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My first couple barber hones came in.
I've read that after lapping a barber hone(which I understand didn't need to be done...they were in perfect condition.doh) then I'll need to apply some sort of viscous petroleum jelly/lube to the surface and let it sit in a warm area(not the sun) for up to 48rhs. Re-apply if necessary.
Can any of you tell me what you've been using, if it is necessary and why people do it?
Thanks in advance...
Simon
After lapping my Champion barber hone, I give it a very, very light coat of mineral oil (baby oil). I'm sure petroleum jelly would work but for me, it's a little too thick. As to why I do it? It was offered to me as advice by another very experienced hone-Meister that I know.
Frank
Quote:
Originally Posted by Siguy
It re-seals the hone matrix, apparently without it will break down. I used silicone based grease on the one I did.
http://www.razorandstone.com/showthr...-a-Barber-hone
I too am a lemming on this one.
I did it because someone else said to. The good news is my hones are all fine. Other than that I have no words of wisdom.
I use Paraliq Gte 703 a silicon oil based grease with PTFE which was invented for food industry...quite expensive but works good...
As i understand Vaseline can also used...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UJ7TCxla59I
So... she gets the vasoline.
That wasn't creepy.
Glad you appreciated it, Shaun. :rofl2: :rofl2: :rofl2:
Thank me!
If you can find the reference on this method, let me know. I would like to read about it. I have several barber hones, some got lapped due to the poor surface condition from substances being spilled on them or have rested in garbage for years. None on them needed a treatment to revive them after lapping, they work just fine.Quote:
Originally Posted by Siguy
I use only water or lather to hone on them, which is seldom for razors. I have a beat up Swaty that was lapped & has been used close to 80 times to finish my knives & a couple of hatchets. It only sees water & the surface is fine.
This is all I have to go on. Post #3, Mike goes makes a few comments:
How to lap a Barber hone.
Modine spends a lot of time working with barber hones & knows them as well as anybody. If he recommends this method & you follow his exact directions, then this should work out well.
I have lapped to this extent, but did not recondition as he did. I did not feel it was necessary, but I don't have the experience that he does. I will break out my barber hones this weekend & take the 6 or 8 that have been lapped & apply this method.
I'll give you my results next week.
Well, that's what I was going for. I picked the hone based on his reviews and lapped more or less according to his instructions. Grid lapped on each grit twice 180, 220, 400, 600, 1000, 2000, 2500. Now, she's soakin up the vasoline.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hirlau
Learn something every day.
Seems to have worked out pretty nicely on the Apart(very fine and silky feeling when used with the lather).
I had to wipe some excess vasoline of the 2 line Swaty. Used that as well and it is *not* fine. I would guess it might be a 5K or 6K lever(definitely between Nani 3K/8K as I testing between these two stones). However, I have not lapped and polished the Swaty.
Thre are quite a view differences on the Swatys....have two of them one seems to be very good for touch ups > 10k the other one as you mentioned around 6k...
Siguy,,,I finished "6" barber hones with Modine's method last night. They are sitting in my old car , it gets pretty hot in it during the day. I'll take a look at them in a few days.
This just seems wrong. The metal particles mixed with the oil/grease would clog the stone.
Sounds like a water stone being converted to an oil stone.
The water or oil is used to flush the particles out of the stone to keep the grit sharp.
I may be wrong, but the grease thing seems counter productive.
Where do you get the 'metal particles" from?
Are you referring to swarf?
Here is an auction pic of the 3-line Swaty hone I have. It says it can be used dry, with water, lather or oil. Nothing about lapping it, and having used it the surface is fine and put a nice edge on my blade. It say's to wash it with soap if it gets dirty, and if it get's really dirty, use some light emery sanding paper to clean the surface. Hope this helps.
Attachment 164144
Huh, you got old cars just sitting around that you store stuff in. Do you live next door to me?Quote:
Originally Posted by Hirlau
Most all of my barber hones don't need lapping, but some do. Some have been treated like he$$ over the years by prior owners & had staines & substances on the surface that were God knows what. :shrug:
Some had chips on the edges that had to be smoothed out.
I would not lap a barber hone that was in good condition already.
