EDACO dressed in aluminium

I took some advice from onimaru55.

"Just create new problems as you go. It's easy :D"

Here is my latest. I am up to Thursday in my rotation.

These scales started as corner molding in the hallway at work. They are remodeling and I dug the aluminium out of the trash can. I am starting to wonder where to put my growing collection and thought that it might be good to hang them on hooks on the wall. This was a good way to spend the day as we have a blizzard outside.

I am wondering about the proportion and am thinking that the sides could use some sort of engraving to liven them up.

What do you think?

Tim

That is incredibly interesting. Keep those pins tight so no one gets a handful of blade! :)

The look is pretty cool though.

[QUOTE=Maxi;702283]That is incredibly interesting. Keep those pins tight so no one gets a handful of blade! :)


I agree!

For now the aluminium and the steel seem to have a good friction between them even after oiling. I have tried to think of something.... some sort of clip or even as simple as a rubber band. The best solution would be to have a ring on the monkeys tail and hang it from there. TIG weld a washer on the end?

Tim

Very interesting idea :tu...one caveat to watch out for: be careful of gravity taking over and making the blade open while hanging and hit a corner or something. I don't think it'll be feasible to put the gizmo on the other pivot end, or would it? it may interfere with the freedom of movement :thinking:

'Could use a rare earth magnet on a string and set the tail to it. Works for me with magnets installed into the bottom of the shelf above the sink. ¼" diameter x ¼" long magnets are a minimum to support the weight of a razor.
Respectfully
~Richard

Wow, very interesting.

[QUOTE=Geezer;702597]'Could use a rare earth magnet on a string and set the tail to it.

The magnets are an interesting idea. I wonder if a magnet mounted in the side of the scale would hold it shut?

I am leaning torwards putting a loop like what I have seen on pocket knives. With a notch in the spine you would fold into the shut postion like the attached image. To open it you would swing it out of the way towards the wedge end. I have a folding ice saw that has a system like that that works pretty good.

In reality the tang pushes out on the scales when it is shut and creates quite a bit of friction. I swung it around today and I could get it to open but it took quite a bit. Just hanging there it isn't going to fall open.

Tim

I like it!! Necessity the mother of invention, I really like how the razor is right there with your strop ready for action

I'm sorry that I missed this thread earlier!
I really like what you've done with your metal scales.
Here's a thought. If you are up for redoing one of the pins on the wedge you could remove the one closest to the blade. The second pin at this point is just helping to keep the wedge in line. I don't see where you would have to have it totally tight for it to do it's job. In which case, go ahead and make your saftey loop out of some type of heavy wire or round stock. Flatten the ends and drill holes. Make the loop big enought to go over your extended wedge end. Then repeen that rivit, *but* don't peen it all the way. Just enought to give you a good rivit head on both sides, and leave it loose enough to let the loop move. You can tighten it up enough so that the loop is snug, but still moves relatively easily.
again, just a thought.

Keep up the good work!

I like this a lot, it's definitely a shaving tool. Whilst the concerns about the razor opening accidentally are very understandable, I think this is likely to be less of a problem with aluminium than most other materials, the coefficient of friction being high. Something in the dim recesses of my memory is telling me that it has a reputation for unintentional cold welding in some situations, in fact. shutterbug's suggestion would be a reassuring modification, nonetheless.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by shutterbug

I'm sorry that I missed this thread earlier!
I really like what you've done with your metal scales.
Here's a thought. If you are up for redoing one of the pins on the wedge you could remove the one closest to the blade. The second pin at this point is just helping to keep the wedge in line. I don't see where you would have to have it totally tight for it to do it's job. In which case, go ahead and make your saftey loop out of some type of heavy wire or round stock. Flatten the ends and drill holes. Make the loop big enought to go over your extended wedge end. Then repeen that rivit, *but* don't peen it all the way. Just enought to give you a good rivit head on both sides, and leave it loose enough to let the loop move. You can tighten it up enough so that the loop is snug, but still moves relatively easily.
again, just a thought.

Keep up the good work!

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Your thinking is right on track with mine. The reason I was maybe looking at a 3rd pin/hole is that if you look I tend to do things as I go and the spacer is a little bit long towards the blade. I purposly made it long and the blade that I had imagined didn't fit as well as this one. As you know it is easier to take away than add so the extra length allows me to shorten or not as needed.

The saw that I mentioned has a notch in the blade that makes the loop strech or elongate a little to snap into place. If I spaced the pivot point right I could put a notch in the extended spacer to match in the open position. This would help in keeping the loop away so the blade wouldn't accidentaly get closed on it.

At the moment this project is set aside because it works ok in its present state and I am afraid of messing it up if I change it!

Another thing this has lead to is anodizing. I have thought about a 7 day set with a different color for each day. I have just started to research anodizing and it sounds like something better to do in the summer as my garage is unheated and it wouldn't be good to do in the basement.

Tim