Black Devil (Mertens&Heider)

Hey there,
a restoration I finished yesterday,... due to the name I wanted to give it a bit of demonish look

the original:
Attachment 131988

new scales in progress (ebony), the original Idea was to make little horns at the end (you can see the space lined for these with yellow pencil)
Attachment 131989

..cleaned the blade
Attachment 131990

..and the final product is here.. ebony scales, padouk/maple spacer, tung oil finish, as you can see ditched the horns idea and went with a different form, I wanted the "BLACK DEVIL" sign to be seen when the blade is closed in scales
Attachment 131991

Attachment 131992

Attachment 131993

Attachment 131994

Attachment 131995

Attachment 131996

.. honed it so I'm taking it for a test shave today :)..


..any thoughts?

Looks cool, nice job! Collars and pins would look better IMO

Cool - just a thought... There is a lot of curvature to the razor when the handle is open. Is it easy to hold and strop comfortably? Usually, while you want the monkey tail covered by the scales, it still needs to come out a little starighter to hold and flip comfortably while stropping.
Also - either pins or micro torx fasteners would compliment all your hard work more.
That said - i still thinks it is a great job. Well done.
Adam

Looks great

thanks guys,.. glad you liked it,..

I actually agree on the hex screws thing, the problem is I can't seem to find any torx fasteners here, will probably order them from microfasteners,

have never done a razor it that way, if I understand correctly I need 2 screws and a "tube" (sorry don't know the expression) to screw those 2 in? What are the widths used for this tube,.. I'm guessing it's more than 2 mm (5/64")..

would anyone bo se kind and please give me some directions/links of the screws usually used, recommended (as well as "tubes" that go with it) at microfasteners

as far as the curvature is concerned: the main reason for this was the BLACK DEVIL sign on the tang, when stropping you can feel it a bit of curvature..


have a nice day :)

You've done a nice job! Especially since you just started out of the gate!

Lewis did some scales that are very similar, but a little more functional (IMO). I have a copy of the picture with his custom razor in those scales, but I'm a Mastodon with this computer stuff! Please send me a PM! I'll tell you how to get the picture! Then you can post it for comparison!

With all this said, micro fasteners would look better, however I had a razor that I'd bought and it had the micro fastener at the pivot and I hated it. It was replaced!

Give me age old and time tested pinning any old day!

Again get a hold of me!

@cudarunner: pm sent :)

as far as the pinning is concerned,.. I only have 1 new and pinned razor (Dovo flowing) and I must say I like the screws better, but I agree completely that razor would look much better, but as said in previous post, I have some problems with picking the right screws and all, I would appreciate me some help with this very much :) .. there are some links in this post (click) about these, but the links are unfotunately outdated and the codes retrieve no results in microfasteners search..

have you glued the wedge in to the scales? If not, you should take it all down (which won't be hard since it's not peened together) and thin down the scales from the inside so you don't mess with your nice finish.

I fully understand that at times it can be hard to work your way through the Forum.

This site is run by volunteers and they do a damn nice job of it!

With this said, the workshop has the up to date information that you seek as far as micro fastener, pinning supplies etc.

http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...wers-here.html

Interesting scales design, same opinion about the pins, like eveybody, nice work, Enjoy!

@TwistedOak: yes scales are a bit too thick aren't they... was not sure about that, but since i don't have a belt sander I was a bit afraid I might damage them, plus since the finish isn't totally equal (thickness-wise) I am afraid that scales might curve unevenly if too thin.. maybe I'll give it a try when I get new torx fasteners... (ps. wedge is not glued in)

cudarunner: I've been looking through this post, and links and the most informative was this one Nuts and Bolts and Washers oh my From Microfasteners..., but as said before, the links from the post are outdated, and I can't seem to find the right fasteners and "tubes"

so to make my question a bit clearer I made this scheme,.. so 2 systems,.. :
A: the screw axle goes into the eg torx closed caps
B: the axle is a tube with thread and 2 eg torx screws go inside the "tube"

Attachment 132012

If system B is the case, can you get the "axel tube" that is 2mm wide (it should fit within the pivot hole in the blade)

Wow, great restore. It looks fantastic. I like the shape of the scales and the finish too. Well done.

Stu

let me refine my questions :).. (hope this is not too off topic yet)

if I understand correctly the "system B" from my previous post is the one usually used when screws are used on razors? when I managed to convert US to metric dimensions these were the smallest screws SBXS0202 - 2-56 X 1/8 - Button Head Screw - 6 Lobe Drive - Stainless - Micro Fasteners ? .. they are 2,2 mm in diameter, meaning that the "pivot tube" is thicker?

my question would be : is there any way of doing this without having to drill the blade (getting the pivot of app 2mm in diameter, and eg still use torx rounded screws (system B) or torx rounded caps, as I draw in previous post (system A kind of)?

I know it has been written in previous threads before but I somehow can't seem to get it... sorry

ps. this screws above have a 5 star hole and not the 6 star (torx - Torx - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia)?

edit: @Str8Raz0r: thanks

Looks good, Interesting scales design.

@kalerolf: thanks,.. amd trying to work through the screws problem but it doesn't seem to go anywhere :D ... just now I recieved some info that is going to get the things going :)

If you lay some sandpaper on a flat surface (doesn't have to be hone surface flat) and as long as you distribute the pressure somewhat evenly along the scale I bet you could get it down to a better width without interrupting the flexibility at the thinner spots.

maybe I'll give it a go when I'll get the screws, thanks