3/16 maybe, and keep drilling deeper in 1/8" increments going deeper and deeper until you see the material change. Then you'll know the depth of the epoxy. Once your that far, do some more holes to that same depth, then try and crack the rest of the epoxy out of there. Worst that happens is you wreck the handle and you'll have some experience for the next one you get.

Measure the badger holes diameter, buy a TGN finest 2 band 2mm smaller than the size measured and epoxy it in there using pennies to get the loft to 48mm. ( You don't have to do it to 48mm loft, that's just where I'd put it at.)

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Harry I followed your directions and here we are today. Knocked out the epoxy, following your instructions, then sanded with a dremel with sanding tip until everything felt level. I polished the plastic handle with some automotive polish I sell (I sell detail supplies on the side) and lastly used a white crayon to fill in the bottom lettering. Now to find a knot. I will probably go with boar since the handle says "pure bristle".
Any suggestions on vendors and also, what type of epoxy should I use? Not really familiar. http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h7...ps1olovtto.jpghttp://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h7...pstiqpsw0n.jpghttp://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h7...psvlwud6ma.jpg

Hhhhhhmmmmm...... hhhhmmm, hhhmmm, hhhmmm....... I feel like there's still more epoxy in there.

BAck in the day, when those old brushs were made,they did not use epoxys,they used alipethic glues or plasters.
you need to get in there with a forstner bit.

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you need to get in there with a forstner bit.

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Agreed......

What you did on the bottom to the letters looks great!

Yeah , the bottom of the bigger bit hole looks more like "rock bottom" :<0)
Here are a few I have out. 3/8" will just cover the bottom of a knot. Those knots are 22mm to 18mm but you can see the new glue is about the same depth.

In the handles you can see all the epoxy out.

Attachment 196976

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Originally Posted by 10Pups

Yeah , the bottom of the bigger bit hole looks more like "rock bottom" :<0)
Here are a few I have out. 3/8" will just cover the bottom of a knot. Those knots are 22mm to 18mm but you can see the new glue is about the same depth.

In the handles you can see all the epoxy out.

Attachment 196976

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Those look great. Not to be a defeatist, but I am startin to think on ditching this and buying cheap Omega!! Lol

With most of the plastic handled brushes I've dealt with, I usually clean out the entire inside, drilling all the way through the plaster. Then as was mentioned earlier, build a new shelf using pennies, washers, spacers, wine cork, whatever you want.

After you've completely cleared out the inside, I would also take some sandpaper to the outer edge of the opening and smooth it out, looks a little flaky.

Don't give up, you're almost there!

*edit - any two part marine epoxy will work, just make sure you mix them correctly or your knot will eventually break free and flip out of the handle when you're shaking the water out... ask me how I know.

I have an old ever-ready brush that I got free with a vintage scuttle. The bristles are nylon or some similar material and its performanceis not much to speak of. I've thrown it into my travel bag since I'm not afraid to lose it. This thread has inspired me to rebuild it anew with a nice badger knot. Thank you gentlemen, for the inspiration.

Good for you sir. Be sure to post pics as you go!

Yes that is looking better..Detail supply? I worked at Gene's Import Auto Body in Sand City, CA as a post paint detailer...We called the nubs and nibs 'fresh out of the booth'...Then I would bartend at night. Anyway, yes that looks much better! I use P&S Clearcut II to polish off the specks. Touch up that little speck on the zero, on the bottom of the brush :) And by the 'L'... :) What Are you gonna Knot it with?

I am thinking on going with Boar since it already says pure bristle at the bottom.

Yep polished my fair share of cars too! I sell Mark V products and Pro Products for the most part with some boutique products from USA and Germany as well.

I dont care what anyone says...my boar hair brush has NEVER failed me.

I didn't sale anything...I made dam sure the work i did was perfect as I could get it. Badger hair knots are not much more.