It's built to very tight tolerances. I don't have a Bader, but I can't imagine anything better than my variable speed KMG. It's built like a tank. The drive and tracking wheels are slightly crowned and striated, as well.
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Bruno, check out Wayne Goddard's "The Wonder of Knifemaking" and "The $50 Knife Shop". There are some great ideas in there for making your own grinder on the cheap, and most of the questions you've asked are answered there, in wonderful detail. It's almost like being in his shop...and if you wonder if he knows what he's talking about, I can assure you he does.
I have been looking at Wayne Goddard's books and my scrap/stuff pile and thinking I might be able to make a small belt grinder. What size contact wheels would you recommend for razors? Would you use the same size wheel on a full hollow and wedge?
Thinking about tinkering,
Charlie
I'm currently grinding on an 8-inch wheel. For the size razors I like, it gives me the best results. I'm a big fan of the single concave, but with a very thin edge. You get the stiffness of a wedge, but the ease of sharpening (almost) of a full hollow. I'd guess mine are around 1/3 hollow. A larger wheel will give a less radiused grind (flatter, less hollow). You'd need a couple different size smaller wheels for a full hollow.
Heres another question what kind of buffer do you guys use? or do you use paste on belts
what type of wheel should be used in conjunction with a chrome oxide honing compound? (felt, spiral sewn cotton etc...)
Thanks Joe. I will check out Wayne's books.
Another Swedish grinder/beltsander:
http://www.nordellknives.com/eng/eng_bandslip.htm
(Prices in SEK)