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I'm looking for advice on how to repair the wooden handle on my brush. This brush was purchased from Straight Razor Designs from the Stephen's Woodshop line I believe a few years ago. It's a great brush, but the soap has eaten away at the finish. Any advice is appreciated. Keep in mind I'm not a wood guy, so I will most likely need detailed instructions.
I guess im missing something as i dont see an issue. It dont look broken.
You could trying to tape the knot to protect it then get to hand sanding. Once you get the old finish off stain it the color you like then seal it with a marine finish. I’ve used waterlox on my brushes but they have only been in use for a short period of time. I did finish a vanity counter top with waterlox some 8 years ago for a client and haven’t seen or heard any I’ll affects from water and it’s used daily.
It is kind of hard to tell from the picture, but the varnish is gone right under the bristles up unto the handle color turns dark mahogany. The lower 2/3rd's is still protected, the botton 1/3rd isn't.Quote:
Originally Posted by Gasman
Thanks. A co-worker who is pretty good with wood suggested something similar. He said I could sand it down to the halfway lip and try and match the stain, then finish with a marine grade spar varnish. I'll definitely check into the waterlox.Quote:
Originally Posted by jfk742
I’m not a wood guy either, but unless the photo is misleading, I kind of like the two tone effect on the handle. If it were mine, I’d just clean off any residue and loose finish and apply a waterproofing to the brush as is. We often leave the patina on vintage blades so why not do the same for a brush?
I'm with DZEC it looks cool like that. I'd tape the knot off with blue painters tape. (Doesn't stick to the bristles as bad). Scuff the whole handle with 0000 steel wool, apply a new sealer. Spar urethane, or Birchwood n Casey Tru-oil. (Gun stock finish ).
I guess I should ask this...are you soaking your brush.?
Not a good idea, for wood. Unless u know its been totally sealed, inside and out of the handle.
I didn’t ask this before, but are you hanging the brush with bristles down to dry out? I have a few of those really cheap plastic brush holders To do that. They don’t cost more than a few dollars each and help save the handles and the keep the knot glue intact.Quote:
Originally Posted by outback
I understand the issue now. I thought the two tone was the way it was made. I think it looks great. Id do like Mike, tape the bristles, rough it up, wipe it down with a cleaner like Acetone, dry for 10 minutes and recoat with Tru-oil, or a light stain then seal a day later.
It would appear, water got under the finish and it flaked away. Which is why wood is not the best material for a brush handle that will be in contact with water for long periods of time. Not only dunked into water but water wicked deep into the brush.
First find out what the existing finish is. Dip a Qtip in Lacquer thinner and touch it to the finish, if it loosens up, its lacquer. Alcohol will dissolve shellac. If neither work it is some kind of synthetic finish.
If it was not an expensive brush it was probably finished in spray lacquer and the mortise was not sealed and wicked moisture.You could touch it up with the same finish, but most likely will see where the two finishes meet, unless you strip completely and refinish the whole handle.
If the mortise/socket was not sealed, you will likely have the same problem again no matter the finish, and you will not know unless you remove the knot.Tape the brush as said, sand and reapply, with finish of choice.
I too kind of like the “fade” finish, and would probably just put some paste wax on it and call it good.
This was my thought as well.Quote:
Originally Posted by Euclid440