Should I install a 3rd pin?

I'm making a set of scales from ebony for an early W&B blade. I do not have the original scales to copy. The width of the tang has .055 taper between the pivot pin hole and the thickest portion of the tang that will enter the scales. That is a lot of washer thickness to make up on either side of the pivot pin and looked poorly in the mock up. Without the washers the blade will not stay in the scales. Kind of like squeezing a watermelon seed. I slipped a blind pin in between the scales and it held the scales apart so the razor opened and closed smoothly. Is that the correct approach to this problem? Should the 3rd pin be peened in place or blind and held in with epoxy?
The pivot pin hole was also large so I made up a brass bushing based on Gsixxgun's sticky.
Any advise?
Thanks,
Karl

There shouldn't be any "washer thickness" to make up. Are you using a wedge or a spacer on the fat end of the scales? If it is a spacer, that's your problem. If it's a wedge, make it more wedge-ier. It's the wedge that gives the scales their outward bow and the bow gives the scales their strength.

Maybe a picture of your setup to help explain your situation?

here's one of mine. It's not a great picture, but it kind of shows the wedge and resulting bow. It really needs to be even more wedge-y. Make you wedge narrower than you think on the narrow end.

There would be nothing wrong with installing a 3rd pin, but beware it is a meticulous job. Someone once said the 3rd pin makes more trouble than good, unless done properly. Apart from that, and without pics, it sounds like you are choosing the same approach that I would use.

That said, the inner plastic tube from a regular bic pen makes a suitable inside spacer, and I always peen it in place like the others.

Best of luck.

Edit: After reading Glen's excellent post below I shall have to retract this post - my opinion just changed :D. As these were the words that fell, will not delete it so as not to obscure the convo for future readers.

I would stay away from a 3rd pin on the W&B... Here is why

Here is the test for them I use... Mock up the razor using Microbolts before the final pinning nice and tight just like it is going to be when pinned ...
Looking down into the razor gap, watch the flex of the scales as you open and close the razor very slowly... You are going to find that the older W&B's have a rather steep tang angle and that they flex a bit more than say a DD... That amount of flex is what creates problems when installing the 3rd pin :( If the razor and scale marriage has a good amount of flex I stay away from 3rd pins regardless of the maker, but I have found that most Sheffield makers have a bit more of that tang angle...

Look at this thread I explain it in there a bit

http://straightrazorpalace.com/custo...d-acrylic.html

Would not do it as it is not really customery for most W&Bs to have 3rd pins,thats just me tho.

Tapered a lead wedge, tightened it up with the mircobolts and it looks like it was the answer. I new those old .69 cal. lead balls were good for something besides shooting. Flatened it out with a hammer and tapered it. Didn't really want the 3rd. pin anyway. Thanks for the advise. Think if I have to make more lead wedges I may make a mold and cast some.