Thread: 51 MG restoration.

Get the points and condenser for the distributor, Mike. Make certain the timing is on..
Good to get that all done right before carb work.
Just me!

Timings on my list too Tom.
Points and gaps, brrrr, been a long time.
Carb tear downs intimidate me less. Hehe.
Book says timing should be 4’ btdc. I have yet to find any timing marks on the flywheel pulley though for reference.
Will pull all the plugs, check compression, and get 1 to tdc and clean off some rust. Take a closer look.

T
The timing pointer may be on the bottom of the timing cover. You have to get to it from under the car.

I forgot that you have a TR engine. I was thinking back to a 65 MGB I had - the timing pionter was on the bottom.
I have a TR4 engine at my shop, I'll take a look at it and get back with you.

What luck, Mike! Tom will help set the timing. Proper point gap, check the advance mechanism and lube it up. Then set the distributor.
Then see to the carbs?

Another thing to check concerning the timing. The rubber diaphragm in the vacuum advance may have come to the end of its' life
span. With the distributor cap of (so you can see what is happening) remove the rubber hose from the advance chamber, put an open
ended hose on the connection, put the other end in your mouth (or a vacuum pump) and suck on the tube. You should see the plate the
points are mounted on move. No movement, bad diaphragm.

MikeB52,

This has got to be one of the most interesting threads on the forum. I've never done foreign cars but was raised on a farm just South of San Antonio, Texas and remember helping to do overhauls on 8N Ford tractor, '49 Ford flathead 6, '50 Chev. inline 6, '56 Chev. V8 station wagon, '55 Chev. Bel Air 2dr hardtop, '57 Ford Fairlane and probably others I'm forgetting. Some of those helping my Dad (drive it till it can't be fixed again) but the last couple were mine.

Lot of good memories come back when I read this thread since I can actually understand what is being discussed!! Now I just take it to the shop and let someone else do most things.

Please keep this thread going until the restoration is complete. Sounds like there are several very knowledgeable folks following this so it should be very informative.

Just know that I'll be lurking.

Thanks for the info gents.
So I flipped through the triumph manual and found the below.

Already converted to electronic, cool.

Yup, there’s the optical pick up instead of points and gaps. Yeah!
Note the vernier aluminum knurled knob, just on the bottom right of the distributor.
That rotates the entire pick up, including the vacuum advance 4’ per full rotation. Basically dial in the timing with that knob. Book recommends doing that “on the road” to account for wear, octane, etc.
And found the timing marks!

Thought the little hole in the pulley was from rust at first, but nope, that’s TDC on #1.
Hole is advancing towards the pointer as engine rotates clockwise as viewed.
Looks like I’m a little too far advanced at the moment.. and have more block cleaning to do.

Glad folks enjoy this thread as much as I enjoy recording my discoveries and challenges..
Great archive for when I need to go back as well..

Good to have that conversion, Mike! You or someone you know should have an inductive timing light?
Even the old type which goes in-line on #1 will work. set it and rev the engine to see it advance.
Good call on the vacuum advance, Tom! Is there a mechanical one there as well?
Lots of old cars I see have the vacuum hose on the wrong port. Check that port and make certain it is providing ported vacuum (or manifold vacuum) as-required. Tom should know which.
If on the wrong port it could cause the timing to retard instead of advance.
The advance is mucho importante.
That knurled knob is neat!
So is it for adjusting vacuum advance, or total timing?
Am thinking it may be for adjusting vacuum advance and rotating the dist is for base timing.
I have no idea. Again, Tom will know!

The vernier knob adjust total timing. Vacuum advance works independently and above what that knob adjusts.
As I turn the vernier full clockwise, the vacuum retracts into the distributor and the rotor disk rotates counterclockwise accordingly.
Turn the knob counter, and the vacuum advance housing moves out and the rotor disk rotates clockwise advancing the timing.
Dialed it back to 4’ and no more stutter or hunt.
Must have fiddled with it during my initial cleaning..
Runs smooth, and strong now.

Lots of good info. Love reading this thread. Brings back a lot of memories of things ive done in the past. Now days i just drive vehicles that need no work. But in the past i remember sucking on the tube to check the diaphram, setting up points and gap, setting timming, and most all the work youve been talking about. If my body would agree with me i think id buy an old car again, just for the fun of working on it again. But, id end up hurting myself worki g on it so it isnt going to happen. Keep up the good work and watch the pocket book.