,,,:rofl2:,,,,, no, just my back up car that I have should my 4Runner break down. If I sold the old thing, I would not get much for it. So I keep it, drive it down the street once a month to keep the oil circulating.Quote:
Originally Posted by RezDog
Yes, that's the word I was fumbling for.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hirlau
Now that I know you mean swarf, here's my thoughts, some of this I'm sure you already know;Quote:
Originally Posted by Neckbone
The OP & the link that is refered to is not about "honing" with petroleum jelly, it's about refurbishing a barber hone, either after lapping one for flatness or repairing a damaged one.
Once the procedure is finished, water or lather is usually used as a method to hone with. A dry barber hone is often used too.
Water & oil is not used to flush the swarf out during honing; water, oils, WD-40, lather & many other substances are applied to the hone to decrease the friction between the steel & the stone, a "buffer/cushion" so to speak. Different substances can provide different results on the same stone. Some substances will "float' swarf better than others, but the act of stroking a blade on the stone, will still push some metal into the grit/stone.
Yes, some of the above substances can be used to clean a stone after use & remove the metal transfer/particles. I use WD-40 on oil stones to clean them, also Simple Green works great on oil stones ,To remove embeded swarf; dish soap & a toothbrush on waterhones. Sometimes the transfer is deep enough that it requires a couple of strokes with the appropriate level DMT to clean the face of the stone again.
I'm not going to defend Modine's method, as he's a member here & can speak to the topic himself. I do trust his information & acknowledge his dedication to the subject of barber hones. I have 6 hones under this method now. I'll have further comments on it, in about a week.
I used the method described in the link of post # 10.
I used 6 barber hones to test this method. They stayed in a hot van for about 7 days, taken out,,,wiped off,,,& then washed lightly with a dish soap. Five of the hones looked to improve cosmetically & the surface felt consistent to others of the same brand that were NOS & not treated. I have included photos of two, the other photos did not take well. I will treat a couple more hones soon & show the results later.
Before:
Attachment 167912
After:
Attachment 167913
Before:
Attachment 167914
After:
Attachment 167915
Seem to improve the surface of my hones(at least in my mind). The BHs seem to suck the blade to the surface (draw?) pretty effectively.
What's your experience honing with the treated hone?
Thanks for the pic.
ps-How does one know something is truly flat with any degree of certainty unless one laps it? I've always wondered. And, since I know of a way of making certain, why wouldn't I employ the knowledge. I'm pretty new to it, so I just try to stick to the basics. And, following a progression of grid lapping, I do notice the surface becoming smoother(more polished).
I have not honed with these treated barber hones. I rarely use my barber hones, I just collect them. I use an old Swaty for my knives & other edges regularly,,,,a NeverDull barber hone to maintain a couple of edges on my travel straights & now I carry a Pike strop/hone to maintain them.
To be certain,,, I guess you have to lap,,but,,,since the barber hones are just stroked 5 or 8 times to refresh,,,I don't feel the need to lap them,,,,unless the surface has problems.
All the stones in this test I did , according to the link, had surface problems,,90% of my barber hones have no issues,, so I don't feel a need to lap them.
My concern with the lapping of barber hones; is the little knowledge this is out here on the make-up, manufacturing specifics on barber hones. Yes, there are a lot out here & many use them. We can say which hones perform better than others & we set the price on certain hones, but we cannot tell you much about how they are made; getting manufacturing documents is difficult, it seems.
So,,,the question is , 'do we really want to lap every barber hone that comes into our hands, I say , "No" based on what I have seen in some hones. What I have seen in barber hones of dual grit/ dual texture is that this difference is sometimes only skin deep , a coating of fine grit/abrasive applied to the hone on one side; lapping in this case removes this coating. Not a good thing I believe.
If members have manufacturing specs on barber hones,,,I hope they share it.
I also say no, there's no reason to lap them. If I had one that was coming apart, I'd brush it with shellac before putting any jelly on it. I'm late to the party here, but that's my story and I'm sticking to it.
(in reality, I'd just discard it because I've already got good barber hones that didn't require lapping or that were hard and 100% dense all the way through).
The exception is that I'll freely lap a frictionite #00, #821 or #825 or any of the other similar hones (super punjab) because I know they use those as bench stones at colonial williamsburg, at least they did until they ran out of them in the supply shop.
