Hi :)
Im struggling along here with fairly ordinary results from honing (sometimes spectacular, but I'm not sure how I acheive this). Is there anyone in the CQ area that might be able to give me a demo on how its really done?
Cheers,
Aidan.
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Hi :)
Im struggling along here with fairly ordinary results from honing (sometimes spectacular, but I'm not sure how I acheive this). Is there anyone in the CQ area that might be able to give me a demo on how its really done?
Cheers,
Aidan.
G'day Aiden,
I'm in Gladdy but definitely no honing guru, I can get an edge most times first go eventually, I know your frustrations I have rehoned about 20 or so of my blades all from different states from near touchups to full bread knife back back to bevel set to shave ready.
It took me at least 1.5 hrs to get my Brunoblade up to scratch last night from bread knife to shavable
I use the combination 40 circles & X strokes method from the vids here (GSSixguns or Lyn's forget which it was after watching so many vids lol)
What are you using and trying to do touch ups or complete bevel sets?
I use my old chisel honing norton 220/360 oil stone for extreme bread knifing etc
Nani 1k for bevel setting
Norton 4k/8k
Then Nani 12k for finish
Strop on felt & leather big daddy (no pastes etc)
Regards Dion
You must have used a lot more than 40 circles then if it took you an hour and a half :) Maybe I just havent set the bevel properly yet? I'll give it a bit more work and see what happens. I was hoping there was a guru within driving distance that I could go watch :)
G'day Aidan
That would be 40 circles at a time, not total. :)
When it comes to multi strokes , be it circles or whatever it may be helpfiul to break it down to smaller numbers as you go, eg 3 circles per side or 3 backnforth strokes if you use those, until you get to X strokes. The greater number of strokes on one side the more likelyhood of forming a burr.
I won't say it's crucial , it's just what I do.
It may sound trite but once you set a good bevel the rest follows quite easily & you can expect to do fewer as well as lighter strokes as you progress to the final stone.ie assuming you go beyond 8k.
Thanks Onimaru, that doesnt sound trite at all. It sounds sensible. I think thats where I'm falling over.
The few i have achieved spectacular results on required a lot of work to establish a decent bevel to start out with and the razors I'm trying to hone now are just touch ups but I don't think I'm putting in enough effort to actually reset the bevel. Perhaps I have grown slack :P They feel sharp to start with, but when i start going through the higher grits they go dull. I might be misinterpreting a bur as a sharp feel at the bevel setting stage and then rub it off on the finer stones??
Really hard to make any judgement on what's happening but a simple miscued stroke can set you back even at higher grits.
If indeed only a touchup is needed. The bevel should not need work. If it does it's not a touchup.
If you have created a burr it should disappear with higher grits. It's actually harder to create a burr with razors as opposed to some knives but I like Lynn's technical term 'sparklies'. :) You can see the edge reflect sparkly light if the edge is not it's smoothest or when looking in sillhouette the edge can appear ragged. Some may interpret this as micro chipping but it's not. A loupe of some sort is crucial to see what I'm talking about but I've also heard it said that the Naniwa SS can give the illusion of the edge being less sharp as you hone. Don't know what stones you are using.
The shave test of course will confirm if your edge is right or not.
Definitely several hundred circles & strokes from bread knifed at 45 degree to get the edge straight then set the bevel and the Spanish point was a b!tch to get set to the very tip,Quote:
Originally Posted by Lazarus78
I then started at 4 layers of tape (7/8" with 1/4" spine) to set the edge then dropped to 2 layers through to the 12k for now, my intention is to drop it to 1 layer of tape later.
I even tried a bit of pyramid action with the Circles once the bevel was set on the Norton 4/8 & Nani 12k for a bit of experimentation
most touch ups back to bevel set take me an hour max on the smiling blades less for straight edges.
Do you have a loupe or magnifier to check your edge for less than $10 delivered from eBay etc for a 30x is a great investment
It should shave your arm hairs along the full edge when the bevel is set then progress to,the finishers etc
I have two loupes, 10x and 30x. eBay is such a wonderful thing :)
I have a DMT325, naniwa 1K, norton 4/8k, some piece of C12k i got from whipped dog to have a look at once (which I dont use), a Swaty and a shapton 16k.
I don't think I have any kind of burr action happening, but after i finish cleaning my house this afternoon I might go pay a good amount of attention to setting the bevel back properly. I have decided to go for no tape as well, which will no doubt add a few strokes onto what's required. It would probably have been just a touch up if i didn't have one of those poorly executed strokes to set me back earlier in the piece :P
I'm also thoroughly spoiled by Jimbo's edges, so i might set my goals a little lower to start with too :)
If tape was used before you will easily set a new bevel in less than 5 minutes on 1k if the razor is still shaving.Quote:
Originally Posted by Lazarus78
You should get uber sharp on a 16k Shap but Jimbo's Jnat may be a tad smoother :)
I really find the difference from a 12 or 16k & a Jnat is not so vast, especially if some pastes are used sparingly after the synth.
Maybe 1-5% less smooth feeling in the shave. I could easily live with it if I never owned a Jnat but some of us chase the %ges.
Aidan,
how did you go with this, did you sort it out and get any success or saftisfaction at least yet?
regards
Dion