Tom, you are correct, this whole experiment is about restoring a blade with the minimum, if any, metal removal. The very first blade I posted used only the electrolytic process and a tumbler with "polishing" compound, not rubbing compound. Total amount of metal removed was: NONE! I have concluded the electrolysis method is worthwhile for no other reason than to see if you have to go further. I recently tried the process on a W&B Extra Hollow Ground you sent me. Since I am no longer really documenting simple brown rust removal, I was amazed at the results. I have no before picture good enough to post but maybe you can attest the etching was nearly unreadable and there was significant rust above and over the etching. This is how it turned out with less than an hour in the vat. It may have been done sooner than that but I was working on something else and just let it go. Here is the picture:
Attachment 108365
If the blade were not cracked, it would take very little effort and metal removal to restore it to good condition.
I know nothing at all about buffing so this question may be stupid (when did that ever stop me?) but: If you can remove all the brown rust with just a few minutes of electrolysis, would it not only give you a better idea of just how much work is needed but also keep all that rust from gunking up your compound and thus extending its usefulness?
Like the above picture, the one posted earlier that took only 15 minutes in the vat and the original blade that started this whole thing, you never know if you need to start removing steel until you see what you have from this process. Sometimes, electrolysis is all you need other than light sanding and polishing.
My two cents and you can do with it what you may. I just think this process has a place in blade restoration and I am intent on proving it.
Randy