Went to the library and searched the threads.
Anyone have a good source of how to apply and set a balsa chrome ox hone?
Thank You
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Went to the library and searched the threads.
Anyone have a good source of how to apply and set a balsa chrome ox hone?
Thank You
Olive oil in a bowl add the chromox with a toothpick and mix very well.apply with either a finger tip or a qtip.:)
ThanksQuote:
Originally Posted by Blistersteel
Then what?
Just start honing
Or
Smear it all over the balsa wood and hone away?
Or
Smear all over the balsa and let dry THEN hone?
I draw x's on the surface with the chromox mixture.I let it dry/soak in for a day and then use it as a refresher or finisher.
Thanks.Quote:
Originally Posted by Blistersteel
Never understood what to do after drawing the x's.
See post 81 of this thread
http://straightrazorpalace.com/down-...y-october.html
foamboard makes a really good substrate for pastes, and with a balsa handle they are solid but light, each pad has a small cardboard envelope, and all 4 pads fit in a cardboard box I made.
dead light for travel too.
I used a bit of powder and added a drop of singer sewing machine oil until the paste is like paint then painted in onto my Balsa strop with my finger (in a disposable glove) for a solid cover, let it dry for a few days then rub off any excess, gives a solid coat
I used this for Chrox & Ferrox for my post honing finishers before stropping
Remember you only need a dozen strokes on the pastes
I did read a post where someone was doing 100 laps to polish it, but most recommend only about 10 laps then shave test
Thanks to all!
light mineral oil, something food grade or vet grade.
Cover your strops once you put oil and chrome ox on them, every bit of dust will stick to the strop and a layer of dust will add a variable you don't want.
Yes, paint 3in X’s on the paddle with your finger let dry about 15-20 min and give another coat and let dry, do not smear the X's. Any excess will sluff off when stropping.
Balsa can be aggressive, cheap foam core works better. The cheap foam core from the dollar store is a bit rough, made from construction weight paper that hold the paste and also polished very well.
The trick to using Chrome Oxide is to use lite pressure and as pure as possible Chrome Oxide. I recommend Kremer Pigments, Hand America or the SRD stick.
Either purchase is a life time supply. One application will last years.
I mix chrome ox with dish detergent in a bowl before application . It makes it much easier to remove any remnants of chrome ox from the blade, fingers, clothes etc. The opposite side of the home made hanging strop has .25 mic diamond spray applied. These were made for my non-honing son.
Attachment 190292
Depends on if it's pigment powder or what. I use water or oil depending.
I stopped using pastes though as it prevents using a finishing hone for touch ups. You can make a razor last longer before honing, but then when you do go to stones you have to do a full bevel set, whereas I can keep a razor going indefinitely by touching up on a finisher when it starts to tug instead of pastes.
Of course you need a good finisher to be able to do that, which for cost reasons makes paste totally acceptable for short term solutions.
No way Jose.
Why would you think that you could not touch up a pasted razor?
The bevels are still flat, just do a few laps and your good to go.
I often strop between stones with a Canvas Chrome Ox strop, 5-6 laps to make the edge straighter, then hone the next stone in progression between the 4 & 8 and 8 & 12K.
Works just fine and a Chrome Ox strop, linen and leather can keep a razor shaving very well for a very long, long time.
Water or oil depending on what?Quote:
Originally Posted by DireStraights
I would personally not agree with this. I routinely go to a 12K stone when pastes or sprays quit working without have to reset a bevel unless the razor has been damaged in some way. YMMV
Have fun.
Quote:
Originally Posted by DireStraights
+1 to what Lynn and Marty have said...Although I usually use a 'PbO' pasted strop instead of CrOx (it has the same micron rating as CrOx). When that stops working a quick couple of laps on a quality BH or a 12K followed up with a good stropping will always do the trick. No need to reset a bevel that is already set?
I don't like the idea of rubbing chromium into my skin and definitely feel the same about lead.Quote:
Originally Posted by Wolfpack34
I would avoid Lead also, but Chromium is included in several steel alloys.Quote:
Originally Posted by Utopian
Not all Chromium is evil. It is in many foods, waters. Also, please correct me if I am wrong, isn't CrOx made from Chromium(III) which is the same as in Chromium(III) Picolinate. A dietary suppliment.
Just looking for clarification before it's too late.
Chromium is Chromium, Lead is Lead, and Chromium Oxide or Lead Oxide is different from the metal.Quote:
Originally Posted by KindestCutOfAll
Whether something is good or bad depends on biochemistry, i.e. how does the specific chemical compound react with your body.
For example ethanol contains an extra carbon and two extra hydrogen atoms compared to methanol, and it's fairly safe to consume in moderate quantity while methanol is not.
It would be interesting to know how much chromium oxide or lead oxide remains on the edge after it's stropped and ready to shave.
I was being lazy in not including the full name, but the pigment lead oxide is toxic and it is not something I want on my skin, on my strops, aerosolized into my lungs, or basically anywhere in my house.
Then again, I have not yet completed that Farraday cage for my bed yet either!
You can do a search for "Chromium Oxide SDS" and get the toxicology info on it. SDS is the new MSDS's. Cr2O3 is the formula if that helps.
but here is a link to a MSDS
http://www.sciencelab.com/msds.php?msdsId=9923471
There relatively simple actually. Here's how to build your own Faraday Cage. :wQuote:
Originally Posted by Utopian
Just an FYI (in regards to using 'Lead' to rub on a strop) for those that are interested, here is a thread I started some time ago. It has a ton of good info in it...especially some great historical information. I have been using this (lead) to rub on a linen strop as a 'paste if you will' ( but it's not really a paste) for over a year and the smoothness of the my shaves has convinced me to continue to do so.
Here is the thread: http://straightrazorpalace.com/strop...-pictures.html
YMMV and IMOO!
Attachment 190396
Attachment 190397
Attachment 190398
Yeah, PbO is poisonous, but not quickly. I think they used it in 18th century for makeup when it was rather fashionable to be white/pale because it indicated you're really an aristocrat who doesn't have to work for his food and instead has (owns?) dark skinned people who provide for him.
Then again if you don't live in a faraday cage those EM waves may kill you way before the leftover PbO on your razor, so we really need to start measuring...
As an undergrad I was warned about handling acrylamide. First I was warned that it was carcinogenic but not to worry about that because as a nerve toxin it would kill me long before I got cancer!
Note to self use rubber gloves while using Chrome Ox!
So, now I have chromox on my balsa hone.
Do I wipe the excess off before I use it?
Or, does it come off on the blade and you have to clean it off?
Both. Wipe as much as possible off with clean dry paper towels till there is no residue coming off anymore.
Then after that after stropping ur razor just carefully wipe off the blade with a damp cloth or paper towel just in case there is any residue on the blade.
Quote:
Originally Posted by rlmnshvstr8
Thanks a bunch
