How sharp can a blade get?

This is my second thread. Many thanks to the people who commented on my ramblings in my first one

Firstly I must admit I prefer the name cut-throat razor to straight razor, but that is a thing of choice I guess. Maybe it's because it sounds a bit more daring and dangerous, but it has another side which is that it reminds you of how seriously dangerous the blade could be if not treated with the greatest respect or if placed in the wrong hands. My razors are on a high shelf in the bathroom because small hands seem to get everywhere.

Secondly, once again this website and forum have been completely invaluable to me in my journey with cut-throat razors. Some comments returned after my first post made me realise that although I thought my razor was sharp and was doing a good job it could be sharper. I sourced the recommended 3" Norton 4000/8000 waterstone in the UK (from www.classichandtools.com ) and bit the bullet and bought it for 50GBP. I justified the expense by considering how much I'd spent on M3 blades over the last few years and they ain't cheap. Anyway I got it the next day and put it to the test.

Now I know what it is all about.........

I am so impressed I'm even considering getting a 12000 grit stone to see if it gets even better. Will it make an equally significant improvement?

I've got a 12000 comming from Rucker for just that purpose. I've heard others writing about how they get blades that much sharper with it and I'm sure I'll be able to achieve the same. I'm wondering if there is a 'too sharp' place for me. I hope to find out. :D

X

I have a 12000 Kitayama and I don't know that it really makes the razor that much sharper but it really polishes the edge and makes it look real pretty.

As far as sharp goes I don't think any razor can be too sharp as they say sharp is sharp. Once you go too far you just get a wire edge and thats not sharp.

When you speak of a 12,000 grit stone be sure and obtain the Chinese 12000 grit waterstone from www.woodcraft.com. That hone I use for every razor that I sharpen. It does make a difference but it is very slow cutting. I usually need 50-100 laps on that hone. The degree of change is noticeable.
You might also want to consider the classic Belgian coticule waterstone as an alternative to the 12,000 stone.

I have no experience with the Kitayama or Shapton stones so I will not comment on those.

Hope this helps,:)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by randydance062449

When you speak of a 12,000 grit stone be sure and obtain the Chinese 12000 grit waterstone from www.woodcraft.com. That hone I use for every razor that I sharpen. It does make a difference but it is very slow cutting. I usually need 50-100 laps on that hone. The degree of change is noticeable.

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I purchased the 12000 fron woodcraft a while back really useful. But as Randy says it needs many laps. Well worth it though.

I've been thinking of putting that stone on my Christmas list. When you say that it takes 50-100 laps, are you doing any kind of a pyramid when you get to this point in the honing process, or do you abandon that after the Norton 4/8K stone?

Do you follow the 12K Chinese stone with pasted strops? If so, is the next step a 1 micron to a 0.5 to a 0.25? I'm currently going directly from my Norton to a 1.8 micron paste followed by 0.5 micron Chromium Oxide.

TIA,
Ed

Ed,

I still try to do the pyramid with the 12k. I do follow it with a pasted strop .5 cromium oxide. Then finished leather then my unfinished hanging strop. I am still far from an expert but I can shave with them once I am through.:):D