I want to start making straight razors: design help needed

Hello everyone!

I've been making knives for a couple years as a hobby and really wanted to try to make a straight razor. Here is a base design that I drew up in CAD software.

Closed:

http://i.imgur.com/MnDxhoKl.png

Open:

http://i.imgur.com/PbBiM6s.png

I was planning on doing about a 3" blade out of 0.25" x 1" O1.

Is the tang an okay length or should it be shorter? And is the pin hole positioned in an okay spot on the tang?

Let me know if you need any more information on what I was planning and thanks in advance for your help! I'm really excited to try this out. :)

Benjamin

Do you currently have experience with straight razors? That will help alot, in that you can take direct measurements from what you like to use and add your own twist to it.

If not, that pivot looks a tad close to the blade. This will bring the blade close to the wedge, but I'm assuming that the scale was just a quick mock-up in CAD and actual fab will be to match the blade.

I'm actually 17 (about to turn 18) and don't really have enough facial hair that I need. I just have a lot of people I know who said they'd like to see me make one haha!

I'll move the hole back a little bit and lengthen the scales to match. You're correct, that was just a quick sketch so the actual scales would have a nicer curve and contouring. Do the lengths of the blade and tang look okay? I believe I saw that 3" blade is about the standard.

Thereabouts at 3" is good. It wouldn't be terrible to see if you can get a cheap razor from an antique store, etc. This will also help you see the contours of a razor. The most "important" dimensions in usability is an appropriate tang for gripping and the final grind of the razor to give the appropriate shaving angle. If you're more interested in a cosmetic rather than a functional razor, then those aren't all that important. The tail length can be just about anything, since they used to never be there and have grown to "monkey-tails" in the past. Check out the "shave of the day" threads as well as the "razor clubs" to see more razors and get some ideas.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by dinnermint

Thereabouts at 3" is good. It wouldn't be terrible to see if you can get a cheap razor from an antique store, etc. This will also help you see the contours of a razor. The most "important" dimensions in usability is an appropriate tang for gripping and the final grind of the razor to give the appropriate shaving angle. If you're more interested in a cosmetic rather than a functional razor, then those aren't all that important. The tail length can be just about anything, since they used to never be there and have grown to "monkey-tails" in the past. Check out the "shave of the day" threads as well as the "razor clubs" to see more razors and get some ideas.

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Okay sounds good. I definitely want them to be functional, it doesn't make sense to make something that can't be used well.

I'll keep looking at different shapes and stuff to get more reference as to what looks good and would function well. Once I start I'll definitely try to do a WIP thread or something. :)

Thanks for your help!

im currently making a razor for the first time, using the same steel. ill put some pics of mine up when i get a chance. Im basically winging the entire process, as i have never forged before haha. I think i have a good idea now of the process. If it doesnt work out i can still hang it on the wall!

Last question (for now :p)...

How far forward should I take the taper in the tang? About where I have the highlighted line? I saw that it's recommended to taper a bit into the blade so that the shoulder doesn't get in the way when honing.

http://i.imgur.com/aVf7EbF.png

I also put the pin hole a bit further back and adjusted the handle shape accordingly.

This has already happened so many times before.

Please buy a few razors and study them. Use them. It does not matter if you have whiskers or not. Shave lather off of your face. If you want any hope of making a remotely decent razor, then you have to understand straight razors and you cannot do that just by making a few of your own.

I did some extensive measurements some time ago on a Classic W&B FBU let me see if I can't find that file

But honestly as Ron said above getting a few Vintage razors and seeing how they actually function and work is the best

The most common mistakes I see on the Customs that cross my bench,,, especially from clueless knife guys (sorry but it's true)


#1 Have zero concept of how and why the wedge is actually a "Wedge"
#2 Scales are WAY to thick and do not flex, nor do they even know why they should
#3 Wrong Bevel angle Target is 16° - 17°
#4 The use of "Cool" super steels and using way too hard a temper
#5 Pivot to Tang ratio and fit is built for looks rather then function makes Stropping (Very important) awkward
#6 Balance is way off toward the scales again making Stropping and even Honing awkward
#7 Function over Form always and that function for a SR is NOT the same as a Knife


Anyway that is what I see way too often

A pet peeve of mine is those godawful torx screws that always come loose.
Traditional pinning is the best fastening method for a razor.

I have never made a razor but from your CAD rendition it looks like the "tang" or as some state the "tail" is way too long or out of proportion extending out wise beyond the scales in photo 1.

I will echo what others have said here................being a knife maker does not make for a good razor maker. Two different things altogether in my book. But I am not here to discourage you young man just to say do your homework on razor anatomy; buy a few old razors to study the geometry; play with the razors to get a feel of how a reputable well balanced razor is; then do some rough mock ups and learn from mistakes.

Like some stated don't buy into those hex screws as a way to pin a razor together! I thought I would like that but after having a razor with it it was rather annoying. Also I don't mind a spacer in place of a wedge if done right. My best razor that has held best has a spacer rather than a wedge. Bevels at 17 degrees and uniform and not looking like someone ground it out freehand in a grinding wheel!

