Question as usual :)

Hi, i have some question ,any advise would be welcome :)
I have received 4oz of Super Cerium Oxide powder but i dont know what im doing and dont want to make a mistake.
First up , i have a modular paddle with spare, rough leather / bridle leather and felt parts..
What would be best for the cerium.. I want to use the rough leather but it has a nap which means both sides of the blade wont get the same treatment.
I have a lovely strop with a cotton strop on the back but i dont wanna mess with it because that strop means the world to me :)
Also if i mixed the powder with oil, would that be cooking oil and does 2 oz sound right mixed into a thick goo?
I have just bought a shapton 30k and wanna give my blades that polish after honing..
Many thanks

Cerium oxide cuts very slowly, so, the felt would not be ideal. You can use the rough leather, and, don't worry about unevenness. After some passes, it will disperse.
As for the oil, vegetable oil wouldn't be my first choice. Maybe neatsfoot oil. For me, I use water as base, on untreated leather. The feeling while stropping remains the same as before.
Don't use too much, and be careful of some bigger particles that may be around.
I have to ask, why Shapton 30k and not Suehiro gokumyo 0.5micron?

Edit; I haven't tried making it a thick goo. I just add a gram or two on a shot glass or something like that, wait a minute for the bigger particles to fall on the bottom, and use a small paintbrush to apply. But, that's just me, and, although I have awesome results, my experience on this is limited.

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Originally Posted by Vasilis

Cerium oxide cuts very slowly, so, the felt would not be ideal. You can use the rough leather, and, don't worry about unevenness. After some passes, it will disperse.
As for the oil, vegetable oil wouldn't be my first choice. Maybe neatsfoot oil. For me, I use water as base, on untreated leather. The feeling while stropping remains the same as before.
Don't use too much, and be careful of some bigger particles that may be around.
I have to ask, why Shapton 30k and not Suehiro gokumyo 0.5micron?

Edit; I haven't tried making it a thick goo. I just add a gram or two on a shot glass or something like that, wait a minute for the bigger particles to fall on the bottom, and use a small paintbrush to apply. But, that's just me, and, although I have awesome results, my experience on this is limited.

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Many thanks, i will apply it as you do..
The reason i purchased the Shapton 30k is because i have the 1/4/8/16K shaptons .So it made sence to keep it in the family.
I was looking into getting a Nakayama , but they are not easly available and im not skilled enough for it really. I've only been honing for about 6 months ish.

you can just use the powder without mixing in with oil or water, it will stick to anything.

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Originally Posted by bombay

you can just use the powder without mixing in with oil or water, it will stick to anything.

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Jobs a gooden..
I applied it on its own to felt but when i did a few laps there was dust coming up , so i just went over it with water from my fingers..I'll let it dry out and see how it is but it looks good to me..
Thanks

oh yer completely forgot to tell you to rub it in with a rag. if the felt is undulating with depressions from the water it can be steam ironed flat again

I wouldn't use it on anything rough - you are using it for its superfine effect after all, so something smoother sounds better to me.

I would never use it with water on felt - I wouldn't even get the felt damp by leaving it in a humid paste, let alone rubbing water into it or anything wet. It is a compressed product and will expand - unevenly, and sometimes imperceptibly when it is wetted. It can be ironed, sure, but why risk not seeing a slight cupping or crowning and messing your edge up?

It goes onto fair-faced or slightly napped (slightly - as in peach fuzz) dry well enough, and can be wetted down to make it stick a little easier then well-rubbed into the leather. Getting the surface of leather slightly damp for a short while will not hurt it.

If you are going to use oil, use something that is compatible with leather like neatsfoot.

Regards,
Neil

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Neil Miller

I wouldn't use it on anything rough - you are using it for its superfine effect after all, so something smoother sounds better to me.

I would never use it with water on felt - I wouldn't even get the felt damp by leaving it in a humid paste, let alone rubbing water into it or anything wet. It is a compressed product and will expand - unevenly, and sometimes imperceptibly when it is wetted. It can be ironed, sure, but why risk not seeing a slight cupping or crowning and messing your edge up?

It goes onto fair-faced or slightly napped (slightly - as in peach fuzz) dry well enough, and can be wetted down to make it stick a little easier then well-rubbed into the leather. Getting the surface of leather slightly damp for a short while will not hurt it.

If you are going to use oil, use something that is compatible with leather like neatsfoot.

Regards,
Neil

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Yep , parts of the felt have kinda raised up :/
I just wanted to have a use for my modular paddle strop because now i have a 30k shappy and cerium , i wont be using my modular for crox or diamond, its redundant.
I have a kinda suede leather attatchment, but it has quite a deep nap to it.
I should order some neatsfoot and dovo do a peachy kinda strop, i know beacause my bro bought me one with my first blade. I managed to slice it to bits though , ha :)

Well I am glad you noticed in time!

I would not think of your paddle as redundant though - far from it. Being modular it is very adaptable. It can take a variety of plain leathers - you always finish on plain leather, and accordig to the make linen too.

You can even fit a peach-fuzz leather if the model allows for this - and then you will be using it for everything. A flat paddle is favourite for abrasive compounds IME in any event.

Regards,
Neil

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Neil Miller

Well I am glad you noticed in time!

I would not think of your paddle as redundant though - far from it. Being modular it is very adaptable. It can take a variety of plain leathers - you always finish on plain leather, and accordig to the make linen too.

You can even fit a peach-fuzz leather if the model allows for this - and then you will be using it for everything. A flat paddle is favourite for abrasive compounds IME in any event.

Regards,
Neil

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I took a cloth and rubbed the Cerium into the felt. Then i got the iron on it.
It looks good to me. Nice n flat with Cerium worked into the felt.
My paddle is ready to rock.
I cant wait to shave,dull my blade and re sharpen it :/