Hi, I'd like to ask what grit number of sandpaper
to use to flatten a Belgian yellow coticule and a Naniwa 12000.
Thanks a lot.
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Hi, I'd like to ask what grit number of sandpaper
to use to flatten a Belgian yellow coticule and a Naniwa 12000.
Thanks a lot.
I've used a progression of 180-320-600 and finished with 1200. That worked fine!
If you are only getting one grit, I'd say go with 320 or 600
I'm not in love with using sandpaper on resin stones, but the SS series might be soft enough for it not to matter. less than wonderful things happen on the harder stones, like sigma power and shapton.
I'd spend the money a progression like birnardo suggests.
I've not seen an issue with either of those lines when using wet/dry sandpaper and running water. Did you have trouble with grit transfer?
I use the DMT 325 on all my Naniwa SS now. I started with the large Norton Lapping stone but after looking at the recommendations on here bought the 325 and have found it works much better, faster and smoother.
ssg1,
+1 on Birnando's post.
You can save a lot of fuss and mess by getting a DMT 325 (the 8C)
I used to use carbide paper : it was a revelation when I finally got the DMT. So much easier :)
The DMT 325 is also a very useful beast to have about the house - I use it a lot for bevel resets on knives.
When broken in, the DMT 325 leaves a very smooth surface on the stones - for me, it looks better than the finish left by 600 'grit' silicon carbide paper.
Have fun !
Best regards
Russ
It wasn't a grit transfer issue, it was that some resin from the sandpaper or something ended up in the surface of the stone and then I had areas of stiction or accumulation of swarf. Not large areas, like pinpoints with a tail, and when woodworking, it caused trouble.Quote:
Originally Posted by Utopian
That was from using 220 grit gator grit wet and dry, not sure if the types of paper would make much difference. The fact that I was sharpening tools instead of razors also exacerbates it, because there's a lot more swarf involved.
I did have grit transfer issues when trying some inexpensive chinese made diamond cards that are about $10 shipped online. No issues with DMT, and no issues with the more expensive milled steel plate chinese diamond hones, nor the atomas. The issue with the chinese milled plate diamond hones is that they are already half the cost or more of an atoma, and they're often not flat.
I never did a superstone with sandpaper. All of my experimenting came out of a discussion with stu tierney where he said the makers of the resin based stones advised against using sandpaper, and I didn't believe him. I could still sharpen my tools, I just didn't like the pinpoints of aggregating swarf, they were almost a bit of a sticky feel on the surface of the stone.
I recently flatted an old coticule and I noticed as for the speed of it 100 -200 grit wet and dry sand paper isn't nessesarely quicker in removing material the a high grit paper say 1000 - 2000 grit, the high grit paper does take damage easier though, so if you have a lot to remove strat low but otherwise you can simply start high up.Quote:
Originally Posted by ssg1
I have no experience with the Naniwa stones so I can't help you there :shrug:
When lapping a coticule I have always used a DMT 325 followed by the slurry stone. Seemed to work nice enough.