W&B Rattler / Faux Frameback

From an eBay auction, looked in horrible shape, but I have a soft spot for abandoned W&B's, so I took a chance on this one. Two years ago, I never would have imagined I would be doing this and how truly enjoyable and relaxing it is.:)

Here is the auction pic:

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It got a quick one minute sanding all over and a scrub with a toothbrush and toothpaste.

Here it is after a soak in Evapo-Rust for 12 hours. I like the Evapo-Rust as it seems to loosen all the gunk off the blade.

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After an initial 10 minute sanding, most of the dark matter and gunk came off. I'll have a look at it some more, and it will probably go for another 24 hour soak the Evapo-Rust.


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Other interesting surprise is the razor, at it's belly, measure's at 8/8, maybe just shy.

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That's a cool blade design. Any idea on the age?

Nice! I love those big collars! ;)

I had that in my cross hairs. Glad you got it. I am still trying to break a record for least purchases in a year :<0)

Hey Phrank - a mirror polish, ditch the dirty scales in favour of some swirly kirinite, fit some hex screws in place of the bullseye washers and that will look great.:nj

No thanks required - just post some pics when you're done.

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Originally Posted by UKRob

Hey Phrank - a mirror polish, ditch the dirty scales in favour of some swirky kirinite, fit some hex screws in place of the bullseye washers and that will look great.:nj

No thanks required - just post some pics when you're done.

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Mirror polish it will have - wonky kirinite scales will never adorn this blade!:D

I get in enough trouble here with the mirror polish and replacing scales on some blades with traditional black or blonde horn...kirinite...even I won't go that far! :rofl2:

Now there is some serious potential. It could not have found a better home.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by UKRob

Hey Phrank - a mirror polish, ditch the dirty scales in favour of some swirly kirinite, fit some hex screws in place of the bullseye washers and that will look great.:nj

No thanks required - just post some pics when you're done.

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There's a place in hell for people who do that.

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Originally Posted by Hart

There's a place in hell for people who do that.

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And nothing to shave with but cartridges and butter for shave cream :<0)

Well nobody hold back. Tell us what you really think.

Here's after another soak in Evapo-Rust and about 15 minutes of 1000 grit sanding with some WD40.

The razor will go into a soak now for a few days in some Neatsfoot Oil to re-condition the scales.

The razor has revealed some pitting, which is a disappointment, but after the neatsfoot, will go 2000 grit, 3000 grit and then final polish with some crox and WD40.

I don't have any power tools, would prefer to stay hand only, so any suggestions to get rid of some of this pitting, or any other suggestion would be appreciated and I will use after the Neatsfoot Oil.

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Well I use 220 grit sandpaper. Use any standard kitchen sponge dry and folded in half. Wrap your sandpaper around the outside and go in one direction only up and down most will tell you works best. See how deep the pits are, work your way back up the grits.
http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...tml#post809470
Other proven methods are in this link.
http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...wers-here.html

I rarely drop below 400. YMMV The backing the sandpaper helps to keep lines straight, I use a cork and some pieces of wood, depending on where on the razor I am sanding.

Looks like that one is turning out to be a great find. I would have passed it up looking at that first pic.

I had one of those... it was a great shaver once Glen got rid of the frown and put an edge on it!

Good luck with the resto... looks like it's coming along nicely!

On the basis that you don't get rid of pits - you remove all the metal surrounding them - take a long hard look and decide just how much work it will take. As others have said, they start at much lower grit abrasive - so your 1k will take a long, long time, especially if you want a perfect finish under the spine area.

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Originally Posted by UKRob

On the basis that you don't get rid of pits - you remove all the metal surrounding them - take a long hard look and decide just how much work it will take. As others have said, they start at much lower grit abrasive - so your 1k will take a long, long time, especially if you want a perfect finish under the spine area.

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Thanks for the advice, I was actually just going to go down and take the razor out of the neatsfoot oil - don't think I want to remove that much metal, some scars from aging don't bother me that much - I'll give it some more time on the 1k, then 2k, 3k and some polish and get her ready for a shave.

Couple of shots after a soak in Neatsfoot Oil...little more polishing and then to the stones!

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wow! its coming up something extra special!

just wow

One of the things that I really like is when I take an obviously very old set of horn scales and clean them with WD-40 and 0000 steel wool. The color comes back as the deep ground in gunk comes off and the fine lines become visible. It is impossible to show in pictures but the depth and texture is so incredibly rich. Those are great scales on a fantastic razor Andrew.

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Originally Posted by RezDog

One of the things that I really like is when I take an obviously very old set of horn scales and clean them with WD-40 and 0000 steel wool. The color comes back as the deep ground in gunk comes off and the fine lines become visible. It is impossible to show in pictures but the depth and texture is so incredibly rich. Those are great scales on a fantastic razor Andrew.

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This one worked out well, turned out to be an 8/8 and doesn't have that much hone wear, scales ended up as a real bonus, didn't think they'd live! Going to do a little more sanding at 2k and 3k, some liquid crox and then it should be finished. Not going to go too far.

Then to pick a time when I'm relaxed, at peace with the Universe, and hone this puppy up!:D

bevel setting in restoration honing can takes some time. Don't be surprised if you have to put it away and come back another day. Once you have that foundation perfect you can walk through the grits to a perfect shave.

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Originally Posted by RezDog

bevel setting in restoration honing can takes some time. Don't be surprised if you have to put it away and come back another day. Once you have that foundation perfect you can walk through the grits to a perfect shave.

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Going to use the Naniwa 1k, Lynn's circle to set the bevel, then move up, and this time, I'm going to more formally add some pyramid, going to go Nani 3k, then 5k, then 8k and try some pyramids with the 8k and the 5k, I ended up doing this by trial and error, did some searching here and it's called the pyramid method...it makes sense, so will give it a try...what do you think?

read this first http://straightrazorpalace.com/advan...l-setting.html it may save you a little time and help your blood pressure

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Originally Posted by RezDog

read this first http://straightrazorpalace.com/advan...l-setting.html it may save you a little time and help your blood pressure

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There are no chips in the blade...it actually still has quite a bit of sharpness to it...thanks for this Shaun...this is what I need to do I think...sheesh...on the DMT...gulp!

I linked to Glen's second post in the thread...would you agree this is the step is should be doing?

http://straightrazorpalace.com/advan...ml#post1254398

If you read through it there is a point in which you would start for a edge that is not damaged. You can also use the elevated on the DMT part and then jump to many layers of tape on the 1K. The point to the elevated blade on the DMT is so that the deep stria don't extend into the solder of the finished bevel and you actually don't use up as much steel. You can PM me when you are actually about to start and we can discuss it more then.