Late nite, and working on an old Oxford

Well, I’m on a one month vacation, and it’s about day 4.

So here I am, in the Man-Cave after midnight, and working on an old Oxford which I got for something like $10.00...if memory serves me correctly.

Scales were trashed, and the blade was Funky McNasty, but the blade cleaned-up super nice.

Time to go to bed.

I will be building the scales tomorrow.

I have high hopes for this blade.

I like them wider (7/8” to 8/8” inch), but I dig the square point.

Let’s see what happens.

Attachment 326925

Attachment 326921

Attachment 326926

I have a bunch of those blades. One of my favorites. Enjoy the time off.

Projects keep me out of trouble. Hopefully the rear of the month has enough to keep you occupied. It looking pretty good. Have you set the bevel to check the grind yet?

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Originally Posted by RezDog

Have you set the bevel to check the grind yet?

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No, I have not set the bevel yet.

I want to finish and attach the scales before I even start taking the blade measurements to set the bevel.

Too much can go wrong if the bevel is set and sharpened BEFORE I start putting on the scales.

Gotta find my linseed oil though.

Aloha!

I have one Oxford that I reconditioned about 5 years ago, perhaps more. I really like the blade, and the scales are lovely. Actually my most ornate scales in all of my collection. I will probably post it to the SOTD tread later today for Tabac Tuesday since I like to go all German on Tabac Tuesday.

Enjoy that razor and your time off.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by RaymondMillbrae

No, I have not set the bevel yet.

I want to finish and attach the scales before I even start taking the blade measurements to set the bevel.

Too much can go wrong if the bevel is set and sharpened BEFORE I start putting on the scales.

Gotta find my linseed oil though.

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I agree with REZ.

Maybe not a full bevel set but make sure there is enough there to set it before you possibly waste your time.

When I have done any heavy restoration, before I finish sanding I set the bevel to make sure the grind is straight, typically at around 400 grit sanding. It sort of the last chance to fix any waviness in the grind before I finish up. More than once I have gotten the finish complete on the blade polish, scales made, then I go to set the bevel and it is wavy, then I have to back up, straighten the grind, and then re-polish the blade and re-attach the scales. It’s easier to set the bevel and check before I’ve gone too far.

Yep. I agree with Rez.
I've found bad steal under the tiniest of pitting and thought it would be fine. Then by the time I managed to get a good edge, the scales came off and I tossed the blade as it was just too far gone. You can kill the edge after setting the bevel to make it safer to handle. It doesn't take much to bring back a bevel after it's been properly set. Then you haven't wasted any time.

Thanks.

Good points, fellah's.

Also, if you sand with a backer you will get a flatter, more even finish, and it is way easier on your fingers.

I use a wine cork with a 3x3 piece of 6mm craft foam wrapped around it an a 3x3 piece of sandpaper wrapped around the foam.

If you cut your sandpaper 3x3 you can get 4, fresh sides to sand with and get maximum use from the paper, and a way faster and better finish.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Euclid440

Also, if you sand with a backer you will get a flatter, more even finish, and it is way easier on your fingers.

I use a wine cork with a 3x3 piece of 6mm craft foam wrapped around it an a 3x3 piece of sandpaper wrapped around the foam.

If you cut your sandpaper 3x3 you can get 4, fresh sides to sand with and get maximum use from the paper, and a way faster and better finish.

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I use 1”x2”x1/2” erasers.

A padded wine cork is about 1.5 inches thick, much easier on the hands. Cutting the paper square allows you to rotate the paper for a fresh cutting surface.

The convex surface allows much better contact for sanding from spine to edge and side to side, heel to toe. Alternating your sanding direction speeds up the process and gives a more uniform finish.

If you do a lot of hand sanding, you look for every advantage.

Okay, now it’s time to finish this blade. (I just finished my Wade & Butcher).

I’ve restored this Oxford blade to where I like it’s roughish look, and I’ve also placed a rough edge on it. (Which was fine).

Now I’m designing scales for it.

It’s an early 1900’s blade.

Which wood do you think I should choose!

Attachment 327166

IMO, I vote for the Zebra, but you can't skimp on the width of the scales. Meaning you need a little room to show the grain.