Btw, why would you quench spine down?
The edge is the business end. That's the most important bit, so it should go in first.
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Btw, why would you quench spine down?
The edge is the business end. That's the most important bit, so it should go in first.
I've heard it recommended a few times, Bob Allman is one who does it that way
Well I dont think I have anything to worry about.
My main concern was that if I had a hamon line, and I quenched spine down, that I didnt fully submerge the blade in the initial quench.
In my mind the result of that would be the edge not being as hard as it should be.
However I've just taken it to the hones.
The DTM 325 started setting the bevel OK but was leaving it very chippy.
The King 1200 was getting me pretty much nowhere though.
So if anything its too hard, which is good. Because I can just put it back in the oven a little hotter than the last temper cycle.
If anyone see's any holes in my ameture logic please let me know.
So I still cant explain the Hamon other than what Charlie said earlier, really I cant even be sure thats what it is until i polish further, but to answer Oz's question. If all goes well yes I'll probably etch the blade to bring it out.
Hopefully have a good looking and functional razor
Thanks
Grant
An interesting thread that is related to this one.
http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...tml#post857646
Charlie
The reason is as Charlie stated, and in the hamon thread. Old files are very likely low hardenability, very clean steels. That difference of 0.25 inch at the spine is enough to slow the transition during hardening to have a hard martensitic edge and a softer pearlitic spine. Hardening is a process that happens at the speed of sound in the steel. Just a little fatter area behind the edge is enough to make the difference in the structure, within the time allowed, or the addition of a little more manganese as in 1084 and you have a through hardened blade. Fascinating material eh?
That is going to make a fine looking razor....!