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Hello all,
I'm getting ready to start honing my own straight, and I just need some advice on which stones to buy. I know youre supposed to go from coarse to fine to finer. I bought the good ol' Norton 4k/8k and its on its way. What stone should I buy to go before the 4k? Should I get (or rather, do I NEED) a finisher higher than the 8k? Sorry I'm sure there are a lot of threads on this site about it but I'm just looking for a quick answer. Thanks!
If you are not going to restore, then you don't need a lower grit stone and should look at finishers. A 220/1K Norton combo is pretty nice when you see a razor that just needs a little bit of work.........
+1 to the 220/1k Norton in case you need "just a bit more" than the 4k. As far as finisher, I wouldn't worry too much about one until you can get a consistent comfortable shave off the 8k. After that, maybe a 12k or 16k.
I agree since you've started with the Norton the 220/1k is a good move. The 1K is a bevel setter and the 220 can be used for restoration. You'll need a lapping stone consider the DMT.
I prefer the Naniwa stones an would recommend their 12K great finisher and super easy to use. If you seat picking up Naniwa stones they are easy to use don't need presoaking and the 1k, 5k 8k plus 12k is all you need.
I currently finish on a Norton 8K and a pasted strop before unpasted linen/leather. Although I think about getting a finer finisher, I have gotten good shaves off the 8K for about 3 years.
The 8K is frequently IDed as the base shaveable edge against which the performance of other stones is compared. To get better edges from finer stones, one 1st must obtain a good edge from the 8K stone.
HTH
So would a Norton 1k be fine for setting the bevel?
for purely touch ups & as a finisher I use a Naniwa 12k
for restoration work i go a Naninwa 1K bevel re-setting followed by my Norton 4/8K to the finisher
& for extreme repairs like frown & chip removals I also have an old 10" Norton 220/320 oil stone I have for chisels & lathe tools I personally do not use the 220 grit on any razor for bevel work etc as it chews & chips the blade edge the 320is even pushing it here I think.
absolutelyQuote:
Originally Posted by tdavison
Unless the razor needs a lot of reshaping due to chips or years of bad honing, the 4K or, if necessary, the 1K should be all that one needs before the 8K. The 1K is a normal starting point for resetting edges. The 8K may be used to refresh a shave ready edge. The 4K is slower than a 1k, but can also reset an edge.
My razor isn't in need of restoration for all I know but its unbearably dull. I just got it about 3 months ago. I can't tell if its bowed or not. Would starting with a 4k garauntee flatness like a lower grit would?
Based on the fact that its so new I highly doubt that it needs restoration hahah but I just have a weird feeling about the flatness of the blade!
any 1k should be OK for bevel setting especially followed by the 4/8 Norton which can be used as a bevel setter in it's own right also,Quote:
Originally Posted by tdavison
it just takes a while longer as the 4/8k is all i used for a few months practicing etc
the 1k just makes it quicker & eats a bit more steel if you srew up thats all.
there are plenty of reviews for most 1k's including the Norton, Choosera, Kings, & Naniwa's etc.
The King 1k's are at the cheeper end & also get great reviews & recomendations from some of the honing gods.
I opted for the Nainwa as a personal choice, for the reviews were all great, the price & availabilty fitted with me and there is plenty of info & videos etc using them to make them easy to learn on for me as I have no mentors in my area yet, so makes it a bit easier & think.
but all the same techniques are used on all of them pretty well so really is a mater of price & personal choice I think
The 4K should work for edges in good shape, just more slowly. Sometimes slower is safer because any problems can become apparent before a lot of metal gets removed.
check the flatness against a mirror for if is hollow but your 4/8 can fix this it is all just time & number of passes to fix from there if soQuote:
Originally Posted by tdavison
Heh, there are no guarantees. The hand holding the razor is more important than the hone held in the hand. Also, we can't tell anything from here about the condition of the blade.Quote:
Originally Posted by tdavison
If the razor came professionally honed, ie- truly shave ready, you will probably be able to revive it starting from the 4K. If it came with a factory edge.. well, factory edges can be all over the place. Some few of them are actually shave ready while most are not even close.
I'd suggest that you send it out to be honed by a pro this time. Then use that 4K/8K Norton (the 8K side) to refresh the edge from time to time while you learn about the honing process. You may not actually need the 4K side unless you pick up other razors in need of help.
rs,
Tack
If your razor was shave ready to begin with and is dull now something like a 4/8 pyramid should bring it back and from there you should be able to maintain it with just the 8k. Just make sure to properly lap the hone. Good luck
I wouldn't buy the 220/1000 Norton for just razors. The 220 might be good for knives and chisels that are out of whack, but it's too coarse for me on razor steel. I use DMT fine/coarse if in need that much metal removed quickly.
I have one because i use Japanese cutlery and started with a combo kit.
No matter where or what hone you ever buy, you'll want a diamond lapping plate. So these days I'd gear up: DMT (coarse (325) or combo, continuous not holey), 1k, 4/8k, nice strop.
Work you way backwards if you are refreshing a shaving edge. Once a nice bevel is created, WE have the technology and know-how amongst us to keep it going indefinitely.
IOW, if you learn right (and the resources are here) there should not ever be a need to go back below 4k for any edge.
I would get Max to hone them one time then get a 12k Naniwa to keep the edge refreshed and it's an easy day