10/08 O1 Barber’s Notch with Spalted Maple

Greetings everyone,

Here is a razor I just finished up (although I still need to hone it).

This 10/08 Barber’s Notch blade is made from 3/16” O1, and is about 3 inches long. The handle is spalted maple that I found in my wood pile and sent out to K&G Finishing Supplies for stabilization. The wedge is Olive, and the pins and washers are all stainless.

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That is a HUGE razor! How does it shave?

Well, I haven't honed it yet and I have a full beard so, at the moment, I don't know. I'll probably hone it up tomorrow and see how it does.

Absolutely love it!

Lovely job there ,a wee bit big for me but I am seriously impressed by you craftsmanship.
Cheers Paul

Time that full beard went Chris, and that's the tool to do it with!

The jimping is incredible: how did you do it?

Nice looking blade. There is a lot of wood there. How is the balance? Make your pins shorter so they don't split on the edges.

Thanks guys!

Maladroit, I did the jimping with a checkering file that I got from that I got from MidwayUSA.

Karlej, the balance is pretty good. The blade it 3/16" wide at the top edge and is fairly heavy, so the wood balances it out.

Thanks for the peening tip. Is there a rule of thumb for how much pin to leave above the washer before peening? I've mostly used nickle silver in the past, so I never really encountered the splitting. Somewhere around, I have one of those head spinner things for a drill. If that doesn't help, I may redo the pins.

Welcome to the Workshop: How do I / Where do I / What do I / answers are here Lots of good stick and rudder here on pinning razors.
I don't leave much material above the collar when pinning. Maybe 1/3 the diameter of the pin. Maybe even less. Strike on the edges of the pin. Never in the middle. Go easy you don't want to bend the pin. Start one side of the pin head by holding it in smooth vise jaws and tapping around the edges to form the mushroom shaped head. Then install the pin with washers/collars, cut off the opposite side protruding pin close to the collar, file the surface flat down to what you think is the correct protruding amount and finish peening. Once you get it right you'll quickly develop an eye for what is the correct amount.
GSSIXGUN has a well done video showing all the basics. Certainly worth viewing if you have not seen it.

I hope you mean 3/8 instead of 3/16? Because at 10/8 it needs to be 3/8

That is nice! Great work :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bruno

I hope you mean 3/8 instead of 3/16? Because at 10/8 it needs to be 3/8

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3/16 is tiny. That looks closer to 3/8 to me. Just a question why does it need to be 3/8? Stability?

By the way O.P.

Nice razor I love it.

You guys are right, the razor is 3/8" thick, not 3/16". My error.

I decided that the split pin heads really bothered me, so I removed the old pins and re-did them. The new ones came out much better (but still not perfect).

I also honed the razor and went to shave with it. I discovered that, since I stopped shaving a couple of years ago, my wife had boxed up my scuttle and all of my soaps, brushes, etc., and put them in the basement somewhere. Rather than spend the afternoon searching, I was forced to shave using (gasp!) Edge foaming shave gel. Since I was only doing my neck and the area above my beard, I figured I could get away with it. The razor worked fine, and I escaped with only one small cut on my check, caused by my being distracted when one of my daughters yelled to her sister, several rooms away. :rant:

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by S0LITARYS0LDIER

3/16 is tiny. That looks closer to 3/8 to me. Just a question why does it need to be 3/8? Stability?

By the way O.P.

Nice razor I love it.

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The honing angle. The width - thickness ratio is important because that determines the honing angle. If the angle gets too shallow, it will be a drag to hone, it will get very big bevels, and the edge will crumple quickly. The rule of thumb says that the ratio of thickness and width should be between 1/3 and 1/4