I'm looking to mimic the look of the dovo bismarck razor where the spine has several notches; I'm assuming you custom cut the width of the belt and grind carefully. If anybody has any other ideas or insights I'd love to hear it. Thank you!
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I'm looking to mimic the look of the dovo bismarck razor where the spine has several notches; I'm assuming you custom cut the width of the belt and grind carefully. If anybody has any other ideas or insights I'd love to hear it. Thank you!
If you're just talking about the grooves on the spine, then you'll most likely have to use a file. There's of course is almost certainly done by a machine, but each set of grooves will have to be cut out with a file. Just take a set of calipers, and lay out the marks, be patient, and file away. There's a certain type of files used for that kind of detail work, the name eludes me right now....riddler file maybe? Something like that, anyways, they're small detail files.
+1, yes, a triangular file edge to cut the lines. Others might suggest a dremel tool with a cutting wheel, and that would work, but a file is slower and less prone to giving you an exciting experience making a mistake you didn't want. Clamp the blade carefully to hold it still. Good luck.
Full disclosure, I'm not a restorer or razor maker and I've never tried putting jimps in a razor. I did read a post by Joe Chandler years ago, where IIRC, he suggested using a jig saw blade up against the side of the tang as a template, so that your notches are more likely to be spaced uniformly. IOW, follow the saw notches in the jig saw blade when filing your spine.
Quote:
Originally Posted by JimmyHAD
Simply ingenious!
What are the best files to use? Aside from notch work I'd also like to add decorative vines and detail of that nature. Are diamond files the best? Could somebody recommend a set for me? Thanks!
Your razor's spine is HARD, so I would recommend daimond. I personally use stuff from World's Largest Supplier of Gun Parts, Gunsmith Tools & Shooting Accessories - Brownells
Go with less pressure so you will be less likely to pull the diamonds from the binder on the file.
Thanks for the info! Is there a specific model/set that you would recommend? I want the capability of doing notches like I said, but also extreme detail work like vines or a snake along the spine. Which model would suit me best? Thanks again!Quote:
Originally Posted by shooter74743
the only thing I can comment is from what my friends told me..if you DO go from a non barbers notch..to making one..if you had a full wedge..it wouldnt be a full wedge anymore..more of a "near wedge"..weight gets removed..but if you had a hollow ground I would worry about it being a bit lighter..though going im not sure if going from a near wedge to anything lighter after making a barbers notch..I dont know what it would be..hollow ground?
Types of grinds refer to the belly or concave of the blade surface. Barbers notch or not if you have a wedge it will remain a wedge.Quote:
Originally Posted by smalltank
For the OP, you may want to check out some engraving tools for decoration like vines ect. You are also going to have to temper the spine to a workable hardness for that kind of detail. IMO
I would venture a guess that most all spinework is done pre-temper,do not think you would have much success on an already hardend blade.
Interested in seeing the outcome. Please keep us informed(:-).
I hate to rain on your parade, but it sounds like you are wanting to really do some work on your razor. Most all of the razor spinework I am aware of, including the razors I have made, have all been done before heat treatment aka hardening of the steel. Your razor's spine at this time is as hard or possibly harder than many carbon steel files. What I am getting at is that you will be able to use a cutting tool like a rotary cutter (dremel/dental tool, etc.) and a small cutting wheel to cut notches and lines, but that's about it. Diamond files will do some cutting, but you will wear out most triangle type files rather quickly. You can also do some types of etching...but that is beyond my current knowledge base. I don't mean to discourage you in any way, but would hate to see you spend $117 on http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=6...D-NEEDLE-FILES and have higher expectations. Simply put: if you want to experiment, go for it. If you want a nice worked back razor, make one or buy one.
Unless it is done before HT, your best bet is indeed a dremel, with drum wheels and cutting wheels.
That, and a steady hand. Scooping out hardened steel with files is going to take ages.
Look at the time needed to set a bevel using a fast cutting synthetic stone. Only a minimal amount of steel needs removing, yet it takes quite a while already.
Removing big chunks of steel purely with manual labor will be much worse.
I'd go the dremel route, and then finish with sandpaper.
And use some disposable junkers to try out first.
Most file work is done pre-heat treat but there have been a couple of SRP guys who have done it post heat treat. As has been posted it would be done with a Dremel type tool. A friend of mine, Doc Molenaar, has done a lot of file work on his knives post heat treat. The tool that worked the best was a double cut carbide burr. Please note that it is a "double cut". A single cut is simply uncontrollable. Here is a link to a set.
Amazon.com: 8 - Pc. Double - cut Carbide Burr Set: Home Improvement
I am not endorsing this set, just showing you the "double cut" pattern on the tool.
To perform the "Vine and Thorn" pattern you need to have a blade that has not been hardened.
Here is a Vine & Thorn pattern I did a few years ago..........
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