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Does anyone know of a good source of information and stones for sharpening tools for outdoor use? I chopped down a tree and took out a stump this weekend, and my ax and grubbing hoe are both in need of sharpening (both were bought for the task). None of my stones are really applicable. I've seen round, puck-shaped stones used for such tasks, but I've no idea where to find them or how to use them.
Thanks!
I bought 'The Sharp Practise' by Leonard Lee.
It contains a lot of useful information for sharpening tools.
For axes you can use your normal hones.
I used a small manmade hone to sharpen my felling axe, and it was really sharp.
If you need to hone concave surfaces, you could do 2 things:
a) buy belgian blue or coticule shaped stones. These are made for those surfaces, and it is easy to shape them using sandpaper
b) take a piece of broken hone, and use a file, dremel or anything else to shape it for your surface.
Bruno...this helps. Thanks for the feedback.
I like grinders for this task- you don't have to be able to shave with the ax for it to be a tree eater.Quote:
Originally Posted by TULIP
I agree w/QO... I usually just take the ax to the grinder, otherwise I just use a file. I've never used a grub hoe, but I'd guess it would be similar to maintaining a mattock... again, file or grinder for me.
OTOH, if you were entering one of those lumberjack contests you'd probably be polishing that ax's bevel with .25 chrome :p
Buy a cheap rough silicon carbide oilstone from your local hardware store. You can use water instead, it's less messy. You can use this somewhat like the puck stones.
Or try an angle grinder with a flapwheel abrasive disc dipping the blade in water frequently to avoid ruining the temper.
I sharpen a lot of shovels, axes, chainsaws...etc. Use a flat bastard file--single or double cut. Put a fairly steep bevel on it...I usually shoot for 45 degree. A grinder will work, but you have to be very careful not to burn the edge...once you turn the metal blue, the temper is gone and you may as well throw the tool away. Too sharp an edge is useless for a tool subjected to the blunt force trauma of an axe or use in the soil (very abrasive) such as a shovel or hoe.
Just another data point,
Ed
My Axe gets treatment from a carbundium hone. An Antique I happen to have. I have no idea of the grit but it gets the job done fast.
earth digging tools and lawn mower blades never get anything finer than file work.
About the only thing I do with my grinder any more is straighten my lawn mower blades and do the really rough sharpening. Just like ForestryProf says you don't want to burn the edge, so when I have a straight un dented edge I finish with a file.
I second this. I grew up on a small farm and sharpened an awful lot of hoes and machetes and axes in my youth. Clamp it down or put it in a horizontal bench vise, and hold the ends of the file in your hands and run the file down the length of the blade - the angled teeth in the file do the cutting and you get a consistent, smooth, wickedly sharp edge all the way down. Wear gloves when you do this, or you could lose a finger if your grip slips. Or keep the superglue handy. I never did remember the gloves, so I went through a lot of superglue...Quote:
Originally Posted by ForestryProf