A lot to learn but your 18 almost and many a year to do so! I wish I was 18 again and had the resources you young people have. I had a library and card catalog! I did not really even have internet in college until I was finishing! It would have opened up so much more for me I am sure.

Good luck and keep us up to date! Who knows......you may become another PRC or BBC!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by gssixgun

I did some extensive measurements some time ago on a Classic W&B FBU let me see if I can't find that file

But honestly as Ron said above getting a few Vintage razors and seeing how they actually function and work is the best

The most common mistakes I see on the Customs that cross my bench,,, especially from clueless knife guys (sorry but it's true)


#1 Have zero concept of how and why the wedge is actually a "Wedge"
#2 Scales are WAY to thick and do not flex, nor do they even know why they should
#3 Wrong Bevel angle Target is 16° - 17°
#4 The use of "Cool" super steels and using way too hard a temper
#5 Pivot to Tang ratio and fit is built for looks rather then function makes Stropping (Very important) awkward
#6 Balance is way off toward the scales again making Stropping and even Honing awkward
#7 Function over Form always and that function for a SR is NOT the same as a Knife


Anyway that is what I see way too often

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Great info, thanks! I'll definitely do one of the "classic" carbon steels like O1 and make sure that I have a design that works before I worry about the looks. Razor making is definitely a different beast than knife making but I'm excited to give it a shot for something different. If you find that size chart let me know. :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by onimaru55

A pet peeve of mine is those godawful torx screws that always come loose.
Traditional pinning is the best fastening method for a razor.

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I totally agree! I think they have their place but for a traditional razor pinning is definitely the way to go.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Michael70

I have never made a razor but from your CAD rendition it looks like the "tang" or as some state the "tail" is way too long or out of proportion extending out wise beyond the scales in photo 1.

I will echo what others have said here................being a knife maker does not make for a good razor maker. Two different things altogether in my book. But I am not here to discourage you young man just to say do your homework on razor anatomy; buy a few old razors to study the geometry; play with the razors to get a feel of how a reputable well balanced razor is; then do some rough mock ups and learn from mistakes.

Like some stated don't buy into those hex screws as a way to pin a razor together! I thought I would like that but after having a razor with it it was rather annoying. Also I don't mind a spacer in place of a wedge if done right. My best razor that has held best has a spacer rather than a wedge. Bevels at 17 degrees and uniform and not looking like someone ground it out freehand in a grinding wheel!

A lot to learn but your 18 almost and many a year to do so! I wish I was 18 again and had the resources you young people have. I had a library and card catalog! I did not really even have internet in college until I was finishing! It would have opened up so much more for me I am sure.

Good luck and keep us up to date! Who knows......you may become another PRC or BBC!

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Thanks for the input and encouragement, I really appreciate it. It'll be a completely different experience but I look forward to trying it out.

I shortened the tail by almost an inch and I think it looks better now.

Lets see if this loads correctly


Attachment 236009

That's really helpful! So the bottom of the tang is tapered thinner that the top, making it also look wedge shaped when looking from behind the tang?

Ummmmm Hmmmmm

Top to bottom front to back

This is all for a reason, as well as the scales flex, and the wedge size and angle

It all works together..

If you take a few minutes watching the "action" while opening and closing a SR it is rather interesting how all the parts work work in tandem...
Even more interesting is learning about the evolution of the designs from the 1700's into the 1800's and finally into the 1900's and the Golden Age of the SR's


It is all pretty cool to learn, and so many never take they time to even bother :(

Quote:

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Originally Posted by StarkKnives

That's really helpful! So the bottom of the tang is tapered thinner that the top, making it also look wedge shaped when looking from behind the tang?

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As Glen said: the number one mistake of knifemakers is making the spine too thin. The second mistake is usually that they think only in 2D outline, not 3D. Buy a couple of vintage Sheffield or Solingen razors on ebay (rust doesn't matter in your case so buy cheapo) and see how they move. Then tape them apart and measure things.

And learn to shave yourself, because without shaving you'll never know if something is working or not.

Notice most of the really good advise s to get some real razors and learn to shave. You came for advise there it is. If you want to build a quality product you must know how to use. Balls in your court now, so let's get n with the learning, or just build RSO,s and hang them on the wall. Good luck, but the best advise these guys are giving you should be listened to, they have been doing this longer than you have been around. Tc

Quote:

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Originally Posted by tcrideshd

Notice most of the really good advise s to get some real razors and learn to shave. You came for advise there it is. If you want to build a quality product you must know how to use. Balls in your court now, so let's get n with the learning, or just build RSO,s and hang them on the wall. Good luck, but the best advise these guys are giving you should be listened to, they have been doing this longer than you have been around. Tc

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Oh yeah, I totally agree. That's why I came here, to learn and figure out where to start. My plan is to get some steel and just experiment until I find something that works. I may even find someone to test them out for me to get a second opinion.