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Or projects plural as I know the first will not turn out right. LOL. For me, the trickiest part will be the DEEP and THIN hollow grind, What would you more experienced chaps suggest, a "western kami" style fixed razor or a more traditional folding razor?
It is 6 of one or half dozen of the other, do what makes you happy.
Charlie
So I gather from this that the answer to my question "should I make a fixed blade or folding razor" is yes. :rofl2:
As far as making them, there is really no difference...it's a preference thing. IME, making a fixed blade can be more tricky to get the ergonomics just right compared to following a more traditional designed folding razor. I keep an old cracked wade & butcher in the shop just for folder pattern...to start with. I start out with a simple design in mind and as I forge and grind it takes a design on it's own before it's done. I have a folder here on my computer that has a LOT of different designs that I like. Sometimes I will refer to that folder to start something out, but it hardly ever ends up that way. I started out more traditional & fancied up the spines on my first ones...most of my first fixed blade razors ended up as "shop knives" or with my leather guy for leather cutting as the ergonomics weren't right. Think it through, get some 1/4 x 1 high carbon steel, and have fun!
Thanks for the input. I think I will go for the folder just so I can jump right in. I am set as far as steel goes. I will use my 1 inch old Schrade 1084 stock for the first attempts. As for "shop knives" I know of what you speak., sir. My first 50 attempts either became ugly shop knives or went into the land fill. My epiphany was when I decided there would be no more attempts to "fix" blades. That caused me to slow down and within 3-4 attempts, I had my first blade suitable for public consumption that I gave away in a KITH. For some reason, perhaps a mild case of masochism, I have kept like 5 of those early shop knives. Boy, howdy are they ugly.
My dad is currently searching his house to see if my grandfathers old straight is still around. Otherwise, I will buy a razor for a pattern. My only problem is that I just can't bring myself to buy one that cannot be used as intended, soI am still trying to figure out how much that costs. I had a nice, functional Wade and Butcher tagged on Ebay, but that thing ended up going for $275, so I should probably look elsewhere. LOLQuote:
Originally Posted by shooter74743
PM me your address and I will give you a junk razor for patterning. I think I may have a few old W&B's.
Blades that are cracked and/or are as ugly as my best friends Mama, go cheap. If shooter can't fix you up. Heck even one of those in the hall of shame that look more like saws would work. Just draw a straight line where the edge goes :<0) Remember, patience will pay off in the end. I actually used finishing belts on my first grind and that was an expensive way to go but the blade came out the way I wanted it too.
Actually, I do not like the practice of drawing a straight line where the edge should go, for 2 reasons. The first is that -for me- I think that I should be able to eyeball everything. Drawing lines and demarcations takes away from that and turns the craft into a paint-by-numbers type activity. Again, this is just my preference and opinion. When you start out you can do this to help you along the way. If you want to grow beyond that, eventually you'll have to learn to do without, just like you learned to use a bicycle without training wheels to keep you upright.
However, the 2nd reason is that I forge everything to size. By the time I start grinding, there is no such concept as drawing a straight line, because the entire thin is already razor shaped, more or less, and there are no straight lines anymore to act as a reference. With a piece of rectangular stock, it is easy to draw center lines. With a forged blank, not so much. You have to forge the blank so that everything lines up correctly, and grinding just serves to make the existing geometry thinner.