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For forging razors and small knives, is a cross peen the preferred hammer? What weight is generally best for general work? Does anyone use the Hofi hammer or has anyone tried Uri Hofi's technique for hammering (I haven't seen his technique I've only seem teaser segments on Youtube for some DVDs detailing his hammering technique which is apparently different ergonomically that a traditional method of swinging a hammer)?
Thanks!
Chris L
I have limited (very) forging experience. I have had the best luck with a generic cross pein hammer. I have better control of the direction of stretch/mush with the crosspien. I especially like the cross pein when making the bevels, I get a lot less of the banana shape then I do when I use a rounded face hammer.
My two cents
Charlie
I think most blacksmiths would tell you that their main forging tool is a cross-peen. And it would only vary for heavier work that would require a slege hammer or a power slege hammer. When I was forging (not razors) I only used a 5 pound cross peen. And would use a hardy in the anvil or the anvil's edge to get some tighter shaping. But the hammer stroke was always with the cross peen. I don't think that you would need anything more than a hammer forge and an anvil to get the general shape of the razor shaped prior to moving it to the grinder.
Also, I think Robert Williams is a good one to direct some questions at regarding this ...
BTW I would love to do some forging but the majority of my tools and equipment is gathering dust in another county. Too expensive to bring my forge, anvils, and leg vises all the way to Japan :(, let alone find the space and time to set up shop. Maybe someday...;)
http://tbn2.google.com/images?q=tbn:...08/thor003.jpg
Helloooooooooo THIS one of course :D
So far I have been using a light weight straight peen to stretch out the tang and a Japanese blacksmith/american sawsmith style hammer to forge the bevels.I have tried using the cross peen for the bevels on the blade but it is to easy to hit to hard or at an angle which then results in a deep "divot" which can render the blade useless ( been there, done that). I am still in the process of making mistakes so take my suggestions with more than a grain of salt.
The major issue with forging is control. I watched Randall Graham forge out a razor blank very quickly with a BIG! hammer and every one of his strokes was very precise and controlled. It went very quickly.
Just my $.02,:)
I've recently watched a superb Blacksmithing primer DVD and the presenter, Randy McDaniel was forging a meat fork out of a strip of 3/4' x 1/4" hot rolled flat stock. The hanging end was tapered then curled around to form a circle for hanging on a hook. The middle section was kept flat for holding, then below the handle area, he rounded a section prior to splitting the bottom end for a fork. I mention this because after tapering the end and creating a shoulder but before curling the end around in a circle, the piece truly had a razor blank appearance. He used a cross peen. My big question is what weight is best for forging blades?
Chris L
My favorite is a Tom Clark hammer. It's about 2 lbs. I was going to paste a link only to go to the web site only to see that Tom Clark passed away in november of 2008. So no more hand forged hammers are available. When you first start out most have a tendenancy to use to heavy a hammer. Everyone is built differently so will require a different weight hammer. With lighter hammers you will find you have more control but move less metal. Heavier hammers move more metal but you have less control. You will just have to try different one's until you find the one that fits you best. Also a heavier hammer will cause you problems in the elbows in later years. I've seen some guys use a 5lb sledge hammer cut off the handle to about 12inches and that is all they use. I can smash a piece of metal with that but have a really hard time forging anything to shape so I don't use that heavy of a hammer. I still have one but rarely did I ever use it. I have about 4 or 5 different hammers from cross pein, to ball pein, a hand made one from Tom Clark, and just some home depot special's and some from a blacksmith's store. They all have a place, but my most used hammer is the Tom Clark one.
How strong is your arm? How good is your control?
Lighter is easier to control. I think the straight peen I am using is 2 lbs?
and the hammer is 3 lbs?
My arm is as strong as a wet noodle and my control? I could maybe hit the broadside of a barn.:D I'm willing to practice practice practice though.Quote:
Originally Posted by randydance062449
Chris L
Old World Anvils - Blacksmith Hammers
Likely if you wanted to wait a bit, Nathan would custom fit a particular type for you.
And,
http://www.dancingfrogforge.com/
http://www.brentbaileyforge.com/
http://www.elmerroush.com/html/hammers.html
Would this be any use in the big hammer stakes?
Might get the job done quicker:w
http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/i...er_forging.jpg
If you cover the shipping, I'll set that up at my place.:D;)
Chris L
Chris,
For general forging I like the Swedish Blacksmith style hammers. I have the Peddinghaus 1000g and 1500g hammers. You can get them at Blacksmith's Depot, among other places. (The have lots of different styles too.)
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f2...hhammer_1b.jpg
For forging bevels on knives, I use these two. The first is a Saw Maker's Hammer, and the second is a Cutler's Hammer.
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f2...ehammer_1c.jpg
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f2...shammer_1b.jpg
Very nice hammers, Chris. Thanks for taking the time to post the pictures. I really appreciate it. HA!!! take that you RAD and HAD guys, I've HammerAD!
Chris L
Chris,
If it's worth doing, it's worth doing right!
That said, I've not swung hammers by a forge since 1973, but when I did, we used a selection of cross peen hammers as well as a small selection of sledge hammers when doing two man forging. I learned a lot about beating metal senseless that year! :D
Regards
Kaptain "Watch the thumb...... WATCH THE THUMB!!!!" Zero
Very cool, Christian. I can tell you without a doubt though, my wife will NEVER allow something like that in our garage.:nono::td
Chris L
Ahhh, well there's your problem Chris!Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris L
Well, ChrisL had some fun playing with a variety of hammers this afternoon. It'll be interesting to see his impressions.
Christopher: I like those cutler's hammers.
Thanks again, Mike. I had a feeling hammers to anvil would result in me being bitten by the forging bug. Your hammers and your anvil confirmed it!:tu The good old 2# cross peen felt very natural. I liked the Hofi style as well.
My next step is to turn your venturi burner into a forge.
I'll definitely post pics of whatever hammer I get here.
Hot steel, my friends, hot steel. Visions of hot steel dancing in my head.:rolleyes:
Chris L
ChrisL, your doomed! The steel AD is the worst of them all!:gth
Now I gotta find a cutlers hammer!:gaah:
Ya know, Chris - if you got something like a mash hammer you wouldn't have to choke up on the handle. While they are primarily a mason's tool and the ones used for drilling have two faces so they don't have a straight or cross pein, they are short, thick, heavy, and speak almost with the authority of their older brother, Mjollnir. :medvl:
--be careful with the little brothers around your anvil; Mjollnir had a reputation of being a mountain crusher.;)