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I am experimenting with some different ways of finishing a razor and one of the "victims" was this Friodur.
I took the blade to 600 greasless, then light buff with emery to make it shine just a rad, but in essence it is bright satin finish.
The scales are Mica Acrylic, with overlay transfer. I used brass pins and stainless washers to put the razor together, the wedge is smoke acrylic.
Very nice custom. She's not too far over the top, but just right.
A very nice restore Stefan.
Lovely scales and well done on the inlay transfer.
Beautiful, Stefan. I love the scales.
Razor porn. Beautiful result Stefan.
Beautiful job-Is that a horn wedge
Nice work my friend! :tu
What brand of Emery did you use? I've been wanting to play with some but there are some out there that seem to be lacking while others are said to cut better.
Just wondering :shrug:
Looks great!
I like those scales and the overlay transfer came out excellent!
Very classy
That is an excellent result! Very nice work. Great photos as well
Top notch job Stefan. I am partial to that 'polished satin crocus' finish myself...Love it!
Beautiful work Stefan, sure like the not so shiny blade, well done.
I"m with you Martin, I get so frustrated with the 'Dremel Kings' over polishing blades that Never Ever looked that polished in the beginning.Quote:
Originally Posted by Martin103
I just returned a razor to the owner who requested that the 'satin finish' (I used 600 greaseless) be applied to the blade and leave the spine, shank and tail more polished and it looks nice! I'm really loving that look. That's why I'd really like to know what Stefen used as I think it would have added a touch more class to the razor I just finished.
Hey! I'm always willing to learn! :tu
I dont know what Stefan used, but i can tell you that Wolfpack uses an 800 grit crocus cloth for the blade only and the finish is outstanding.Quote:
Originally Posted by cudarunner
See it on this thread: http://straightrazorpalace.com/custo...30-1850-a.html
Is transferring that emblem the hardest part ?
Smoke acrylicQuote:
Originally Posted by ScoutHikerDad
I use the one Caswell sellsQuote:
Originally Posted by cudarunner
I have done quite a few so not anymore, it is precision work but as long as the hand is steady no issues.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hirlau
Quote:
Originally Posted by cudarunner
I plan on making a mini "how to" thread at some point. Just have to find time to take some WIP pics.
Here is a big 9/8 Herder I did using only wheels up to 600 greaseless. That Herder looked the same as far as finish when I got it, but had some spotting. I left some small pitting in the hollow grind I did not want to mess with it. Unlike with cotton wheels this method allows for much shallower and more uniform scratch pattern, and when done carefully the results are extremely close to factory condition IMO.
I like that look! :bow:Quote:
Originally Posted by mainaman
IF you didn't use cotton wheels what did you use? Done by hand?
My apologies if I missed the tool or method if you mentioned it before.
The only time I ever tried the inlay transfer I gave up. It's like you have to match the contour of the inlay to the contour of the scales. That's very difficult in and of itself. Then to get it to stay in the right spot, and be flush to the scales, is again ridiculously hard. Kudos to those that have figured it out.
I used wheels for the restore, I'll explain everything in a separate thread.Quote:
Originally Posted by cudarunner
I'm sure I know your technique Stefan and I couldn't agree more. It's what I call a "polished natural steel" look instead of a 'shiny mirror... plated steel look". Once again great work Stefan.Quote:
Originally Posted by mainaman
I use a sisal wheel with Jantz medium cut and color compound to get a similar effect or you can use the fine cut to get a little more shine. It's drier than emery and is made for a sisal wheel. I use it on sewn cotton too when working up to a crocus type finish. Nice work. Looking forward to your tutorial.