Help making a contact wheel

Guys, I have a favor to ask. I got my 2x42 grinder for Christmas and thought I could use the wheels on it to rough out my razors, but they are peaked in the middle and of course aren't going to work. I'm wanting to make one of Charlie's budget grinders. The only thing that's holding me up is the contact wheel.
I don't have access to a lathe or I'd turn my own, and the one remaining true woodshop we have around here makes cabinets and doesn't have a lathe.

I hate to ask here, but I don't really know where else to ask it. Would someone contract with me to make an 8" contact wheel? We can take it to PM, so there's no sales talk or anything in the open forum. I have these 9 blanks sitting here and if I don't get them ground soon I'm going to go nuts.

Sorry to the mods if this isn't right, but it's not like anyone in the classifieds advertises about making grinder parts. :). Move, delete, or modify as you see fit.
-Brian

No problem.
As long as the details are discussed in private, I don't mind.

Polyurethane Wheels | Drive Wheel | Polyurethane Products

This should be what you need. Lots of options available.

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Originally Posted by randydance062449

Polyurethane Wheels | Drive Wheel | Polyurethane Products

This should be what you need. Lots of options available.

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I got my wheels from Sunray I am a happy customer.

Charlie

I don't even know which one I would need? I'm kind of stupid when it comes to this stuff....

What make & model grinder do you have? Send a link if possible.
Would it be possible to take off the wheel on your grinder that is crowned ( peaked) and put it into a electric hand drill, turn on the drill and hold it against some sandpaper to remove the crown?

or, to build your own grinder

http://www.sunray-inc.com/detailwheels.aspx?ID=528

8" diameter by 2" wide.

You have to decide the hardness of the wheel, I would take 80A, and the shaft (bolt/axel) size, probably 1/2" ??

I have a Craftsman 2x42. I had thought about doing the sand paper thing with it, but I'm afraid I'd mess it up, then I' be in way worse shape.

Here's the grinder. I've modified it to have a ceramic platen and manual tracking. I also run norton blaze and trizact gator belts.

http://m.sears.com/productdetails.do...00P&sid=&psid=

I was wanting to make one of Charlie's budget wooden contact wheel, wooden pillar grinder contraptions. I just don't have a lathe or access to one to turn the contact and various sized drive wheels. I have these blanks, and if I can get them made, maybe I can work up to getting/convince my wife I need a GIB, Bader, or KMG.

You can use a hole saw mounted in a drill press to cut out various sized wheels but you would still need to true them up after the cut. They are not perfectly round, but very close.

106200 Products

and then you would need a covering for the wheel, plus either a bushing or a bearing.

A Sunray wheel begins to sound like a much better option especially for a drive wheel which may require a slotted keyway.

BTW, if you were to try to remove the "crown" on your existing wheel what would be the cost for a replacement wheel?

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Originally Posted by medicevans

I was wanting to make one of Charlie's budget wooden contact wheel, wooden pillar grinder contraptions. I just don't have a lathe or access to one to turn the contact and various sized drive wheels. I have these blanks, and if I can get them made, maybe I can work up to getting/convince my wife I need a GIB, Bader, or KMG.

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Brian,

Not sure what your budget is but these guys have a huge range of part and plans for Belt Grinders. I am considering ordering some bits from them at the moment. Unfortunately postage to Australia is a killer.

Stu

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Originally Posted by Str8Raz0r

Brian,

Not sure what your budget is but these guys have a huge range of part and plans for Belt Grinders. I am considering ordering some bits from them at the moment. Unfortunately postage to Australia is a killer.

Stu

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What guys Stu?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by randydance062449

You can use a hole saw mounted in a drill press to cut out various sized wheels but you would still need to true them up after the cut. They are not perfectly round, but very close.

106200 Products

and then you would need a covering for the wheel, plus either a bushing or a bearing.

A Sunray wheel begins to sound like a much better option especially for a drive wheel which may require a slotted keyway.

BTW, if you were to try to remove the "crown" on your existing wheel what would be the cost for a replacement wheel?

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Yeah.....Sunray starts looking better all the time.

I haven't looked into the cost of a replacement wheel, but it might be worth a shot anyway. Go slow and see what happens.

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Originally Posted by medicevans

What guys Stu?

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Sorry, forgot the link.

http://www.usaknifemaker.com/index.p...ex&cPath=99_60

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Originally Posted by Str8Raz0r

Sorry, forgot the link.

Grinder Parts, contact wheels : USA Knife Maker Supply, Operated by a knifenaker for knifemakers!

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Really a good outfit, from my experiences.

I've contacted sunray (they replied promptly) and requested a quote for contact wheels and a drive wheel.
They even ship to Belgium.

Ok, maybe won't make a stand alone grinder and use the other grinder to power it.

Well......I went out and looked at the wheel itself. I could mount the wheel right on the grinder if I want to cut some of the guard away. If I ran an 8" wheel I'd have to cut A LOT of guard. I may be able to swing a six inch wheel without cutting much of the guard.

Honestly though, if I can knock the crown off the current wheel, is a 4" to 6" worth it?

You probably cannot use a 6" wheel on that grinder. You would need to be able to shorten the distance between the wheels by a couple of inches to use the same belt length.

Regarding the difference between a 4" and a 6" I will let someone else with more experience answer that.
Charlie?

I use my 6" wheel the most, then my 4" and then my 8" wheel. I am not sure if the other people who grind razors use most.

Charlie

Randy, I would switch out the wheels and then make an arm with idler and run a 2x72 belt.

It seems though that now we are getting into more and more mods and more and more money. It's kind of pointless.

I think I will work on knocking the crown of the wheel first. Will a bare metal wheel be too hard to grind on?

Also, maybe a little bit off topic, but since it's my post I can do it. :) Charlie or anyone else, how do I grind a wide razor with a small wheel and not get it all wavy?

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Originally Posted by medicevans

Randy, I would switch out the wheels and then make an arm with idler and run a 2x72 belt.

It seems though that now we are getting into more and more mods and more and more money. It's kind of pointless.

I think I will work on knocking the crown of the wheel first. Will a bare metal wheel be too hard to grind on?

Also, maybe a little bit off topic, but since it's my post I can do it. :) Charlie or anyone else, how do I grind a wide razor with a small wheel and not get it all wavy?

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Wrap layers of tape around the wheel to soften the metal, it works better than you think it will.

How do you grind without wavy? The real answer is practice, every blade you do you will learn something new. I am still refining my grinding style I learn/practice every time I grind a blade.

Charlie

Um, what kind of tape? Electrical or duct?

It is looking like this weekend I'm messing with the grinder. :)

I like masking tape. I have 1" wheels so I used 1" wide masking tape.

Charlie

Brian, I have used old tyres stretched over the wheel for 'softening'. I picked up an old truck tyre from the local tyre place and just cut strips across the tyre. Then I stretched the circular strips over the wheel with a little contact cement for some added stick. I have three layers if rubber.

I also run 1" wide wheels.

Stu

Tried the smoothing and masking tape wrap. I have come to the conclusion that I suck at hollow grinding. Really really bad. I may just shelve the razor project or wedge one and go from there.

Would it be easier to wedge then hollow them since I have a not really well suited grinder/contact wheel?

Definitely wedge one, and then take it from there. It will give you a much better idea of the geometry while you're grinding.