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Did someone try this stonee wett ,is it rebranded is it soft , fast , feedbback ect.?
Deespertly need synthetic 3-4 K level and one 5-6 after.Thinking to buy 1 .Any opinions about it.Canot find review -where is made , how behaives.
http://www.amazon.com/Toishi-Sharpen.../dp/B000RVFAO8
Kai does not make stones so it is a rebranded one. Who makes them I do not know.
Check out Ebay for shapton pro 2k (if you have more funds 3k Super stone) and 5k Shapton Pro, you can get them at very good prices straight from Japan. I personally like the 3k SS over the 2k Spaton Pro, the finish is more even to my eye.
It will be a lot less hassle than getting stones from US, the shipping will be too expensive.
They sell them in Bulgaria , here i can gett them easily for 30 Euro .I canot order from Japan ,dont know how.
They look like the white corundum or white alumina, whatever it is, that is being sold as chinese stones uusharp. It could just be a coincidence, but I am a woodworker so I have bought a lot of stones in the 400-5000 range just on experiment, probably 50.
Two of them were stones from china that looked like that, looked decent, and were junk in use. They self slurried awful, and just made a mess everywhere.
For razors in a synthetic, you want something with some kind of alumina (not silicon carbide, unless you're going to be sharpening razors made out of powder stainless or something), and it doesn't have to be special. The range you're shopping in (mid level stones) always has a void of things people are satisfied with because people are wowed only by fast or fine, but a stone in the middle of that is seen as mediocre, despite its usefulness in a progression (see reviews on chosera 5k and shapton 5k, both leave people saying "not as good as their other stones").
At any rate, I think you should visit toolsfromjapan.com and sift through the stones and then come back and ask about specific stones. If you get one of the chinese origin alumina or silicon carbide stones,....well, they just don't have the process down yet and the binder is no good.
A 4/8 norton may also be what you need. Generally, you'll not need what's marketed as a 3 or 4 k stone and then another stone before a finisher simply because those stones don't have linear particle sizes. For instance, Shapton's 5k has a 3 micron particle. The 8k has 2, and the 12k has just over 1. The 1k has something on the order of 14 and the 2k 7. Chosera's range is even narrower, where the 3k is a 4 micron stone, and the 5k is 3 micron. They are too close together and you can go from a 3 or 4 micron stone to finisher no problem.
I hate to say it (because of price), but I've liked the chosera 3k better than any mid grit stone I've tried, but you can get by with any of them in a progression of three stones (bevel setter, mid stone, finish stone) if you're sharpening razors. The virtues of the cho 3k applies mostly to tools.
Usualy i hone in bevel setter from 400 - 600 ,have a 600 Diamont plate ,my favourite 800 then 1200 Makitta stone - pretty amazing ,fast stone. After i have 2 synthetic stones hard as hell and slow. In the 2 -3 k level i haxe thoose 2 and i quick sllaatte that ii collect - verry fast on slurry .
We are in 55-6 k range , the razor sshaves hair efortless and bite the skin furiously .You can shave your worst enemy like this .
I began refining with a BBW and coty ,have a cretan thatt can play both pre and finisher ,dragonn tongue and bunch more natturals.
The problem my Sir is that reseenntly flood a lot razors and those made from 62 + make me look like a fool -rusians and some Solingens. Ii hone for hours to make the Edge.
i enjoy honning them butt didnt have so much time so ineed agressivee ,fast stoner in the 2 middle points also .
i recently order Taidea 8k and 1 month still waiting for delivery .Soft or not ,but what we do on the coti ,so i think that will do the job done.
I love honing hours but i dont have the time so i need the stones .Even as we speek some of them are waiting .
That strikes me as strange (the time) because it generally takes me about 15-20 minutes to set up a razor (including bevel set) on three oilstones. (or three synthetics, or three pretty much anything).
I'm not sure what you'll gain by going through twice as many stones.
Im not using them at time . There are razors and razors ,some are very hard to hone . When you grind down heavily chiped edge 3mm from the width and it is dull as spoon let see how you hone it for 20 min. 20 min is only thuringian finishing time ,dilutting the slurry . Oilstones are mind to be ussed with big presure - i dont do it with my razors.
Some youtube clips for bevell setting or bevell resetting , straightening geometry on hi tech hones -Chosera ect. are 12 to 18 min withowt stone soaking and other things.
Tell me aggain for the 15 min, it is not posible if you ask me and it is not a race ,i permanently check the razors state.It is important nott only sarpening the edge also refining to miror shiny for a comfort shave and durable edge.
I ask did someone use this stone houping to understand something about it ,how performs, im not intresting in razor honing races :chapeau
Well, I think you're solving problems you don't have. If you have dull razors because you honed the entire bevel off, you need a better coarse stone.
