HELP I am getting an edge and then losing it

Hi guys new guy having fun making razors need help here. I am using 1095 steel flat stock profiling and initial grind heat treating at 1450 soaking for 15 minutes quenching in 11 second oil doing final grind hand sanding blades come out great my issue is I am not able to get a real great edge on some. I do a few passes on a 120 dmt then 320 with 2 layers of tape then I go to 1,000 with 1 layer of tape 40 circles and 25-35 x strokes,5,000 40 circles pressure 40 wob then 8k,12k,20k,crox,strop linen,stop leather.
Am I missing something just not getting that great close shave edge.

Thank you in advance for your help

1095 needs a very fast quenching oil. I use Parks 50 (around 7-8 seconds). 11 seconds is more of a medium fast oil which is great for 01 for example. (ex Parks AAA 11-13 seconds). I like to austenitize 1095 at 1475F. and quench as fast as possible, temper 2 hours at 400F.
Always remember with using 1095, the quench timing is very critical. With 1095 you have less than a second to get below 900F. on the curves.

As Max said: with 1095 you need to drop fast.
Also from your explanation something isn't clear. You say after quenching you hand sand. How thin is your edge section when you quench? You have to leave enough thickness near the edge in order to have enough thermal mass that you can get form the fire or oven to the quench before the te,erature drops below critical. If the edge is too thin, it is basically a cooling fin losing heat very fast.

My advice is always to leave 1/16 of thickness near the edge, and only optimize it thinner when your process is producing repeatable results. A razor that is ground too thin is literally impossible to harden.

I leave .045-050 edge thickness

That should do. As long as the edge is still glowing dark orange when you hit the quench, it's ok

Isn't that steel a candidate for water/brine quenching? I've never done it so don't quote me.

For those who know about such things, how does canola etc compare in terms of time rating for quenching? That's all I have used so far, and only with O1.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Atchbo

Isn't that steel a candidate for water/brine quenching? I've never done it so don't quote me.

For those who know about such things, how does canola etc compare in terms of time rating for quenching? That's all I have used so far, and only with O1.

---

I have quenched many different steels in the cheapest vegetable oil I could find.
I honestly think that for something with the thickness of a razors edge, it doesn't matter a whole lot. And I mean 'think' as in, I have quenched all those steels and made razors that have excellent hardness. In that oil I have quenched white paper steel, old file, O1, O2, Damascus, 1084, 52100, and Niolox.

When pieces get thicker, I can see it starting to matter because you need to get the heat out from inside the blade asap. But if the important part is only a mm and a half thick, that heat drops out of the edge near instantly.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Atchbo

Isn't that steel a candidate for water/brine quenching? I've never done it so don't quote me.

For those who know about such things, how does canola etc compare in terms of time rating for quenching? That's all I have used so far, and only with O1.

---

I have done a bit of quenching in brine and had mixed results with 1095. They were always hard, but hearing that "ting" is something I have learned to listen for and accept. You can't leave too much material to final grind if using brine, nor finish smooth enough for brine. I ordered a 5 gallon bucket of #50 yesterday in hopes of more successful HT's.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by shooter74743

I ordered a 5 gallon bucket of #50 yesterday in hopes of more successful HT's.

---

You will. I know I have never failed 1095 by using #50. It's always been consistent. As long as you dunk it like Speedy Gonzales.