Randy, just down the street from you (so to speak) is Smith Sharpe Firebrick supply.
Smith-Sharpe Fire Brick Supply Home
If you call and get lucky you will talk with Donna, who has forgotten more about refractories than I think was ever known before. If she says you're good to go, go.
Plan on replacing the lining. Cerowools are lightweight and you will always risk banging a billet around on the inside, or someone like me generates a billet with leftover flux on it. Stuff will just eat the lining eventually.
I'd recommend buying (from Donna) a little bucket of castible refractory (works like concrete). Line your forge with the soft stuff then put a layer of hard castible in the bottom. You won't have to hold your irons all the time cause you can rest them on the bottom without hurting the lining. Anything that drips down there won't eat it up nearly so fast. You worked in my hard cast forge and that thing was probably 20 years old when you played with it. The hard cast stuff is much more durable. But it takes a long time to heat up. The optimum balance for small forges has been a light lining up top and a hard pan below.
She also sells a compound called MACOTE or something like it. It works like ITC100 but lots cheaper and it will stabilize any worries about particles. Be careful when applying any coatings to the lightweight insulators. They work better because they have air spaces between the fibers. If you crush all that down with a heavy coating, or mash it putting the stuff on, you lose some of the potential work from the insulator.
For the price, I think you're living up to your bargain hunting legend, and would not pass on this if you made the offer to me.
Let me know if you need help with any of the other specs.
