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I just use 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper on a flat surface, and it works fine. Some caution that sand particles can get imbedded in the hones, but I've been careful about this and have never seen it happen. That's about as cheap as you can go. I have all the available lapping plates, and I just find this way easier, quicker and still effective.
Find a place that does custom counter installs, they usually will have a big scrap pile of granite that you should be able to find a nice sized flat piece to use. The one local to me will actually cut it and finish it for me for a small fee. Then just follow ace's suggestion and use running water that usually helps keep sand out.
Thanks for the link! I did a few searches and was seeing prices upwards of $170 for lapping plates. $50 is cheap.
My two cents is I flatten my water stones with a rock that I found and was been flattened by trying to flatten a rock.
Use the sun and you eyes rub off the high spots. Then check with a light and if light passes under the stone and something flat.
If you have nothing else, you can rub the stones against each other in a sort of progression. It does work. Doing this under running water is usually best.
If you have a lot of material to remove then you need something quicker probably - a plate or wet and dry sandpaper on a bit of stout float glass or trued marble/granite is good, as is lapidary grit on glass for very course to very fine removal.
Regards,
Neil
I'm thinking that DMT 325 is looking pretty good. Just watched a video by Lynn and looks pretty straight forward.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=
The DMT 325 is my preferred method for softer stones.
Do you have a stone in the 1K region ?
Wid - no, and I was wondering about that. I noticed in Lynn's videos he starts with a 1000k.
Yeah, you will be needing a stone in the 1K region. Setting a bevel with a 5k stone would be a job.
Wid - do you think that Naniwa set would be ok for touch ups? Something a little more aggressive than CrOX?
Oh yeah. I used the 12K for a while and it did a great job.
That's what I'm thinking - an initial investment on a 12k plus the lapping stone for minor touch ups. Would let me slowly wade in vs jumping head first.
Knowing what I know now I would probably begin with a Norton 4/8 combo and the DMT D8C. You'll only really need the 1k if you are going to be messing with vintage razors that need the bevel set. If you're maintaining razors that you bought shave ready a 4/8 or a 12k superstone are fine for touch ups. While the 4/8 isn't giving you as fine an edge as the 12k it is more versatile in that you have the sharpening of the 4k, if you need it, along with the finishing of the 8k.
The 4k can also be used for bevel setting, though it takes longer. The way I was taught recommended getting a comfortable shave at the 8k level before moving up in grit to a 12k, 16k or whatever. I found that I can get very nice shaves @ 8k, and doing so confirmed my skills in honing. The higher grits did add to the smoothness/comfort but the 8k was plenty good by itself. The advantage in that approach is saving $ and versatility. If you have the $ and don't mind spending them the Naniwa set you mentioned before is good too.
I would take a pasted strop over the ebay stone.