The nut on my angle grinder was stuck. I made a BFW. It is amazing how those lock nuts can get super stuck sometimes.
BFW next to factory wrench.
Attachment 344989
Printable View
The nut on my angle grinder was stuck. I made a BFW. It is amazing how those lock nuts can get super stuck sometimes.
BFW next to factory wrench.
Attachment 344989
That is a big wrench. I’ve had a few that were suck real bad too. I have never thought to make a better wrench though. I just usually wind up breaking stuff instead.
great idea. Make it perty and sell them. I bet you could make a killing.
That looks great but wouldn't a cheater of 1/2 pipe or so maybe 3/4 work on the factory wrench?
Box end wrenches work great for that also.
I was bending the factory wrench without a cheater bar. It was a round nut with four holes, no place for a wrench. I tried using a hammer and a punch to spin it off, I also tried a big pipe wrench, the pipe wrench would not bite.Quote:
Originally Posted by 32t
My grinder has a little button to press to keep it from turning when i take the disc off. Not sure if I could press it hard enough when using a wrench that big :)
I nearly sheared that pin off trying to get the nut loose on one. It bent it badly and bunged up the case. Wound up having to get another grinder and lost the wrench for that one. Bought a replacement one that is adjustable and sucks wet dog fur. One like Charlie's would be far preferable.Quote:
Originally Posted by tintin
The ad on this page is showing.
"The Bolder Is Better."
:rofl2:
Ive been in that spot.
Normally the button to hold it still fits in a hole so you just have to line up the hole and button and it wont turn. I think the last one i delt with that had the little holes in a round threaded washer i ended up using pin punches in the holds enough to get a bar between the pins and turn. They should be made with a head for a wrench.
Sounds like the nut used in hand buffing/grinding tools, too.
Yeah....PITA at times.
I can understand why, for those types. But not for a grinder like y'all use.
My problem is getting cramps in my hands and arms. For I'm the machine..:rofl2:
I have learned to put those nuts on a bit snug instead of cranking down.
They do get tighter as you go. I don't seem to have any issues any more.
What he said. I put the nut on just more than finger tight now too. The natural tendency is to overtighten.
I agree with you guys, about tightening the lock nut finger tight.
This time the problem was using a 7" grinder one handed (Red Green style) while hanging off of a ladder. I was cutting some structural steel and got the cutting disk caught/jammed multiple times. Sometimes, not very often, getting the wheel caught up can tighten the nut crazy tight. I am just happy the wheel did not break.
Yeah, a grinding disk makes a wonderful lock washer!
My 8" has a nut at the top of the brush etc. I think it is a clearance issue with the 4" and being for lack of a better term on the face of the wheel.Quote:
Originally Posted by Gasman
Oddly I've never had this problem with my angle grinders.
That is odd Victor
I laugh at videos.
Everyone uses a 4 inch grinder.
For anything!
Looking at Vintage tractors, you often find a Forgemade specialty wrench for THAT tractor, for one bolt on that tractor..
I always imagine an older gentleman farmer saying to himself, "That will be the last time that bolt gives me headaches" :p
I probably mentioned it around here before but I have a specialty wrench bent for removing the transmision of a 1970 to 1974 Opel Manta.Quote:
Originally Posted by gssixgun
If anyone wants to borrow it let me know!:rofl2:
I once used my 4" grinder to simply cut the nut from a 7" grinder, cutting it clean through right next to the axle.
The disc had grabbed into something and tightened the nut to where nothing with get it to budge and the holes started to develop some slack.
:rofl2::brunoisrightQuote:
Originally Posted by Bruno
I'm a millwright by trade. I have used 100's and 100's of grinding discs, zip cuts and sanding pads.
Often on a job site the supplied wrench is not available. Around us most of us carry channellock pliers. Those are used often. It's controlled and much safer then my favourite way when there is no wrench around.
With the grinder in your right hand with the disc facing left. Push the button in to lock the disc and prevent it from spinning, with great haste drive the grinder (disc) upwards into the edge of a table or some solid metal. This almost always loosens the disc and you can spin the nut off with your fingers.
You can do it the opposite way as well left hand, disc facing right and drive it downwards.
Caveat I have safety glasses on when I do this and the grinder is unplugged or battery is out.
I've saved myself and many apprentices long walks back to the shop when no one has a wrench.
Obviously I use the wrench whenever it is available. It's the best method of disc removal.
Universal spanner and extra nuts that fit any angle grinder that uses a 5/8"-11 threaded arbor. That includes most 4" to 7" handheld angle grinders.
https://www.amazon.com/Seamaka-Unive...grinder&sr=8-8
I also have an open end wrench to fit cup brushes.
The method in post 24 works pretty good, too, with a little practice.
I like to put a light coating of copper based neversieze on the arbor threads. It helps.
It definitely does. I feel it needs a disclaimer. DO NOT DO THIS ON DISCS YOU WISH TO RESUSE. IT WILL BREAK OR DAMAGE THE DISC.Quote:
Originally Posted by CrescentCityRazors
