just wondering if I can use a DMT 220 to lap my stones? I currently have naniwa 1000, a Norton 4000/8000 and a Naniwa 12000.... will the DMT lap these well.... should I do anything to the DMT before using it?
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just wondering if I can use a DMT 220 to lap my stones? I currently have naniwa 1000, a Norton 4000/8000 and a Naniwa 12000.... will the DMT lap these well.... should I do anything to the DMT before using it?
Is it an 8" plate ? For best results a plate as long, or longer than the hone is easier to get consistent results. That said, I've used a 325 and a 120 DMT plate. The 120 (XX) takes the hones down quick but leaves a surface that needs the 325 to smooth out some. At least I think it does. To the extent that I rarely use it.
I'm thinking you could use the 220 to get flat, and if the surface was too rough, try facing the 8k up against the 12k. I haven't used one hone to flatten/smooth out another, but I've read of quite a few guys who have done it with success.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ecormier
The 220 will flatten it out alright. I'll agree with Jimmy on the lapping plate being longer then the hone, I learned that the hard way... DMT 4C (tiny little thing) and i'll also agree that there is no doubt it leaves a rougher surface than the 325. That being said I use the 120 Dia-Flat exclusively, I remedy the roughness it leaves if using pressure by finishing my lapping with "weight of the hone" strokes. I like the feedback it leaves but that's just me. You'd have to test that out yourself but with the DMT DIA-FLAT being over $200 it's an expensive oopsie if you don't end up liking the feel of it. Get what your budget can afford.Quote:
Originally Posted by JimmyHAD
Yes the 220 will keep your water stones flat...
P.S. Jimmy I've never thought of using another water stone to smooth out another water stone. Wouldn't that contaminate the grits?
I'm looking at an 8"x3" and I knew it would flatten fast, I'm just concerned about the remaining surface (as has been mentioned) and it's about $100
I think you'll be alright like I said I use the 120. Once the 220 gets broken in it will be a lot smoother
That is what I use to lap my stones... DMT 220.
It sticks a lot, even under running water, which I find annoying. But other then that, it seems to do a great job with making the stones flat.
I have wondered that myself. As I noted above, I've never done it myself, but I've read a lot of guys say they have. Mostly natural stones to natural stones IIRC. I'm guessing someone who has experience firsthand will be along and clear up any misunderstanding on my part.Quote:
Originally Posted by S0LITARYS0LDIER
BTW, good idea using the 'weight of the hone' on finishing with the 120. I'll have to dig mine out and give that a try, just for the heck of it. I know one really good honer who likes a rough surface on his flattened hone. He was bummed when Norton smoothed their lapping plates and was looking all over for old stock.
If I only had one I would go 325. The D8C. Whichever you get, wet it, take a couple of drops of dish soap on the surface. Take a plane blade, a chisel, or if you don't have those, I've used a 12" Stanley Hurwood screwdriver shank, and rub the diamond down with that. Make sure to get the edges to knock down any upstanding divots that might leave scratches. BTW, the 325 is good for kitchen knives too.Quote:
Originally Posted by ecormier
Alright, I'm convinced, just pulled the trigger, now if I only knew what this mysterious prize could be....
https://www.facebook.com/theclassice...68267619885869
Please report back and let me know how it works out, and thanks for the tip about knocking down the peaks with a chisel!Quote:
Originally Posted by JimmyHAD
I have Naniwa Supers 5, 8, and 12k.
I purchased them through Shapeningsplies.com.
Their recommend lapping plate is the DMT Dia-flat 95
http://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/DM...e-P451C24.aspx
thanks, but that wasn't the question :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Scareface
I use a 140 grit plate to lap stones all the time, then smooth with a 300, plate.
The 140 gets to flat quick but does leave some rough scratches on the stone face.
If you have a new plate, lapping will break it in. I just run a carbide stone on the edges to knock down the corners.
I have used 1k Norton to smooth finer synthetic stone faces.
LOL...going after that prize from Classic Edge eh? Hope ya win!!
DMT 325 is what I use. Some people also use sandpaper to flatten out a hone. Sheet of wet or dry sand paper..... Low grit to start placed on a flat surface. Some use a 12 x 12 tile. If ya want it smoother use a higher grit...1200+.
yeah, I've done the sandpaper and I have a norton lapping stone, but it seems to cut slow on the 8000/12000 and I've never been convinced it was cutting flat (pencil marks on the stones show inaccuracies depending on which way I hold the lapping stone).