You don't have to use oilstones with a great amount of pressure, you need to slurry them if you want them to cut quickly. I stand by my comment, I'd have a finished razor in 20 minutes with no bevel at all, and without it being misshapen due to pressure. I may add an india stone to start if that were the case.
A razor that I spend 20 minutes on from a bevel reset is ready for several hundred shaves. I'm not trying to do anything other than question why any of this has anything to do with using two intermediate stones instead of one, and suggest that two intermediate stones offer no benefit over one.
As for the rest of the stuff, I can't vouch for honing videos that show someone working 15 minutes on one stone on a razor other than to suggest that it will do nothing to add sharpness over a third of that amount. Some people wear belt and suspenders at the same time, I guess, but I would bet that a practicing barber in 1900 would never spend 20 minutes on a single finishing hone (and that's who would've honed a razor for someone in need of assistance).
I think at this point, unless you have no stones in the 2-5k range, that you are not going to get further along by buying more stones. Just my opinion, nobody has to agree.
Ok Dave ,my frend i can only respect you if you can hone for a20 min. Unfortunately i am only beginer and i have hone just 50 maybe 55 blades and im not such experienced and skilled honer as some of you are . It is easy on thelower gritt stones but iin 5k up range we have tto be carefull-1 mistake degrade the edge and bring us to 1500 gritt again.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yR4DctzQ2kY
Here is one of the best ,using maybe the fastest stone .14 min per a stone , 4 stones and strop -1 hour 10 min rought for expert levell prohoner and super hones .So the simple math is 4x14 and 10 more 1hour 10 min without prep and tests .
The trread is because my naturals and synth are slow and i am watching to buy a dascent ,fast 2 stones in the midle 3-4k and 5-6k at a good prise ,here in Bulgaria Eastern Europe.
Honing is dzen ,it is like the sex-somethimes ,if you do it fast you can miss the deep pleasure from it
Honing and sex are not remotely similar.
It would probably be helpful for lynn to put up a string of doing five razors in a row that need a bevel set, and without talking. I'll bet the action in those videos would take about 15 minutes. Most of the video you linked is talking.
Any mistakes that you make that damage an edge on anything other than a very coarse stone will disappear soon. Some things (like microchipping) may happen by chance if you have a razor and stone that don't like each other, but errant strokes from you will disappear.
They disappear long ago along with strop nicks and pasted strops hhaha ha.. But thhe rush and speed iminently lead to mistakes. So i keep a rithm ,just looking for better cuters- i think its HAD. Before i hone 1 blade in a week or 2 , now 4 5 every week and i whant to do it for the same time.
Now again KAI stone 3k any sugestions?
Stick to known stones. That one is not known, and it looks like the stones sold as uusharp. Specifically, I had a green one that was marked "#3000" or 3000 grit one way or another, and branded uusharp.
I threw it in the trash when I was done.
The picture of that stone is white, but it says that it's green corundum, and without specifying where it came from, I would assume it's coming from china. It's not worth the risk.
Go to a supplier who ships everywhere - but ships japanese origin stone, like toolsfromjapan, and find an interim stone from them.
(HAD is a perfectly acceptable reason to buy stones, by the way!!)
Looks different than the uusharp stone, but who knows. The group that distributes them is from singapore, and I'm not aware of too many good stones from singapore. they could be decent, but they'd have to be almost free for me to risk it.
Plus, silicon carbide isn't a great abrasive for razors. It's sort of brash and leaves an edge that's a bit abused (like microchipped).
Bevel set time depends on the razor. Some are so messed up it can take several hours to set the bevel.Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveW
Can you post an example?
I've had razors that had cracks in them that I had to remove that took about an extra ten minutes because I had to grind them perpendicular on a medium carborundum stone.
If I had hours, I could literally hone away the blade of any razor - perhaps in 20 minutes.
One of the reasons I like to use a slurried oilstone to set the bevel is because it is not sensitive to direction, it doesn't require that firm of pressure, and the particles are large but without being damaging to an edge.
Hypothetically, the worst case scenario I could make up would have me honing 3 millimeters off of a razor and then setting the bevel on a soft arkansas (which is more coarse than the stone I showed in another thread here about oilstones or jaspers or something).
Sheffield wedges are notorious for taking long time to set bevels, that is because one also has to fix the issues they come with before the bevel an actually be set. If all was perfect bevels will set pretty quick as you say.Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveW
Somethime the one side stays narower ,and nott because off th grind.Need to makee extra strokes only this side and after in finer grits runs away little bit again.Quote:
Bevel set time depends on the razor. Some are so messed up it can take several hours to set the bevel.
Smileys aways need extra work on both ends .
Somehow soome small area refuse to get an edge just and only there .Whiitthhowwt obvious reeason in geometry.
