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I found this Quality no. 33 in a local shop. Scales were warped and broke so I decided to try new ones out of Faux ivory and inlet the bolsters from the original scales. I am fairly pleased. The Faux ivory from Masecraft turned out to be more flexible than I would have liked but it will work fine.Attachment 144376
Clean work, great job! :)
Nice job. Congrats
Nicely done.
Well my friends, this is definitely a case where holding something in your hand tells you so much more than pictures ever could!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by Splashone
I have my friend’s razor here for honing as I write and I will tell you that I am Very Impressed with his FIRST EVER attempt at making scales!!
If I didn’t know for a fact that the original scales were broken I’d swear that this was a Razor in NOS Scales!!!!! YES! They are that good!!! :tu
I’ll try to post some different pictures in a day or two; I’ve got my plate plenty full right now!!
He’s a perfectionist and see’s where he thinks he could have improved, but I don’t see where I’d change a thing!!! :shrug:
I look forward to seeing great scales coming from him!!! You just watch and see!! :bow:
not to bad at all
weel done
If I am understanding this correctly you marked out the scale material with the shape of the bolsters and removed material so that they would sit flush with the scales? Is this the usual method for transferring bolsters because somehow I had the idea that some guys set the bolsters on top of the scale material and tapered the bolsters so they would not catch on anything.....and a general question, kind of off thread, how were bolsters done in the factories that originally produced them on their razors? I kind of saw dies that a molten scale material would be poured into and the whole works shaped and polished from a near finished state. Anyway, first time or 200th time......looking good!
Yes. First, I contoured the scales to the approximate radius of the old but left about .030" extra thickness. Then I made sure that the bolsters didn't have any strange bends in them (some of the "leaf" ends were out of plane with the main portion). Then I carefully placed the bolster and scribed around it with an exacto knife and #11 blade. Then I used a sharpie to color over the scribe line. A quick trip to the sink and some 1000 grit paper leaves just the fine black line of the scribing.
Then I used my dremel with a 1/16" and 1/32" diameter rotary files and the exacto to relieve the area where the bolster would sit. When I was satisfied with how all the bolsters were lying, I used some slow setting epoxy to bed the bolsters and fill any gaps underneath them.
Finally, I covered the bolsters with masking tape and trimmed to their outline and sanded the scales down to flush. I finish sanded without the tape to bring down the tape thickness mismatch and buffed the finished pieces. Repinned with nickel/silver rod and stainless washers.
I believe the bolsters were originally cast into the celluloid.
You did very well there. Would definately be hard to tell them from the originals.
Now that I like! Excellent work, great eye for and attention to detail and the result looks very good. I look forward to seeing more (close-up) pictures of this blade.Quote:
Originally Posted by Splashone
When the scales broke and Splashone told me to dismatle the pieces and send him the hardware along with the razor so he could make new one's. He also said that he wanted them to sit flush and didn't know how it was done at the factory I asked a Mod who told me that he 'thought' that they were placed on the plastic scales 'hot' and that they seated themselves.Quote:
Originally Posted by Splashone
I think that his solution is a great one!! Time consuming? Yes! Looking Good? OH YEA!!!! :y :y
That explanation seemed plausible until I heated up a piece of metal and put it to a celluloid scale. The sizzling and puff of smoke made me think it was time to get a fire extinguisher.
As I said he 'thought' that was how it was done! I will say this, those bolster didn't want to let go very easily!!!
Did you find any kind of 'adhesive' residue???
There was no residue. They were an "exact" fit into the scale so the scale had to flow around the bolster. Some of the rounded edges on the bolsters actually had scale material up over the top of them. Thus their reluctance to let go.
Chemistry may have defied you there. You can't make a baked egg runny by heating it up, I guess the same goes for celluloid.Quote:
Originally Posted by Splashone
Hi Gang!
As promised More Pictures!!
However, I must first tell you that the razor is a great shaver! Also the pinning was very nicely done!! The blade centers when closing and it holds in all positions!
Alright! Now to the fun stuff!!
Attachment 144813
Attachment 144814
Attachment 144815
OK! So I'm no Ansel Adams but this is the best this Old Redneck County Boy could do! What do you expect from a Mastodon!
Attachment 144816 :rofl2::rofl2::rofl2:
Nice job with the caps
There is hot & then there is too hot. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Splashone
Neil Miller might be worth a pm as to how they were originally fitted.
When we can get celluloid today (yes, it is still made) it is usual to get it in sheet form. This has been 'aged' for many months after oven hardening to drive off excess moisture, etc. It is aged to allow for shrinkage. The old time celluloid may have only been aged for a couple of months, nowadays it is more than double that.
In its pre-aged 'green' form it is soft and full of excess moisture - some companies just pressed the water out of it. When first mixed it is mouldable, and quite a high heat is used in the moulding process. Unfortunately using this degree of heat once it is aged is likely to ignite it.
Hyatt, the entrepreneur who brought it to fame though not inventing it, used it in a heated moulding press to make billiard balls. By 1872 he had filed his plans for the first celluloid injection moulding machine.
I would expect that hot celluloid was forced into scale moulds that already contained the bolsters. The fact that you can sometimes find examples with celluloid fins over tne metalwork supports tbis view. It is a pity that in some cases the ageing process was rushed, allowing the celluloid scales to shrink around the blade, sometimes wedging it firmly in place.
The amount of heat used varied with the type of celluloid. Tha acetate version (the one that degrades to give a vinegar smell) can take much more heat than the even more unstable nitrate version, and the improved triacetate version can bear more heat than both.
Regards
Neil
What scale thickness did u order from masecraft
The "fins" were present on the old scales after popping the bolsters off.Quote:
Originally Posted by Neil Miller
I order 1/8" materials for scales.