When you are using a lapping stone..... Are you doing varied sanding directions? Side to side.... Back to front.....Figure 8s? I usually will draw pencil lines on my hones a few times just to make sure they flat. Some people will say they don't even really bother with getting the hone completely flat.Quote:
Originally Posted by ecormier
for sure, that's the only way I can get my stones flat.... if I were to only go one direction with the norton, I would not have flatnessQuote:
Originally Posted by Willisf
Very true!
that's why I've preferred sandpaper, but it's messy and not as fast as having a nice lapping plate which is why I ordered the DMT 220... fro what I've heard they are very flat and stay flat
That should fine for ya. Do the pencil marks across the hone...and don't apply too much pressure on the hone.
Hello to All,
I bought a DMT 220 8x3 plate a few weeks ago.
I have used it to to lap a Shoubudani Asagi benchstone, and four Welsh slate hones (AJ & Inigo Jones), and it did a fine job of quickly flattening them.
Much, much quicker than using the 325 :)
A quick finish lap with my well worn DMT 325 8x3, and the surface finish on all the stones was excellent.
(I then progress these natural stones with 600, 800, 1200, 1500, 2000 & 2500 'grit' silicon carbide paper - probably not needed, but I do like the really shiny surface it leaves :))
Have fun :)
Best regards
Russ
Quote:
Originally Posted by ecormier
which DMT are you referencing?
This Coarse DMT is $60
Buy DMT Dia-Sharp, 8" x 3" Bench Stone, Coarse at Woodcraft.com
$60 USD is like $100 CAD. That's the crap I gotta deal with everytime I make a purchase from my brothers to the south. :rofl2:Quote:
Originally Posted by rolodave
Yes you have to grid the stone several times and lap in different directions, to get to flat.
I use a kid’s pencil one of those ½ in pencils with very soft lead that leaves a dark thick line, flat carpenter pencils also work well. Mark the stone and do one lap, then look at the stone and see what has been removed, those are the high spots.
I lap from corner to corner then top to bottom. Then re mark the grit, spin the stone 180 degrees and do another lap and look. If you do not do several laps, the slurry alone will remove the grid, but the stone is not flat.
Keep gridding and lapping until the first lap removes all the pencil grid, then smooth the stone face with finer diamond plates or low grit synthetic stone. A progression goes a lot faster, carbide stone also work well for smoothing a stone face.
The CKTG 140 grit, sells for 30 bucks and works very well. It is a thick heavy plate, and pretty flat. I have had mine over a year and done a bunch stones with it.
I know it wasn't the question!Quote:
Originally Posted by ecormier
Mine was more like a suggestion.
No kidding... I won it!!!!
Attachment 197894
https://www.facebook.com/theclassice...70538622992102
Nice, congrats :)
I am ammending my statement.
My DMT220 seems to be tearing up my Chosera 1K! Seems to work fine on my Ninawa SS, but leaves all sorts of scratches and roughness on my Chosera!
Going to need to find another way to flatten that one out I suppose... time for another thread, perhaps. :)
Have you thought about using a moderate pressure at first and then transitioning to "weight of the hone" strokes. I find that using those combined with back and forth strokes especially when finishing leaves a surface with no random scratches or roughness. I never use circles when finishing up lapping, only in the beginning. I use a DMT DIA-FLAT as well so that's an XXC. It leaves no scratches or roughness just a smooth surface, always worth a try. Hope it helps.Quote:
Originally Posted by Aldwyn
Its the plate. I must have hosed a section while working with a pesky W&B (all my W&Bs seem to be a PitA to hone). A new one is on its way... live and learn.
Aldwyn,
In my experience, all the DMT plates need a good break-in. This removes the 'high' spots and 'loose' diamonds from the surface.
I use a block of hardened 1095 steel for this - others have used the shanks of screw-drivers etc.
It doesn't seem to matter what the 'grit' rating is of the plates, they all need the break in.
My extra-extra fine used to leave quite bad scratches on my knives when it was new - scratches that were deeper than the fine plate left.
After a good break-in, all was well. Since then, all new diamond plates I buy get this break-in.
Have fun :)
Best regards
Russ
Thanks, Russ! I will have to remember to break in my new one. My old one, I guess, was broken in from lapping my stones over the past few months. And it did a fine job (as I reported earlier in this thread) up until last weekend.
After cleaning it with some Comet, I can actually see a discoloured spot on the DMT. My guess is when I was trying to get rid of the frown on the W&B I was working on, I started bringing up pieces of diamond, so now I have an uneven spot in the DMT. Live and learn. Keep my angles low on the DMT and get rid of the metal slurry often. :)
