I don't know if the std. plumber's tubing cutter is too big or if the tension required to us is more than a grip on the tubing can successfully rotate. How are you guys cutting your tubing? Keeping it from collapsing, etc?
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I don't know if the std. plumber's tubing cutter is too big or if the tension required to us is more than a grip on the tubing can successfully rotate. How are you guys cutting your tubing? Keeping it from collapsing, etc?
I have always used the regular dremel cutting disc. I am sure you will get some ideas from the members.
I will roll it back and forth under a single edge utility razor blade till it cuts, or use a jewelers saw.
Charlie
+1 on this; I then use a jeweler's file to bring it down to exact fit.Quote:
Originally Posted by lz6
Gentlemen, Thank you so much!
I appreciate your kind help.
Lots of ways to do it,this is what works for me.I bore out the usually oblong pivot hole with a carbide burr that is exactally 1/8 in. dia.,tap in a pce of 1/8 in. tubing.Cut it almost flush with maybe 1/64 overhang on each side,I use a very fine jewelers saw also.,Than using an oversize carbide burr, I create a conical shape on each end of the tube.
Using my pinning hammer,I than peen it down to fill the usually dished sides, works for me,
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b3...one/sleeve.jpg
Another view.
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b3...espivot002.jpg
Here is how I do it. my method is quickest using a disc sander.
http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...e-sleeves.html
I also prefer to use a jeweler's saw, and then file it to the exact width.Quote:
Originally Posted by spazola
In all of the restorations I have done it is rare to find a pivot hole in a razor that would be considered 'sized correctly' and if we were to take apart razors we consider functioning properly I would expect that many, if not all of them have over sized pivot holes. If the size of the hole were an issue I believe that this 'issue' would have been address by the manufacturer's long before we got our hands on these razors. Put bushing in the holes if you like but I do not see any earned value for the effort other than to satisfy the restorer that all 'issues' were addressed. My take is "If it's not broke, don't fix it". the fact that a razor is being restored usually means that something was broke but I would venture a guess that the pivot hole was not the cause due to the fact that most razors have pivot holes in the same condition and they are functioning properly. The question now is "Does reducing the size of the pivot hole cause any future problems?". I don't know but having the blade float in the scales may aide in it's function.
I agree, the blade should somewhat float in the shaft,but if it is elongated from years of wear that to me is an issue.
Do not want them clicking back and forth.
Another way to keep the tube from collapsing during cutting is to fill the void with a smaller rod, like putting a 1/16 rod inside a 3/32 tube. If you need to file or sand the bushing before installation, that little scrap of rod can also help keep the thing in the proper shape. The dremel cut-off wheel is still probably the best way to go.
Incredibly helpful, Gents. Thank You so much.
Simple easy test for pivot holes I use.. to also answer the question of why bother..
If you are reusing the old scales or some like them, then you probably don't need to take in the slack because the scales have more then enough room for it.. However many of us that make custom scales out of synthetics or very stable materials take pride in a much tighter fit between razor and wedge, this no longer allows for that slop..
I NEVER drill them out first off, that just me, although I might de-burr the really bad ones
I have two sizes of brass tubes for filling them, the smallest most often used is 1/16 id x 3/32 od if it won't fit in the hole then it doesn't need a bushing IMO, I can build the scales within that tolerance.. If the tube fits into the hole then I cut it with a Jewelers saw and file to fit..
The next size of course is 3/32 id x 1/8 od and fits over the smaller one if needed on really bad holes I think I have used it maybe 10 times total out of quite a few restores..
Anyway like everything else in this hobby YMMV or in this case Your Tolerance May Vary :p
ps: Also keep in mind these holes are often not straight so make sure that when you use a tube/bushing that it is straight, btw that might cause more problems then you know because the older Sheffield razors that used the punch method of making the holes might not have a straight tang either hehehe see it really isn't so easy if you want things done right..
Never thought of using tubing to bush a wonky hole. Just use some metal two part epoxy to fill it in and then drilled a new hole.
Bob
Yea JB Weld has worked for me, so has sleeving, but be weary of perfect 1/16th holes - they often exacerbate any 'off-centredness' and leave you with 10 degrees of wonky-ness to correct elsewhere.
I have also had a slightly-bent or swollen pin lock to the blade when trying to get things too perfect. I used to run a 1/8 mill and alum pop rivet in them. I would tap out the mandrel and grind off excess. Drill it out this way or that to center things. Never made any difference, IMO. Mostly Nowadays, I just go with it! An extra spacer does it!
Workshop thread? ;)
I slide 1/16 rod inside the tubing and cut through the tubing with flush cutters and then file it down to the correct length - works for me