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Hi all i have a couple of questions on what I should do regards to my razor which has some jagged edges towards the tip seen using a loupe. I bought the razor from SRD and the bevel is definitely set also I have a set of nannies 1k,3k,8k,12k and wanted to know what I can do to get these burrs out as i have tried stropping and with no resolve. Should I go all the way to the 1k or use a 3k then progress from here.
Can you give us some details please:
How long have you been shaving with a Straight?
First razor or first new razor and what is it/how long have you had it?
Have you had a chance to search for a mentor in the area?
And do you have something to lap the stones?
My suggestion if you can't find a mentor is use your free honing from Lynn first.
Normally you can maintain a pro-honed razor for a very long time (like outlast you) with the 12k, dropping down only if you let it go all the way to dull or it is damaged - and lifting the spine while Stropping will damage the edge...
Taking out chips is "restoring" and takes some time to master. Bringing an edge back to form is "touching up" aka honing. It takes practice and patience but with a mentor or some time watching the reference material you can master it.
And we have all been in the spot you are in now...hang in there.
Smooth shaving
If your experience is equal to your join date, I think your best bet at this time is to send it out. You could use your free honing certificate.
Hi I have been straight razor shaving for over 3 months and have 3 razors. This is a Dovo Bismark and I find it not as smooth as the Ralf Aust I have and even that of my vintage Heckles that I actually honed myself and after using the loupe I seen a much better bevel on both of these razors (finer scratch pattern ). I was wondering if I could use the 3k and do circles followed by the x strokes then progress to the 8k then 12 k? I use a DMT 325 for lapping.
Jim
You could try a touch up on the Dovo with the 12k, 10-30 laps and test shave. Might be all it needs.
It is a tough one to do sight unseen. It depends on hoe small these little serrations are. Are we talking the full depth of the bevel just a little fuzz on the very edge. If you are really wanting to do this and the is no holding back. The first go should be with 3K presuming it is very tiny on the edge. I would try ten x strokes and then check it. Pressure is your enemy at this point in the game. A reasonable indicator is watching your water and how it clears the hone. Try a couple of stroke light enough that you are moving the water with the edge, but not all of it, sort of splitting it in half, then add a little more pressure until you are barely able to clear the water. That is the amount of pressure needed. It is very light handed. One of the risks is that you will do too much work on your edge and it will start to fall apart. Tread lightly and go slow.
Fuzz at very edge.
The pretense of my previous post is that I am under the assumption that you have damaged your edge while stropping. Seeing as how we are talking about the very edge you are likely better off starting with Grazors advice. Starting high will preserve more metal. If you do two sets of ten laps and you cannot see the fuzz disappearing then drop to the next highest grit hone and then once they are gone start back up.
Got it Rezdog :-). I am happy with results too!!!! I used a 3k Naniwa and did 20 circles with pressure followed by 20 with pressure x-strokes then went to 8 k did 40 circles ( weight of blade only ) followed by ten x-strokes ( weight only ) then did 10 x-strokes on 12k Naniwa and now bevel is smooth and no more jagged edge ( yay ). Thanks all you fine gents on here you are all the best.
If you had micro-chip, fuzz, a 12k super stone can easily take them out.
Put one layer of tape on the spine and do 1 set of 20 circles on each side and 20 X laps with weight of the blade pressure.
Look at the edge straight down to see if there are any shiny spots, If not strop on linen 20 laps with very lite pressure and 50 on leather with lite pressure. Excessive pressure probably caused your mico-chipping.
If there are shiny spots, do another set of 20 circles and X laps.
The 12K super stone is a very aggressive stone, take a look at this thread taking a razor from breadknife to shave in 80 circles and 206 laps.
Here.
Thanks Euclid I appreciate it and great post also :-)
This was a great question and for someone else in the process of learning honing quite valuable!
I appreciate sites like this because it not only is fun to hear about what others do and also to see that many people have similar interests.
What are the shiny spots, if I may ask? (not the burrs ,chips and such but just a shiny spot)Quote:
Originally Posted by Euclid440
I some times have a few near the toe end, I assumed they were where the metal is thin and could possibly micro chip later.
It is either where the bevels are not meeting, a chip or rolled edge.
Looking straight down on the edge and turn the blade a few degrees either direction, the light will reflect where the bevels are not meeting, no matter how small.
Attachment 196154
Oh I see..
I was referring to some thing els.. One of my blades the toe end dosnt seem to hit the finer hones so I add a little pressure or do what I can to get that tip on the hone.
That normally leaves bits that reflect light on the very edge, under the microscope its just a shiny spot .
