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Gray Box Burl Hybrid with CA finish. Judging by the unturned block I didn't expect it to be so purple I was thinking/hoping it would end up more green. but that's the way the cookie crumbles.
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Looks nice. Even in Purple.
If you call it amethyst, it sounds much more sophisticated than purple.
Looks like it would be very comfortable in the hand.
Nice work.
That looks very nice and it's very nicely done. I just don't quite get the stabilized wood blocks. It has a kind of Robocop look to me.
I don't understand what you don't get?:confused: Why the picture of the block? If so it was to show how I expected it to be aqua/green rather the mostly purple.Quote:
Originally Posted by PaulFLUS
That is a very nice brush. I like all the colour in it.
What I meant was that I don't quite understand doing that with a piece of wood. It's not a moral judgment. I just personally want it to either be wood or to be plastic or whatever that is. That's all. It looks nice. I have nothing against it really. It's just not something I would want for myself.Quote:
Originally Posted by Audels1
I sorry I though you were asking why the picture of the block.Quote:
Originally Posted by PaulFLUS
Most of the time the wood are scraps the are all but useless for anything else. Depending on the color combination thy can look quite good and other not so good. This one for example if the majority of Aqua came through when turned it would have looked like a different brush.
Since I don't poor my own blanks I can't control the amount of any one color but rather try to guess what it will look like after turning. In this case my guess was way off.
That’s funny Paul.
It’s a different strokes thing. I love those blended products. Some day I’ll make some too.
Oh I can definitely see where it would be useful. I have some wood I really love that is very hard to use because of the way the wood is weather worn. Here are some scales I made out of it.
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There is no finish or stain. That is the natural color of the wood. You can see in the second picture that there is a little inclusion. Those are hard to avoid. I have filled them but usually I just try to minimize them and leave it as a natural feature of the wood. Here is what it looks like when I drag it out of the woods.
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Also because of the way the grain turns it is hard to pick out a straight piece to use. I'd like to have a brush handle made from it but that would be damn near impossible in it's natural state. The stabilizing would make this wood more usable for sure.
Excellent Paul, I always assumed people ordered wood to make scales from. Going into the woods to find something is not only really impressive but of course cheaper :rock:Quote:
Originally Posted by PaulFLUS
Can a person use any wood for scales?
Pretty much. given the right amount of time for it to dry.Quote:
Originally Posted by STF
Some woods are better than others. I have bought some that had wood that looked like it was made from boards from an old fence. This wood I use is from an old dead tree, maybe dead for 150 years. Plus it is Southern Live Oak which is so hard it will smoke a 10" carbide table saw blade. That's what the US Navy made ships out of in the 18th and 19th centuries because it was so dense and hard cannon balls would bounce off of it. It is so dense that Tru Oil won't soak in to it.
Sorry didn't mean to hijack the thread.
No Worries. More Information is always a good thing in my bookQuote:
Originally Posted by PaulFLUS
Also, some woods really do need to be stabilized. For example, I absolutely love spalted maple, but on its own, it's way too porous and weak for scales. Stabilize it and it's both strong and absolutely beautiful.Quote:
Originally Posted by Audels1
That's good information. I didn't know, or maybe didn't think about, that stabilizing would strengthen the wood. I don't know why, especially in light of the name. Duh! :confused:
Yeah, it basically turns it into a composite material. BTW for spalted maple scales (or something similarly thin), really thin - i.e. the watery consistency - CA glue can work as well. It's thin enough for it to soak right through and effectively stabilize the whole thickness. For thicker stuff, a vacuum chamber is needed to get the stabilizing material to soak right through.Quote:
Originally Posted by PaulFLUS
