I came to this (shaving) after several years of hand tool woodworking and still do a lot of hand tool woodworking...a lot.
I started on synthetics and pretty much use just oilstones now, but from time to time will use a sythetic medium stone followed by a large irregular piece of okudo suita.
A dry grinder does 95% of the metal removal on a woodworking tool, so the fact that the oilstones cut slower per stroke doesn't necessarily mean total sharpening time will be less.
I budget myself a minute to resharpen a chisel and a minute to grind (which occurs about once every 4 resharpenings). I like the edge that comes off of synthetics, but they don't have the same longevity, imperviousness to damage, ability to stay flat indefinitely without any conditioning, etc.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Aa0pBnph9q8
(I am not advocating that anyone watch that whole long video about sharpening a chisel, I just had to post it as a request to someone who didn't believe that you could get a working edge off of a washita stone and they wanted to know what I do - sort of akin to what was said above about sharpening certain ways with certain stones, a settled in oilstone can't operate very well just rubbing a bevel over it over and over like you can do with a very aggressive synthetic stone - the method is a bit different)
I do the bulk of my sharpening, chisels and planes, with a singe washita iron, though - similar to above. What brings a plane or chisel back to the stones is different than a razor (chisels get chipped generally and planes lose cutting clearance from abrasive/adhesive wear on wood).
there are a lot of woodworking videos out there for new woodworkers that don't advocate much skill, use of jigs, etc, and that's OK to start, but it's not very functional for a woodworker to have to get out a bunch of machinery to sharpen something and then spend 7 or 8 minutes doing it.