Printable View
Not really a knife guy but saw this and just love vintage stuff, from what I can gather this particular Ka-Bar 1207 was made from the mid 60’s until the 80’s but not 100% sure, the knife upon looking at it closely was used rarely and has been sharpened at least a few times but is in overall great condition so just wanted to share
Attachment 297844
I had one of those years ago. Broke it throwing into a tree. Young and dumb!
Boy! That's pretty! :tu
I had a Boy Scout knife from the 60s that looked a lot like that. Unfortunately, I did not take sufficient care of it and the blade rusted and the handle came apart. over the past 50 years.
Thanks guys, like I said I’m not really a knife guy and I surly struggle to sharpen one, I have tried and tried to get a decent sharp edge on a knife using a 1K Naniwa then 4/8k Shaptons and still struggle but it’s all free hand sharpening.
I don’t really have much of an issue honing a razor but as we all know that’s all different so with that said I am considering something like the Wicked Edge or the Edge Pro but those are pretty pricey but then I paid more for my razor hones than either of these systems.
Are you going to use it? A pocket-folding DMT is for that. Just me. I love the stacked leather handle. So natural-feeling.
Belt sander followed by a pasted leather belt with some compound is what I use for my knives. Easy and very fast. I use a harbor freight 1x30 ($50 +/-) leather belt for the same is $25 or so with the compound. 220 grit followed by the leather belt with compound for deburring will give you a very serviceable knife edge. You can go much higher if you like. But done right will shave arm hair easily. An edge guide can be bought or made. I bought mine but don't use it any more.
Get the fine folding DMT! :DQuote:
Originally Posted by sharptonn
I find the naniwas too soft for knives, your stroke needs to be perfect otherwise you ruin the edge when you dig into the stone.
I use a 325 dmt for corrective work or to set an initial bevel followed by a 1k dmt. Hand sharpening a knife or any tool takes practice, maintaining a consistent angle is key. Pretty easy to wipe away an edge especially on lower grit hones. I’ve taken to using diamond pastes for my chisels and hand planes. Set a bevel at 1k then 6um, 3um, 1um. I use 3/4” mdf as a “hone”. I initially lap the mdf on a flat surface with 220-320 grit sand paper then blow it off with compressed air and a stiff bristle brush. Then I put dabs of the paste all over the hone. A little goes a long way.
I’ve sharpened my edc and hunting knives with that set up and they get crazy sharp but I find a 1k dmt edge is good enough and way less time spent honing. I touch my edc up 1x a week, takes about 20 seconds. I found if you don’t let the edge get away from you you spend way more time cutting and way less time sharpening.
For knives on the mdf home you need to use a stropping stroke. Edge leading you tend to dig into the mdf and then you need to start over.
I may be an ' Old Fuddy Duddy' but in my humble opinion my old reliable Norton Tri Oil Hone is the only way I'd sharpen 'Any Knife'.
Not my pic:
Attachment 297889
Old fuddy-duddy being key! :beer1:
If a system isn't broke don't fix it! I've been using that Norton System since 1977 or so when I was a meat cutter.Quote:
Originally Posted by sharptonn
I can still get replacement stones for it which now include Arkansas stones.
I can also get all of the parts should any need replacing and I mean ALL the parts, oil tray, feet, cover, the unit that holds the stones. You don't see that very often these days so they must have a faithful following. Well at least 'Old Fuddy Duddy's' :w
Scandi grind it then you can hone it like a razor :oQuote:
Originally Posted by Jnatcat
Mate, I quickly looked up this 'Scandi Grind' and found several informational sites/videos. Could you post one that you feel is correct? I for one would trust your judgement.:bowQuote:
Originally Posted by onimaru55
You just lay a scandi grind on its bevel and hone, just like a straight! Most scandi grinds are honed improperly.
The problem for me is I just don’t sharpen knives enough to be good at it, I currently own like 5-6 knives and several of those have bayonet lugs for my M1’s and were purchased from the CMP and were old unissued stock then I carry a Benchmade or a very very small pen knife and of course the one I originally posted here that I will carry in my Jeep and that’s pretty much it.
The Mrs has some very nice Wusthof Classic kitchen knives that I have occasionally taken to my 1K but I try not to do it often as I don’t want to ruin them so that’s why I am considering something like the WE or EP system, I know it takes a lot of the skill of sharpening out of the picture but also takes me ruining a nice knife out of the picture as well and to be honest I have paid more or the same for one JNAT as the system costs but I may just practice more and save the $$$$ but the Mrs has been hounding me to give here some Xmas ideas so we will see
Scott nailed it Roy. You basically hone the whole bevel.Quote:
Originally Posted by cudarunner
I suppose here, we'd call it a true wedge but often a scandi knife for hard use will get a microbevel.