30 % need special atention and tests .Somehow some steells didnt like some naturaal stones and surpriiingly you loose the edge that you honeand need rehoniing on the previous stone.
In the beggining ii think it is a piece of cake , now im not so sure.
I think we're probably not equipped to deal with sheffield wedges correctly. They need to be done by a cutler with a grinder.Quote:
Originally Posted by mainaman
Quote:
Originally Posted by RusenBG
It depends, if you get 5 warped razors in a row, it tends to make you think a little less of the world. Like you say, it's difficult to get them to have an even bevel (as well as many others). I set the bevels on razors like that with two hands, and then pretty much hone that way. I think a lot of people see videos of folks making even strokes, and they stroke a razor until the bevel is way out of whack instead of stopping and doing it sectionally first to get things geometrically even and then going from there.
This is the one place that I think learning to sharpen knives and tools first is helpful for, to set up the initial geometry and not be too timid around it as long as one doesn't use pressure enough to flex a razor.
The rest of honing, tool and knife sharpening isn't particularly helpful.
Strangely enough, the only razor I can recall recently leaving an uneven bevel on was one where I set up a brand new razor in about 3 or four minutes, figuring that I would come back and fix it. I sold it on the classifieds, it shaved so well that I didn't have the heart to reset the bevel to something cosmetically more pleasing. And like you say, I rushed to get it shaving, but I wasn't very proud of what it looked like, and I felt a bit guilty for the buyer despite it taking one of the better edges off of natural stones that I've had.
The problem with issue razors that it just takes time to fix the issues. On big wedges it just takes forevr to even things out, too much steel needs to be removed and a lot of times the steel is tempered too hard.Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveW
Last week I had to hone a W&B 7/8 hollow. The thing had uneven stabilizers so on one side the heel would set fine and easy, on the other I hit the stabilizer. I had to reshape the heel as much as I can without compromising the overall shape, which left a bit of the stabilizer, and then grind through it. Took ~2 hrs of honing to set the bevel. Add to that it was a smiling blade, and one can see how much "fun" it was.
No wonder some"honemaisters" on ebay and sites do not take "problem" blades or wedges to hone, not so simple and takes a lot of time.
Ii only fiix dificult andd russsians last times.Russians some are1/4 or1/2 grind -Stiz Osobaia 71 year and Stolychnaya 65 . They came new chipped heavy and ffrom 6/8 became5/8 ,but the bevell widht is 2 3 mm wheen sett.
2mm of the hardestt edge honed down /i love my new 600 Diamond plate and 600 and 800 corund stones/ . Then honing from ground 0 ,guess how time consuming is that.
Sounds like you guys need belt sanders and grinding wheels!!
Well i buy an almost brand new УС 1 М universal lathe / methal lathe / and i am now seriousely cosider to buy or make myself grinder . I despertly whant kamisori style razor and they arent any of them alround so i will have to make my self .
Kai Whetstone Sharpening Stone #3000 w/stand AP0304 - JPSelection
Doesnt look like a cheap chinese stone . I think it is rebranded Suehiro , naniwa or King stone , the prise is affordable 30 Euro plus deliverry . I will risk , just ordered him . will keep you in touch about the quality , when it comes .
The stone arive this morning q very good hone on my opinion .It cames in utility base with water reservoir . 18 x 6 x1=5 sm . size . It is not a a cheap chinese hone , there are japanese scription all over the box. Very flat stone with lapper corners beautifull stoene .
It is not soft stone like King deluxe q harder stone , but not too hard to clugs , the steel fels out like a black mud of it . Very consistent scratch marks , smaler than King deluxe 1200 , but close to it . It leaves definitive scratch patern not a fussy finish , very agresive cuter as most white alumina stones .
Thursty stone , the king is thurstier . Very fast and it is a quality , rebranded stone , maybe . Pretty hapy with it not the best offer for 30 euro chiped , but an convinient choise to all Europe users .
It could play a bevell seter and a refinement hone as well , before coticule or BBW . Fast cuter , medium hardnes stone .
Houp this helps for now .
I hone a rusian Osobaia today with the KAI 3000 - fast and quality stone indeed .
I buy a 6/8 rusian razor , brand new for a 10 bucs , but when i look it , closely , the spine was not right . The grind was absolutely pefect but the spine was not right i guess this hapent during the heat treatment of the razor . It was brand new q no bevell at all.
So i hone the spine flat , both sides to get full contact with the hone . The operation was sucsessfull and the razor is all right .
I straighten it on a 400 grit wite alumina stone and i sett the bevel on it . After that i go on the Kai 3000 stone .
I didnt expect to be a quality stone , but it is , im very happy with it . I am falling in love with theese wite alumina stones . They are awsome ha ha ha .